2198 activity

[jdsnoddy]

Please note that the front bumper guards have been removed.

The following info is taken from the ebay link below:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/122757621161

1956 Lincoln Mark Series
1956 Lincoln Continental Mark11

Seller: jjon8738
Lic: AZ AJM0742
VIN: C56B2198
Mileage indicated: 48,650
“An excellent 1956 Lincoln Continental Mark 11 with recent new paint and all around Excellent chrome, Interior, Engine ,Tires and excellent driver as well. Rare Air conditioned equipped Mark 11.”
Offered for sale is my Beautiful 1956 Lincoln Continental Mark11, 2 Dr. Coupe with 48,650 Original Miles and a recent complete & professional paint job in Stunning and breathtaking Egg Shell White. 2 tone blue leather interior in excellent condition. Factory Air Conditioning, All power options,New Tires. Recent service and ready for the road. Showroom condition throughout and drives like a dream. These are very rare and low production cars with just over 3004 produced from 1955 through 1957. This is 1 of a collection of Classic Cars that I own that we are selling off for we have other interests we are going into. Offering @ below market value for quick sale. Please call me with any questions or concerns @ 602-538-9000 Jerry

[jdsnoddy]

Now advertised in Hemmings. All info taken from the link below:
https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/dealer/lincoln/mk-2/2131974.html
1956 Lincoln MK 2 for Sale

Location: Morgantown, Pennsylvania, 19543
Stock #: 744
VIN #: C56B2198
Mileage: 48677
Condition: Excellent
Exterior: White
Interior: Blue

Seller’s Description:
1956 Lincoln Mark II

The 1956-57 Continental Mark II will go down in history as one of the most elegant and graceful flops. Certainly not due to any awful mechanical failures, or nagging maintenance issues, but due to the fact that the original car was too expensive! Even the wealthiest elite, would have trouble justifying the cost of this highly appointed automobile.

Dripping with midcentury design elements, this 1956 Mark II has truly witnessed history being kind to her. The current consigner has babied this car, and it has retained all its original charm, and expensive options, all in working condition. One person's loss, mainly Lincoln's stuffed to the brim with options rendering it unaffordable, is another person's gain, in that not many these are still kicking around.

Exterior
The hardtop two-door coupe has been recently repainted in a beautiful cream. Door jambs are lined in solid shining chrome. The grille, as well as front hood ornamentation are all in excellent condition. The classic rear spare tire bump can be seen on the trunk, as well as the in bumper tailpipes, which GM would later ''borrow'' for the Cadillac, and Corvette. Clean lines throughout down to the single headlights within rounded fenders, and a hidden gas fill within the taillight surprise the driver when pulled away from the rear driver's fender of the car.

Interior
Sky blue tufted, stitched, and buttoned leather insert panels are framed by slightly darker leather surrounds and make up the bench seating for front and back comfort. A split bench configuration allows the rear passengers plenty of access to the rear seat, by folding forward individually. Sky blue and darker door panels are accented with a chrome control panel, and operates the windows, as well as houses the inside door handle, and the obligatory ash tray and electric cigarette lighter. The Jetson's retro styled dash contains all the necessary gauges in a field of stitched pattern chrome, and also includes an AM radio. Air Conditioning, Defrost, Air Venting, and Temperature controls sit in the console in the center of the front bench. Topping off the dash is a beautiful mint green steering wheel.

Drivetrain
An overhead valve V8, 368ci engine fed by a Holley downdraft 4-barrel carburetor, produces 285hp and is coupled with a turbo drive 2-speed automatic transmission. The final drive is 3.07:1, and live axles, semi-elliptic leaf springs, temperature-sensitive shock absorbers make up the rear suspension. Front suspension is made up of independent; upper and lower control arms with ball joints, coil springs, temperature-sensitive shock absorbers. Steering is power assisted and allows easy controlling of this large vehicle in the tightest of turns.

Aptly colored, this ''cream puff'' fully loaded, power assisted everything, presents in very clean, well maintained and cared for condition. Even down to the hood liner which is pristine padded canvas, this high option Continental is true upper echelon mid 50's postmodern luxury definition. A 60+ year old driver, can be taken and enjoyed immediately.

Classic Auto Mall is a 336,000-square foot classic and special interest automobile showroom, featuring over 100 vehicles for sale with showroom space for up to 1,000 vehicles. A 450 barn find collection is currently on display.
This vehicle is in our showroom in Morgantown, Pennsylvania, conveniently located just 1-hour west of Philadelphia on the I-76 Pennsylvania Turnpike. The website is www.classicautomall.com and our phone number is (888) 227-0914. Please contact us anytime for more information or to come see the vehicle in person.

Price: $56,900
Seller Info: Classic Auto Mall Inc


6180 Morgantown Road Morgantown, PA 19543 | 888-227-0914

[Jack Bowser]

Sorting out 2198

C56B2198 arrived yesterday by Gary Straight of Straight Roads. Great guy who handels our cars carefully.

I’ve started fixing all the things I’ve discovered that need attention. Generator is rebuilt with new brushes and berrings and new end plate to replace the broken one.

I’m at a loss regarding my gauge pod. It won’t nest down into the dash correctly. The mounting bracket Holds the assembly too high and there isn’t any way to adjust it. Also my turn signal bulbs and the low fuel bulb are good but do not illuminate. Any one have any idea what can cause this? I was running on fumes when I got the car so I felt the low fuel light should have been on. I filled the tank but it only took 10 Gallons so maybe I wasn’t low on fuel as the gauge indicated. Also after filling the tank the gauge only went to a little over half full. Do I have a bad fuel sender or bad gauge?

Turn signals work but not the indicators. Instrument lights work so I must have a good ground.

One of my hubcaps has the Center polished. Is there a way to put the lines back in? I’m wondering if a scotch pad with the hub cap spinning can do this.

My heaters are not getting hot water. Radiator level is up where it should be so I suspect either the heater valves are stuck or the vacuum control isn’t working. One side is getting a little hot water but the others hoses are cold.

Where should I start my troubleshooting?

All suggestions and comments are welcome.

[jdsnoddy]

Take each of the 40 individual wheel cover veins off. Paint or have the center painted black and then reinstall each vein
Low fuel light malfunction could be a faulty SIP relay located near the fuse panel.
Make sure your instrument cluster and related turn signal lights are well grounded.
You can research any topic by using the forum search box in the upper RH corner of your screen.

[linmk2]

First Jack, congrats on your acquisition. Regarding the heaters: The system is a combination mechanical/vacuum. The "Temp" control, on the center console, has a cable attached to it which leads to a vacuum control located in the left kick panel. The vacuum control has a constant vacuum source. When the Temp control lever is pulled, the vacuum control opens and sends vacuum to the two heater control valves for the valves to open. The more the cable is pulled, the more vacuum is sent to the heater valves. There are a number of things to check. First, make sure the cable is not binding somewhere. Next check all the vacuum hoses. The vacuum control is located in the left kick panel. The kick panel trim must be removed the access the valve. Even with the kick panel trim removed, the valve can not be seen, its inside the kick panel! If I recall correctly, the valve is held in place with two screws. Before removing the screws, make sure the cable is attached to the valve. If its not, the valve might fall down and be a real problem to retrieve. If the cable is in place, you can remove the screws (the screws are visible, not the valve) and lift the valve (don't use the vacuum line to lift) into view and check the condition of the vacuum lines. There should be two. One is the supply line the other goes out to the heater valves located in the engine compartment. If the vacuum lines look bad, replace them. Next check to see if all the vacuum lines to the heater valves are in good condition. If all the lines are good and/or replaced and the cable in not binding, start the car and move the Temp control down to turn on the heat. Remove the vacuum line that comes out of the firewall near the kick panel control valve. Place you thumb over the line. You should feel some suction. If not, the temp control valve is bad. If there is suction, then there is a problem with the water control valves. Hope this helps you.

[Jack Bowser]

Good info, I figured there had to be a vacuum control somewhere because the heat lever is mechanical. I never would have found the control valve without your help. I plan to replace all the vacuum hoses so I have good tight seals and good flexible vacuum lines. I’ll start by feeling the hoses at the water control valves before taking anything apart.

I’m going to have plenty to keep me busy this winter. Ha. Brakes also need some attention.

[Jack Bowser]

I’m talking about the very center of the hub cap where the circular lines should be. My veins and the black behind them is fine. Maybe I can use scotch guard or some other abrasive to get the circular lines back in the pointed center part if the hub cap

[Jack Bowser]

My light problems in my gauge pod were the result of a bad ground. Turns out the only ground is made when the pod mounting screws are put in the pod bracket and it’s fasrened to the metal under the dash leather. Hard to believe they depended on this instead of a wire ground from the pod to one of the metal parts under the dash.

Tomorrow I hope to get my new regulator so I can have a charging circuit. Then I’ll dig into the vacuum lines and heater controls.

[Joseph Stebbins]

Good info, I figured there had to be a vacuum control somewhere because the heat lever is mechanical. I never would have found the control valve without your help. I plan to replace all the vacuum hoses so I have good tight seals and good flexible vacuum lines. I’ll start by feeling the hoses at the water control valves before taking anything apart.

I’m going to have plenty to keep me busy this winter. Ha. Brakes also need some attention.


The temp control valve (Cricket Valve) is a real PIA to get to. It is used on T-birds so I would replace it while you have it accessible. Here is one on ebay - https://www.ebay.com/i/273520380037?chn=ps

[Jack Bowser]

I removed the kick panel and see the valve is behind another fixed panel.
It appears that those 2 screws are not captive and will be impossible to get back in if I remove them so I didn't remove the valve. Why they located it here is beyond any understanding of serviceability. It could have been mounted just about anywhere.

the good news is it seems to be working and the vacuum lines seem to also be in good condition.

the bad news is, once I got vacuum to the control and the heater water valves started working I seem to have a small water leak on the rider side.

I took the rubber boot off the blower motor and the heater core looks brand new from the top.

The 2 hoses seem to be nice and tight and there is no water around their connections to the heater core.

I assume the core is leaking from the bottom so I must remove it to investigate.

Removing the right kick panel and glove box looks terrible but maybe I need to do that because I want to get the radionout to service it also.

One thing seems to lead to another.

I just noticed my oil gauge is now reading Zero so I assume it has stopped working as well.

I will check to make sure the wire to the sender is still connected but I bet the wire to the gauge is loose.

The instrument pod is very tight to get nested down into the dash so maybe I pulled the wire off when putting it back together.

if I want to get my clock fixed I have to take the pod out again anyway.

[linmk2]

Jack, I've replaced my valve, so it can be done. As I stated in my first post, be sure everything is still connected to the valve, other wise when the screws are removed, the valve will fall down. If everything is connected, the valve can be lifted out. If you replace the valve and everything is secure to the new one, simply lower it back down in the hole to line up the screw holes. It took me maybe more than an hour to get everything to line up. While I vote with Joseph to replace the valve while it's accessible, but if you are a person with little on no patience, perhaps you should leave the valve alone.

Regarding radio removal, I posted something on that a few years ago. You should be able to use the search function to locate the post. You are right, not very much fun to remove the radio.

[Jack Bowser]

Pat,
Could you help me trace the history of my current one?

C56B2198? I know it was sold nrw in Denver to a Doctor, I believe who got killed in a motorcycle accident.

I don?t know any more going forward.

Going back, I bought it from A consignment place near Hershey,PA. I have the paperwork in my desk but am not there now.

The Consigner never titled it in his name so the title I got was in the name of the previous owner who only remembers that it came to him from a private collection in Miami. I was told that owner was a Colombian drug dealer in Miami so I didn?t think it was a good idea to look him up. Ha. If you have any other info, I would like to know.

[Pat Marshall]

Jack, please check out this thread.

https://www.markiiforum.com/showthread.php?9655-2198-1956-Kumpf-Motor-Co-Denver-CO-*OO-Unknown*-2021-Jack-Bowser-IL&p=53809#post53809

[Jack Bowser]

Thanks,

I did print ou these History sheets for the 4 Mark II's I have owned but was hoping there might be more info to be had.

Thanks,

Jack

[Jack Bowser]

It was a very hard decision but I have sold C56B2198.
I will be 87 on March 28 and decided I need to cut down on a lot of things I love.
I bought C56B1991 back in 1962 and would love to know where it lives now
I also enjoyed the other two I owned over the years.
I bought C56B2198 in 2018. It new owner is in Ft Lee, NJ and had looked at a few others before coming here to see mine.
One look and the new owner just had to have it so there wasn't much negotiating needed.
I have really loved these wonderful cars over the last 63 years as I know all of you do too.

I still see many for sale at half the prices they should fetch.
I got 6 figures for mine and I think it is worth every penny!

I have also enjoyed all the friends here on the forum who have always been happy to help.
Mark Noris has become a special friend even though we are separated by the Atlantic Ocean.
I hope to meet Mark in person some day.
Cheers to everyone,
Jack Bowser
847-502-3930
jbowz@aol.com

[Shelly Harris]

Jack and I have had many visits. His home is a museum for cars and old Bowser Pumps. Who ever bought his Mark has a beautiful rebuilt car.

Keep checking out the forum Jack... your input is invaluable!

Shelly