Tubes on frame

[Barry Wolk]

I'm a pretty expert conduit bender, but this takes a mandrel bender. This wraps around the fuel/vacuum pump. You might want to try and locate a direct replacement.

This is the same size as 1/2" EMT (electrical metallic tubing) which has a similar zinc finish, inside and out.

[JohnC]

I'm a pretty expert conduit bender, but this takes a mandrel bender. This wraps around the fuel/vacuum pump. You might want to try and locate a direct replacement.

This is the same size as 1/2" EMT (electrical metallic tubing) which has a similar zinc finish, inside and out.

That pipe look awesome.. Did you bend that one?..I recongnize this tube since it's the only one still attached to the water pump in my car but nothing attached on the other end. So can all the tubes be made from EMT??..this looks like this would be the toughest one to bend

[Mark Norris]

Here are a few photos of the brass and steel fittings in place and the steel pipes etc.

Layout.jpg

Brass 90 degree fitting connecting the passenger side heater matrix to the suction side of the water pump;

Passenger.jpg

The steel pipe running from the outlet of the passenger side heater matrix to the suction side of the water pump;

Passenger 3.jpg

The steel fitting (unobtainable) connecting the short steel pipe from vacuum valve to the passenger side cylinder head, this is where the passenger side heater matrix is fed from;

Passenger (2).jpg

The other end of the short steel pipe on the passenger side has the vacuum operated water valve to feed the heater matrix on that side (note the brass hex union half fixed (silver soldered?) to the end of the steel pipe ..they come as one item);

valve.jpg

The drivers side is a lot more difficult to photograph because the air box ducting gets in the way. There is a 90 degree brass fitting below the steering pump screwed into the back of the water pump (suction side) and this connects the long complex shaped steel tube in Barry's photo in the previous post to the pump. At the other end of this pipe there is a heater hose that connects it to the outlet of the driver's side heater matrix.

The inlet to this heater matrix is fed from another 90 degree brass fitting on the driver's side cylinder head connected to a medium length steel pipe then onto the driver's side vacuum valve (you can just see it on the left of the photo), then by rubber hose to the inlet of the heater matrix. You can see this steel pipe running alongside the exhaust header in the following photo;

driver 1.jpg

If you go down the route of making your own steel pipes then you'll need the union nuts, available from several suppliers like this one (be careful on alignment when screwing them in because they cross thread pretty easily);

pipe flare nut.jpg

The steel fitting on the passenger side is unobtainable (please someone prove me wrong) but to can get a brass version but it would need re-machining to change the 1/2" NPT to 3/8" NPT assuming the ID was small enough to do that (otherwise you'll need to add a 1/2" NPT female to 3/8" NPT male (not pretty since the overall fitting will be quite long));

Brass fitting instead of steel.jpg

...you'll save yourself a lot of hassle if you simply find you can buy a set of second hand steel pipes from Jack R. at MarkII Enterprises or Old Lincoln etc.

[Barry Wolk]

...you'll save yourself a lot of hassle if you simply find you can buy a set of second hand steel pipes from Jack R. at MarkII Enterprises or Old Lincoln etc.

Absolutely concur.

However, my machine shop has made very similar flared fittings for me over the years. They are so simple a device that the CNC programming time would be negligible. I can get a quote if you can't find them.

John, here's a photo of the pipes on the frame for your reference.

IMG_3155.jpg

Also, Mark, do you know the builder of the Droop-Snoot Jag tribute car?

Mark, do you know the specifics of the flare angles?

[JohnC]

Here are a few photos of the brass and steel fittings in place and the steel pipes etc.

Layout.jpg

Brass 90 degree fitting connecting the passenger side heater matrix to the suction side of the water pump;

Passenger.jpg

The steel pipe running from the outlet of the passenger side heater matrix to the suction side of the water pump;

Passenger 3.jpg

The steel fitting (unobtainable) connecting the short steel pipe from vacuum valve to the passenger side cylinder head, this is where the passenger side heater matrix is fed from;

Passenger (2).jpg

The other end of the short steel pipe on the passenger side has the vacuum operated water valve to feed the heater matrix on that side (note the brass hex union half fixed (silver soldered?) to the end of the steel pipe ..they come as one item);

valve.jpg

The drivers side is a lot more difficult to photograph because the air box ducting gets in the way. There is a 90 degree brass fitting below the steering pump screwed into the back of the water pump (suction side) and this connects the long complex shaped steel tube in Barry's photo in the previous post to the pump. At the other end of this pipe there is a heater hose that connects it to the outlet of the driver's side heater matrix.

The inlet to this heater matrix is fed from another 90 degree brass fitting on the driver's side cylinder head connected to a medium length steel pipe then onto the driver's side vacuum valve (you can just see it on the left of the photo), then by rubber hose to the inlet of the heater matrix. You can see this steel pipe running alongside the exhaust header in the following photo;

driver 1.jpg

If you go down the route of making your own steel pipes then you'll need the union nuts, available from several suppliers like this one (be careful on alignment when screwing them in because they cross thread pretty easily);

pipe flare nut.jpg

The steel fitting on the passenger side is unobtainable (please someone prove me wrong) but to can get a brass version but it would need re-machining to change the 1/2" NPT to 3/8" NPT assuming the ID was small enough to do that (otherwise you'll need to add a 1/2" NPT female to 3/8" NPT male (not pretty since the overall fitting will be quite long));

Brass fitting instead of steel.jpg

...you'll save yourself a lot of hassle if you simply find you can buy a set of second hand steel pipes from Jack R. at MarkII Enterprises or Old Lincoln etc.

Thank you amazing info...the one complex piece of tubing is the only one still connected to the car

[JohnC]

So.. I found a plug on the drivers side where the tube should be and located the one on the passenger side....it has a wire coming out if it...huh?...why? The other end wasnt connected to anything....what are people thinking?

20220312_113007.jpg passenger side from the top

20220312_113151.jpg passenger side from under the manifold

[Barry Wolk]

Looks like a temp sensor. It is in hot water. This is all very interesting. The good thing is that it appears reversible.

[Roger Zimmermann]

As I needed a lot of pictures during the construction of the Mark II scale motor, I just selected 3 which may help. Other pictures are available.

Fuel pump.jpg Heater tube2.jpg Painted engine.jpg

[Mark Norris]

Mark, do you know the specifics of the flare angles?

I have a new flare nut so I should be able to measure the flare angle from it, will take a look tomorrow.

[Mark Norris]

Looks like a temp sensor. It is in hot water. This is all very interesting. The good thing is that it appears reversible.

Agree, looks like a prior owner just screwed in anything they could find that fitted 3/8" NPT.