Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 19 of 19

Thread: Finally got my car. Now about those brakes...

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Warrensburg, Missouri
    Posts
    11
    Thanked: 5

    Default

    I got a disc brake conversion kit from MK II enterprises. NOTHING worked and there was a total lack of support from them. They even shipped me a 58-60 system initially and of course that was totally incorrect for the spindle as they are built completely different. Once they shipped me the correct kit the equalizer valve would not clear the exhaust manifold. I did manage to install the discs and rotors but without the equalizer valve the balance was never right. The brake pedal swing arm had to be drilled to accommodate the new master cylinder and then the ratio was not right and caused a very hard pedal when braking. If you removed the vacuum assist line as would happen if the engine died the brake pedal effort was insane. I have to agree that if you properly rebuild the original system you will have more than adequate brakes. My only regret is that I never got a refund from MK II enterprises. They also kept insisting that I return the original drums and backing plate to receive a large core deposit. I did not return the original parts and lost my core. However when the future owner bought the car from me he paid to ship all of the original parts to him. I believe he went back to the original set up.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Farmington Hills, MI
    Posts
    3,887
    Thanked: 72

    Default

    I think many of us have similar stories.

    I do have a caution for those with stock brakes. Your rear brakes are mechanically activated by a couple of cables and levers. The emergency brake can be the only thing between you and a crash. Pay as much attention to the e-brake as the rest of the system.
    Barry Wolk
    Farmington Hills, MI

    C5681126

  3. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Barry Wolk For This Useful Post:

    Joseph Stebbins (02-14-2018), Roadfilm (02-12-2018)

  4. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Yellow Springs, OH
    Posts
    1,073
    Thanked: 397

    Default

    Says the voice of experience who lost his brakes during the Pebble Beach Tour d'Elegance ...
    John Snoddy

  5. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Farmington Hills, MI
    Posts
    3,887
    Thanked: 72

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jdsnoddy View Post
    Says the voice of experience who lost his brakes during the Pebble Beach Tour d'Elegance ...
    That problem stemmed from corrosion. The same could easily have happened with disc brakes. 3 of 4 front pistons had seized, even though I had done brake fluid flushing every 2-3 years. I think that adding only 2800 miles from when it was restored in 1994 started the process or rusting the cast iron cylinders. Over time they just seized.

    That's why I'm so adamant that you pay so much attention to the e-brake system.
    Barry Wolk
    Farmington Hills, MI

    C5681126

  6. The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to Barry Wolk For This Useful Post:

    jdsnoddy (02-15-2018), Joseph Stebbins (02-14-2018), rickswrecks (02-16-2018), Shelly Harris (02-17-2018)

  7. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    El Cajon, CA
    Posts
    1,088
    Thanked: 40

    Default

    When I was working on the brakes on my car back in the early 80's I tried to find new drums as mine were shot. At the time they were only available off cars that were being parted out. Has that changed? Is anyone producing new drums?
    C56-91291,
    1952 Ford F-1 Pick-up,
    1962 Chevrolet Impala 427,
    1973 Harley-Davidson FL

  8. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Farmington Hills, MI
    Posts
    3,887
    Thanked: 72

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Barger View Post
    When I was working on the brakes on my car back in the early 80's I tried to find new drums as mine were shot. At the time they were only available off cars that were being parted out. Has that changed? Is anyone producing new drums?
    There are machine shops that can re-line them now. My old Porsche had relined drums.
    Barry Wolk
    Farmington Hills, MI

    C5681126

  9. The Following User Says Thank You to Barry Wolk For This Useful Post:

    Bob Barger (02-19-2018)

  10. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Woodbury,CT
    Posts
    319
    Thanked: 159

    Default

    My 1962 Rolls Royce Silver Cloud II only has mechanical rear brakes until the car is moving (servo system running off the automatic transmission). It does have dual master cylinders and dual front wheel cylinders on each front wheel; a single wheel cylinder on each rear wheel. I typically use CASTROL LMA brake fluid.

    A nice feature is that the dual, brake fluid reservoir jars are made of clear glass and you can see the color change in the brake fluid. When you first flush and replace the brake fluid, you see clear brake fluid in the reservoir jars. After about a year, the fluid changes from clear to pale yellow, and then, if not changed, it will do to light brown and then dark brown. The change in color is caused by water absorption (brake fluid is hydroscopic), heat (from engine compartment, underside of the car, brake drums, etc), and small amounts of wear in the system.

    When I have the wheel cylinders and master cylinders rebuilt, I typically have the cores sleeved in either brass or stainless steel to minimize corrosion in the system. In addition, I replace all the standard steel brake lines with stainless steel brake lines. There are several companies that will duplicate existing brake lines in stainless steel. Of course, you need to remove the steel lines and ship them to the supplier. I see that stainless steel line sets are available on EBAY for the Mark II.

    Since brakes are so critical for safety and brake repairs are fairly expensive, I remove and replace all the brake fluid yearly. No doubt overkill but the cost is small and the piece of mind is large. I sometimes use a compressor driven, vacuum system to remove the old brake fluid while slowly introducing new brake fluid. I also use a speed bleeder on each wheel cylinder. It looks similar to a standard bleed screw but has a built in one way, check valve, so when loosened, it allows pressurized fluid to escape but closes when pressure is released. This allows me to easily, manually bleed the system by myself.

    Larry
    Last edited by lld; 02-18-2018 at 09:59 AM.
    Larry Durocher
    1956 Mark II C5601429
    1962 RR Silver Cloud II drophead
    2006 Ford F150
    2010 RR Phantom drophead
    2013 Maserati Gran Turismo drophead
    2015 Lincoln MKT

  11. The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to lld For This Useful Post:

    jdsnoddy (Today), Joseph Stebbins (02-19-2018), Roadfilm (02-18-2018), Shelly Harris (02-18-2018)

  12. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    El Cajon, CA
    Posts
    1,088
    Thanked: 40

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Barry Wolk View Post
    There are machine shops that can re-line them now. My old Porsche had relined drums.
    Back in the day we could have parts metal sprayed. I tried to get someone to do my drums but the all said hell no.
    C56-91291,
    1952 Ford F-1 Pick-up,
    1962 Chevrolet Impala 427,
    1973 Harley-Davidson FL

  13. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Woodbury,CT
    Posts
    319
    Thanked: 159

    Default

    When I decided to convert my car back to drum brakes, from a partial disc setup, I was concerned that I might need new drums. I was surprised to find that either someone had replaced the drums or the original drums had never been turned.

    I had heard of shops relining drums, as mentioned by Barry, but I has only heard of them replacing a cast iron liner in aluminum drums. I sent an e-mail yesterday to one of the relining shops,

    J&G Drum Relining, LLC
    Aluminum Brake Drum Relining
    McHenry, IL.
    815-276-2578
    Don Booker

    I received this reply:


    Hey Lawrence, Yes we have done the cast iron drums and the aluminum drums, We remove your old liner and install a new cast iron liner and cut it back to factory specks. The cost to reline/refurbish your drum would run about $345.00 per drum. Also we reline and Arc brake shoe to match the new drum liners and that would run about $63.20 per drum. Our turn around time is about 7 weeks and growing.
    Thanks
    Don



    I don't need to do anything with my drums right now but I feel a little better knowing there are options.



    Larry
    Larry Durocher
    1956 Mark II C5601429
    1962 RR Silver Cloud II drophead
    2006 Ford F150
    2010 RR Phantom drophead
    2013 Maserati Gran Turismo drophead
    2015 Lincoln MKT

  14. The Following User Says Thank You to lld For This Useful Post:

    jdsnoddy (Today)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •