Sorting out 2198

[Jack Bowser]

C56B2198 arrived yesterday by Gary Straight of Straight Roads. Great guy who handels our cars carefully.

I’ve started fixing all the things I’ve discovered that need attention. Generator is rebuilt with new brushes and berrings and new end plate to replace the broken one.

I’m at a loss regarding my gauge pod. It won’t nest down into the dash correctly. The mounting bracket Holds the assembly too high and there isn’t any way to adjust it. Also my turn signal bulbs and the low fuel bulb are good but do not illuminate. Any one have any idea what can cause this? I was running on fumes when I got the car so I felt the low fuel light should have been on. I filled the tank but it only took 10 Gallons so maybe I wasn’t low on fuel as the gauge indicated. Also after filling the tank the gauge only went to a little over half full. Do I have a bad fuel sender or bad gauge?

Turn signals work but not the indicators. Instrument lights work so I must have a good ground.

One of my hubcaps has the Center polished. Is there a way to put the lines back in? I’m wondering if a scotch pad with the hub cap spinning can do this.

My heaters are not getting hot water. Radiator level is up where it should be so I suspect either the heater valves are stuck or the vacuum control isn’t working. One side is getting a little hot water but the others hoses are cold.

Where should I start my troubleshooting?

All suggestions and comments are welcome.

[jdsnoddy]

Take each of the 40 individual wheel cover veins off. Paint or have the center painted black and then reinstall each vein
Low fuel light malfunction could be a faulty SIP relay located near the fuse panel.
Make sure your instrument cluster and related turn signal lights are well grounded.
You can research any topic by using the forum search box in the upper RH corner of your screen.

[linmk2]

First Jack, congrats on your acquisition. Regarding the heaters: The system is a combination mechanical/vacuum. The "Temp" control, on the center console, has a cable attached to it which leads to a vacuum control located in the left kick panel. The vacuum control has a constant vacuum source. When the Temp control lever is pulled, the vacuum control opens and sends vacuum to the two heater control valves for the valves to open. The more the cable is pulled, the more vacuum is sent to the heater valves. There are a number of things to check. First, make sure the cable is not binding somewhere. Next check all the vacuum hoses. The vacuum control is located in the left kick panel. The kick panel trim must be removed the access the valve. Even with the kick panel trim removed, the valve can not be seen, its inside the kick panel! If I recall correctly, the valve is held in place with two screws. Before removing the screws, make sure the cable is attached to the valve. If its not, the valve might fall down and be a real problem to retrieve. If the cable is in place, you can remove the screws (the screws are visible, not the valve) and lift the valve (don't use the vacuum line to lift) into view and check the condition of the vacuum lines. There should be two. One is the supply line the other goes out to the heater valves located in the engine compartment. If the vacuum lines look bad, replace them. Next check to see if all the vacuum lines to the heater valves are in good condition. If all the lines are good and/or replaced and the cable in not binding, start the car and move the Temp control down to turn on the heat. Remove the vacuum line that comes out of the firewall near the kick panel control valve. Place you thumb over the line. You should feel some suction. If not, the temp control valve is bad. If there is suction, then there is a problem with the water control valves. Hope this helps you.

[Jack Bowser]

Good info, I figured there had to be a vacuum control somewhere because the heat lever is mechanical. I never would have found the control valve without your help. I plan to replace all the vacuum hoses so I have good tight seals and good flexible vacuum lines. I’ll start by feeling the hoses at the water control valves before taking anything apart.

I’m going to have plenty to keep me busy this winter. Ha. Brakes also need some attention.

[Jack Bowser]

I’m talking about the very center of the hub cap where the circular lines should be. My veins and the black behind them is fine. Maybe I can use scotch guard or some other abrasive to get the circular lines back in the pointed center part if the hub cap

[Jack Bowser]

My light problems in my gauge pod were the result of a bad ground. Turns out the only ground is made when the pod mounting screws are put in the pod bracket and it’s fasrened to the metal under the dash leather. Hard to believe they depended on this instead of a wire ground from the pod to one of the metal parts under the dash.

Tomorrow I hope to get my new regulator so I can have a charging circuit. Then I’ll dig into the vacuum lines and heater controls.

[Joseph Stebbins]

Good info, I figured there had to be a vacuum control somewhere because the heat lever is mechanical. I never would have found the control valve without your help. I plan to replace all the vacuum hoses so I have good tight seals and good flexible vacuum lines. I’ll start by feeling the hoses at the water control valves before taking anything apart.

I’m going to have plenty to keep me busy this winter. Ha. Brakes also need some attention.

The temp control valve (Cricket Valve) is a real PIA to get to. It is used on T-birds so I would replace it while you have it accessible. Here is one on ebay - https://www.ebay.com/i/273520380037?chn=ps

[Jack Bowser]

I removed the kick panel and see the valve is behind another fixed panel.
It appears that those 2 screws are not captive and will be impossible to get back in if I remove them so I didn't remove the valve. Why they located it here is beyond any understanding of serviceability. It could have been mounted just about anywhere.

the good news is it seems to be working and the vacuum lines seem to also be in good condition.

the bad news is, once I got vacuum to the control and the heater water valves started working I seem to have a small water leak on the rider side.

I took the rubber boot off the blower motor and the heater core looks brand new from the top.

The 2 hoses seem to be nice and tight and there is no water around their connections to the heater core.

I assume the core is leaking from the bottom so I must remove it to investigate.

Removing the right kick panel and glove box looks terrible but maybe I need to do that because I want to get the radionout to service it also.

One thing seems to lead to another.

I just noticed my oil gauge is now reading Zero so I assume it has stopped working as well.

I will check to make sure the wire to the sender is still connected but I bet the wire to the gauge is loose.

The instrument pod is very tight to get nested down into the dash so maybe I pulled the wire off when putting it back together.

if I want to get my clock fixed I have to take the pod out again anyway.

[linmk2]

Jack, I've replaced my valve, so it can be done. As I stated in my first post, be sure everything is still connected to the valve, other wise when the screws are removed, the valve will fall down. If everything is connected, the valve can be lifted out. If you replace the valve and everything is secure to the new one, simply lower it back down in the hole to line up the screw holes. It took me maybe more than an hour to get everything to line up. While I vote with Joseph to replace the valve while it's accessible, but if you are a person with little on no patience, perhaps you should leave the valve alone.

Regarding radio removal, I posted something on that a few years ago. You should be able to use the search function to locate the post. You are right, not very much fun to remove the radio.