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awags
02-16-2011, 02:37 PM
Hey all- I don't own a Mark II yet but looking into one to restore as a project. Figured this is where I could get the most information. So I'll be reading plenty in the next few months and I'll be sure to search before asking. I know double threads are annoying so yell at me if I start one.
I'm already a member of DMC Talk and Bigdog Biker Forums. I recently restored an 82 Delorean and own a 2004 Bigdog Mastiff. I do all the work on them myself. Other than the repair manuals 99% of information I need for them comes from the forums so I'm sure Mark II Forum will be very helpful also.
Any advice anyone can offer will be greatly appreciated and thanks in advance for any help. (If I buy one!)

Dan
02-16-2011, 02:43 PM
Welcome aboard, and good luck!
I joined in December, thinking it would take a while to find what I was looking for. Lol! I drove my purchase home last Friday.
In my short while on this forum I have read a ton of valuable information, and the advice here is generous and supportive.
You are welcome to message me anytime you'de like to talk, about my experience hunting for a MK2

linmk2
02-19-2011, 01:36 PM
Welcome. You have come to the right place for Mark II info. Hope you find your car soon.

awags
02-22-2011, 08:55 PM
Ok so I bought it! Very close friends of mines dad had been restoring it but was never able to finish it. A few years have passed since and talking with the family I was able to get it and I'll now finish it. He had most of it done,and the interior has all been reupholstered, looks gorgeous! But all of the interior is out of the car.And that is a lot of pieces.
He did a frame off rotisserie, new steering, suspension, engine rebuild, left no stone unturned, keep for life restoration. I have the humbling job of finishing it.
Since I didn't take it apart, who has the nearest car to Ripon Wi and is willing to let me come and take a couple hundred or so pictures! Mainly the interior. I can look online and figure out where pieces all go but I want all the fasteners, pieces, and hardware to be as from the factory. As close to concourse within reason.
Plus odds and ends like exhaust brackets, fasteners, Etc. Many pieces all over.
I'll post pics and #'s when I get it home.
Thank you

Dan
02-22-2011, 09:06 PM
WOW!
Congratulations!
I'm across country in the other Washington
Otherwise you'd be welcome to see it.
Good Luck!

Shelly Harris
02-22-2011, 09:39 PM
Ripon, WI is about 2 and a half hrs from Northbook, IL and you are welcome to inspect and photograph my car to your heart's content.

Barry Wolk
02-22-2011, 09:54 PM
Leon Flagg also has a very nice car in Milwaukee. Leon is a member here. Send him a PM. If he doesn't respond I'll e-mail him.

Mad Scientist
02-23-2011, 10:44 PM
If Shelly can't answer your questions then I also am in the area, just a little further south and west of O'hare airport.

awags
03-03-2011, 06:48 PM
Thanks guys, so far so good. I've been finding pictures online to match everything up. I've got doors and fenders aligned pretty good.
The right rear corner of the hood I'm having problems getting low enough. I've noticed a couple pictures of other cars with the same problem. Is this common? any ideas?
Got the new exhaust on, that went well.
Put new headliner in today along with interior window garnishing and trim, visors etc, went better than expected.
Bumpers aligned and grill installed.
Now a couple thing I cant figure out: The rear window outside upper and side trim- the rubber has butterfly looking clips in it but how do I get the trim onto that? I cant slide it because the trim moulding is curved. I'm thinking to bend out the clips enough to snap trim over it but I'm afraid of breaking the clips.
How does the chrome go on the drip edge? Pictures would be great!
Thanks for the help and offers so far.
Pictures coming I promise.

Barry Wolk
03-03-2011, 06:53 PM
That's called "Mark II hood". It's caused by the rivets that act as hinge points. The holes have elongated and thrown off the geometry. The only way to fix it is to take it apart and fill back in what was lost, returning the hole to the exact original location.

I think Mad did a pictorial of doing his hinges. Maybe he'll chime in.

I have no back glass on my car, so I'll be no help in your other question.

lincoln mark
03-04-2011, 08:43 AM
I have cut up a few Marks and I am on my third restoration. I will tell you what I have done, and the you can decide. I use to install auto glass when I was young, so for this, I know what I am talking about. The clips side into the chrome, then the chrome with the clips LOCK into the rubber gasket. For this to be done the glass and gasket needs to be popped out. You will see ths locking lip on the back of the chrome clip. Once you have the rubber on the glass, snap on the chrome trim, and every foot run tape around the glass, chrome and rubber, extra tape by the curves, to stop the chrome from popping out while working the glass back over the pinch weld. Put some lube on the rubber, set the bottom in first, use a cotter pin puller, to pull the the rubber over the pinch weld. If you ever do a windshield, set the TOP in first.
Drip rail chrome. Never, ever. remove, unless you enjoy a challange. It will twist, stretch, and then drive you crazy. BUT, since it is already off, make sure the underside of the drip rail has no paint build up. You will see the small lip the trim has to snap over to stay in place. Start at the curve, with 2 people pushing, [no pounding as it will dent] go toward the back first, then work your way to the front. There is a good chance it will twist and look stupid, that is not because of you, it is from when it was taken off.
I am finishing up my 3rd Mark and these are the things that have worked best for me. Good Luck, Mark A Maromonte.

Hal W May
03-04-2011, 06:49 PM
This worked for me. It sounds horrible but it worked-slick!! Not having the (been there-done that) wisdom of Mark Maromonte, I removed the drip rail chrome along with everything else during the restore-Never Should have Done That-Mark is right-it becomes one of the ultimate challenges-But-get it sort of in place and use a chisel and hammer on the underside of the rail-the chrome piece starts to remember where it belongs--and voi-la-its done and stays in place. You know you're winning once the lip on the chrome rail stays on the inside of the lip on the rail itself. Definately have a good and sensitive touch with the chisel and hammer-especially in the windshield area. Easy does it-and it'll work. Sounds gutsier than the experience!!

awags
03-31-2011, 12:24 AM
http://s1106.photobucket.com/albums/h374/aaronwags/
I started an album of car progress. Here is what I have done so far. The pictures are in reverse, Progress starts at the bottom. I'll repost as I add new photos. I just rebuilt carb and have top of motor off to paint everything correct colors. Paint needs buffing then exterior chrome can be added. Then on to trunk (believe it or not I have a jack in excellent condition and a bag in ok condition.
Thanks for all the help so far!

Don Keller
03-31-2011, 02:52 AM
Great job Aaron and I love the colors. It reminds me of the '53 Corvette with the red and white. The pictures will also help us in our work as well. I'm not surprised that you still have a jack. It's obvious that a trunk monkey hasn't been ratting around in that car.

Don Keller
C56R3838
Jackson, TN

Dan
03-31-2011, 06:38 AM
What a daunting task!
Great progress shots.
I am fond of the red background on the wheel covers.
My jack looks to have never been used, but no jack bag.
I look forward to your next series of shots.

awags
04-01-2011, 12:20 PM
http://s1106.photobucket.com/albums/h374/aaronwags/Album%202/
A few details yet to be addressed on the engine but pretty much done. Waiting for carb spacer plate because I broke the old one. Then I can get linkage, air cleaner, etc put back on.
Someone should start a thread with only detailed pictures for people to use as references!
Wish I took more before pictures to compare the afters.

Barry Wolk
04-01-2011, 12:24 PM
How come your flex shield stops several inches short of the manifold? If that's not stainless it'll be instantly rusted.

awags
04-01-2011, 05:30 PM
I don't know, thats the way they were. I'll try to slide them up but they're pretty stout I think. Thanks for noticing.

Barry Wolk
04-01-2011, 05:44 PM
You should be able to rotate them and move them at the same time. I used a device called a strap wrench to rotate them. It doesn't mar the surface.

They will creep down on their own if you don't put in a clamp at the bottom to hold them up in position.

awags
04-01-2011, 06:19 PM
Thanks. I just got them slid up, looks ALOT better. Thanks for the tip about the clamp.

Barry Wolk
04-01-2011, 06:27 PM
No problem.

Don Keller
04-06-2011, 10:41 PM
Hi Aaron,

Great job! I believe that you and I are both working on the same part...the linkage on the elbow of the air cleaner. My question is: Is the linkage supposed to be black or left metal color? Mine was black with the Mark II red primer, but it looked nice being shiney silver with the new black paint on the flat metal. I went ahead and painted it black, but it doesn't look right to me. This isn't a concurs motivation for me, just OCD. What do you or anyone else think is correct as to orriginality?

Thanks.
Don Keller
C56R3838
Jackson, TN

Pat Marshall
04-07-2011, 07:47 AM
Mine were all black and the Authenticity Manual says:

Air Cleaner - gloss black
Star Nut, attaching - chrome
Duct and Valve Assembly - gloss black
Flex Tube to Duct - black rubberized cloth, wiremolded
Flex Tube Clamps (2) - Cadmium

The picture in the manual shows the linkage and I'm inferring that's what it means when it says "Valve Assembly".

Barry Wolk
04-07-2011, 07:57 AM
The linkage on my air cleaner is silver-colored.

Pat Marshall
04-07-2011, 09:08 AM
The linkage on my air cleaner is silver-colored.

As I previously posted - Darn Near! :D