Barry Wolk
07-25-2025, 10:22 AM
The hardest part about working on a Mark II is working under the dash. In an attempt to lower the car the use of a perimeter frame allowed for footwells which allowed for lowering the seating, belt line and roof height. It was Ford's first departure from its ubiquitous X-frame. The design is somewhat flawed as it's a very difficult car to get in, and out of, if you're tall. Women say it's very difficult to get out of a Mark II in a lady-like manner.
I built a chain of CB stores and their installation centers. I trained the installers and moved on to a new store. Most cars under-dash area are much more accessible than a Mark II due to the depth of the footwell space. I'm 6'5" with 24" wide shoulders. The only way I can work under-dash it to take the whole front seat out so you can lie on your back and look up into the dash.
It takes me 10 minutes to create enough floor space to work comfortably.
1. Disconnect the negative side of the battery.
2. Remove the bottom seat cushion. No bolts, just lift up the front of the cushion to dislodge it, tip the back of the cushion up and brig vertical to clear the steering wheel and remove.
3. Remove each seat back by using a Phillips screwdriver to remove the strap between the seat backs to expose the pins that hold the seat backs in place. Remove the pins and do the same to the pins that hold the other side of the seat backs. With both pins removed simply pull on the seal back towards the outside of the car and the back will come free.
Best 10 minutes you've ever spent working on your car.
32914
4. Remove the 4 9/16" bolts under the car that go through the floor pan and bolt to the set frame. Remove the clevis pin and turn the mount around after removing it so you don't have to lie on it. There is one large red wire and 4 smaller wires that need to be unplugged. The red wire is constantly hot, the reason to remove the battery. Note that the seat has 2 pair of 3 holes on each slide mount. They are one inch apart. Only the center hole has a welded bolt in the center of the 3 holes. I simply made some weld nuts by turning them to fit the 4 forward holes and welded them in place. I gained an inch of leg room. I turned the linear actuator mount around to move the pull point. Using a long wire tie secure the linear actuator to the seat frame and the frame can be removed from the car.
I built a chain of CB stores and their installation centers. I trained the installers and moved on to a new store. Most cars under-dash area are much more accessible than a Mark II due to the depth of the footwell space. I'm 6'5" with 24" wide shoulders. The only way I can work under-dash it to take the whole front seat out so you can lie on your back and look up into the dash.
It takes me 10 minutes to create enough floor space to work comfortably.
1. Disconnect the negative side of the battery.
2. Remove the bottom seat cushion. No bolts, just lift up the front of the cushion to dislodge it, tip the back of the cushion up and brig vertical to clear the steering wheel and remove.
3. Remove each seat back by using a Phillips screwdriver to remove the strap between the seat backs to expose the pins that hold the seat backs in place. Remove the pins and do the same to the pins that hold the other side of the seat backs. With both pins removed simply pull on the seal back towards the outside of the car and the back will come free.
Best 10 minutes you've ever spent working on your car.
32914
4. Remove the 4 9/16" bolts under the car that go through the floor pan and bolt to the set frame. Remove the clevis pin and turn the mount around after removing it so you don't have to lie on it. There is one large red wire and 4 smaller wires that need to be unplugged. The red wire is constantly hot, the reason to remove the battery. Note that the seat has 2 pair of 3 holes on each slide mount. They are one inch apart. Only the center hole has a welded bolt in the center of the 3 holes. I simply made some weld nuts by turning them to fit the 4 forward holes and welded them in place. I gained an inch of leg room. I turned the linear actuator mount around to move the pull point. Using a long wire tie secure the linear actuator to the seat frame and the frame can be removed from the car.