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davec
12-07-2009, 04:57 PM
Just joined your forum. I have been viewing it for a while though and think its great to have a place to go for info on such a great automobile. Mine was purchased new by my great uncle, Dr. S.M. Holmes here in Chatham, Ont.. Its a non A/C car and has only been repainted in 1980. I'm ready to pull the engine now, for transmission repairs. I was wondering if anyone has seen this done and can suggest where to "hook" on with the cherry picker. The manual shows a special engine sling that looks like it hooks on under the exhaust manifolds. I am thinking of using straps which I'd wrap around the manifold. Any input??? Once I get this computer thing figured out, I'll post some pics cause I know we all like 'em. Thanks Dave

Barry Wolk
12-07-2009, 05:10 PM
Hi Dave,

Welcome to the site. Do yourself a real big favor and disassemble everything between the fenders up front, that way you won't be dropping the engine on anything real valuable.

I've got pictures somewhere showing my engine and trans removal. I'll see if I can find them.

Barry Wolk
12-07-2009, 06:41 PM
This is what I mean.

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/barry2952/1%20Mark%20II%20docs/Picture0006-1.jpg

Do yourself a huge favor and remove your hood. The engine can be pulled without removing the hood, but it just gets in the way and makes it dar in there.

Do yourself a bigger favor when you remove the hood. Drill two 1/8" holes in each hinge flange. By drilling through the flange and hood you'll leave two alignment holes, otherwise you'll be fiddling with adjustment forever.

You might want to have your hood hinges rebuilt while the hood's off. They are riveted together. Those rivets are enormous stress when the hood is closed as the joint is under the full pressure of fully extended gigantic hood springs. Do not attempt to rebuild these yourself as the spring is under a lot of pressure even when it at its retracted state. You will very quickly see that there are elongated holes at the riveted joints. This is the main cause for the rear edge of the hood sticking up.

This was the suspension method used. Be cautious that the weight shifts considerably when the trans comes off. Mine took a considerable shift but the chains held.

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/barry2952/1%20Mark%20II%20docs/Picture0007.jpg

davec
12-07-2009, 07:08 PM
Hi Barry and thanks for the tips. I have the hood off and its been drilled. I'll check the rivets. I don't have the grill off...........manual didn't say to. Maybe I will. It looks like you took out the 2 frontmost intake manifold bolts for the front hook. The back of my engine has an open bolt hole on theleft side and on the right theres a bolt holding a clip which holds some of the plug wires together. Maybe these would work??

depmike38
12-07-2009, 08:24 PM
:DI've checked at NAPA and they're all out of those blue fender covers

Keith W Colonna
12-07-2009, 09:58 PM
try Bed Bath and Beyond for the fender covers

Mad Scientist
12-07-2009, 11:56 PM
Hi Barry and thanks for the tips. I have the hood off and its been drilled. I'll check the rivets. I don't have the grill off...........manual didn't say to. Maybe I will. It looks like you took out the 2 frontmost intake manifold bolts for the front hook. The back of my engine has an open bolt hole on theleft side and on the right theres a bolt holding a clip which holds some of the plug wires together. Maybe these would work??
Welcome to the forum!:):):)
Ah someone else whose car has remained in the family. My father bought my car.

By all means follow Barry's advice, and mine;), and remove the front grill. Yes it is an extra step and it is sort of a pain, but that is a great big very heavy engine and one slip and it will easily destroy the grill, radiator, etc.

These are parts that you don't even want to think about having to replace.