2815 Recent purcahse of a mark ii have a few questions

[Joseph Stebbins]

Let's ask the definitive question.

Does any one have pictures of an interior done in pigskin?

Does it have white laces?

[Pat Marshall]

the regular cowhide seats had no seams at the corners since they were cut from one hide. I wonder if the original pigskin seats were one hide or seamed?...and if so, where?
Pigs slaughtered for food are too small to harvest hides that large....unless the pigskin used was from full grown wild boar...but then it would likely have too many blemishes. Anyone know?

My opinion is that the "pigskin" hides were not actually pigskin, they were natural colored beefhides embossed with pigskin-like dimples. I agree with Keith about pig hides being too small to make a standard Mark II bolster.

Attached is a picture of a swatch that Lowell Domholdt sent to me. This is from a hide that Elmer Rohn gave Lowell years ago. Lowell isn't sure whether it's from a hide for a car with DSO specifications for "Natural Tan Leather" or "Pigskin" (There were three of each). Because of the dimpling in the grain pattern, I believe that is from a "Pigskin" hide.

I believe that a hide produced for a "Natural Tan Interior" would have the normal Bridge of Weir graining. This sample certainly doesn't!

So, I'm calling it pigskin until better information comes along.

[rfm45]

Lowell sent me a similar pigskin sample obtained from Elmer Rohm. Keith made an valid point that real pig hides would be too small for the large upholstery panels. I came to the same conclusion as Pat that it’s pigskin grained cowhide. Further, the DSO specifications differentiate between Natural Tan Leather and pigskin. It’s reasonable to assume the only difference would be the grain pattern; natural tan being approximately the same color but with the regular Bridge of Weir grain.

[Pat Marshall]

Here is a picture of 2815's current interior from the For Sale Listing by Exotic Classics, Syosset, NY

[Mark Norris]

I agree, my hood has just also been repaired at the hinge attachment points, there is a huge bending moment applied by the hinge springs in order to keep tht hood up. In fact the hood inner panel was pulling the spot welds out from the hood top panel, I suggest using a hood prop (stick with cloth wrapped around each end) when working on the car so as to minimise/remove these the bending forces on the hood inner skin.

[Joseph Stebbins]

I agree, my hood has just also been repaired at the hinge attachment points, there is a huge bending moment applied by the hinge springs in order to keep tht hood up. In fact the hood inner panel was pulling the spot welds out from the hood top panel, I suggest using a hood prop (stick with cloth wrapped around each end) when working on the car so as to minimise/remove these the bending forces on the hood inner skin.

I put the prop stick right by the hood latch pin so you don't hit the back of your head on the pin.

[lincoln mark]

I ALSO put a moving quilt, {you know the kind we never put back in the U Haul truck after we rent the truck} across the panel between the hood and the windshield. This helps in case you or the other 4 people that are helping you hold the hood in place lets it slid backwards.