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| Technical Discussion Member discussion on specific tech stuff, such as brakes, engine, air conditioning, etc. |

09-02-2009, 02:16 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Rosthern, Saskatchewan, Canada
Posts: 447
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Quote:
Originally Posted by depmike38
Supposed to be "slipperier" and create less friction like a synthetic I'd imagine. I tried a using it in a Yamaha Venture years ago with a wet clutch and it took three oil changes with conventional oil to get the clutch to work properly again. Under load it would slip in high gear. I've never broken down one of these old Continental engines. Do they have the same type of rod and main bearings as anything else would or did they do something creative?
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Same thing and design as many other engines. A lot of the way these older engines were built was carried into the 1980's. One thing that is different is the blocks were a lot deeper where the main bearings are installed and thats why they are refered to as a "Y" block.
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C56K3391
Two-Tone
05/16
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09-02-2009, 09:57 AM
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
Posts: 698
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry Wolk
The Continental engine was hand-picked pieces from the Lincoln parts bin. Nothing special. Thank goodness.
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Someone told me that the 368 was originally a truck engine modified for the Mark II.
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09-02-2009, 09:59 AM
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Farmington Hills, MI
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It was a truck engine to start with. It had sturdier mains. However, the Y-block was developed for all the cars, not just the Mark II. The Mark II was originally supposed to have a V-12, like the original Continental.
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09-02-2009, 10:17 AM
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
Posts: 698
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry Wolk
It was a truck engine to start with. It had sturdier mains. However, the Y-block was developed for all the cars, not just the Mark II. The Mark II was originally supposed to have a V-12, like the original Continental.
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V12!! Cool. Makes sense, even with the V8 and the length of the hood you still have room for a small underdeveloped country.
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09-02-2009, 12:05 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Rosthern, Saskatchewan, Canada
Posts: 447
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Started out as a 317.5 in 52 to replace the good old 336.7 flatty in the lincolns. A heavier version was used in trucks as an option as well in 52. Usually they install smaller harder valves, and lower the compression a bit for the truck versions(dont want pinging while working hard). Then it became 341 in 55 and then its last years as a 368 (56-57). Were also used in the higher end Mercs as well. As far as I can tell they are the same block, just a different bore and stroke. I know a collector who has a 52 Capri (also a mechanic) and I am sure he said parts interchanged, kind of like the 332, 352, 390 &higher
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07-28-2010, 06:05 PM
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: New York
Posts: 1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Henschel
After reading this I did alot of looking around with alot of varying opinions etc. I have never had problems(so far) but I have always taken a lot of care during assembly and breakin. I use the proper cam assembly lube (moly disulfide cam lube), and of course the proper fast idle speed during the first startup. Don't leave your engine idling and bring it up to the cam manufacturer recomends. 2000 rpm is recomended to insure enough oil is splashing around to lube your new or reground cam. I also prelube my engine before startup so the lube system is primed and ready for the fast idle. Remember this if you are in the process of installing or rebuilding your engine. The majority of this flat tappet cam failure is during breakin. After breakin this problem is greatly reduced. If you are still concerned about the removal of zinc, use a motor oil for Diesel engines has been mentioned a lot as it has higher concentrations of zinc, and alot of Diesels still use flat tappet cams.
Check this out for cam break in YouTube - Camshaft Break In Procedure Video - Engine Building DVD
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Hi there, I've been doing a lot of research on zinc additives. Thanks for the link. One question though, haven't they taken a lot of the zinc out of all of the oils so the diesel oils don't have much more zinc than a conventional oil and have more detergents in it. Would it be better to just buy an additive?
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07-28-2010, 07:03 PM
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Administrator
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Chicago North Shore
Posts: 734
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I happened to stop in at Pep Boys on the way home and while getting other stuff looked at the zinc bottle that Gary posted. It has no zinc.... it's a zinc "substitute". From what I've read elsewhere I think you can drive a Mark II comfortably without it unless you drive long distances at high speed... then it might be worth using.
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Shelly
C56C2292
'56 Continental Mark II
'74 Lincoln Continental Mark IV
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07-30-2010, 03:53 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Rosthern, Saskatchewan, Canada
Posts: 447
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shelly Harris
I happened to stop in at Pep Boys on the way home and while getting other stuff looked at the zinc bottle that Gary posted. It has no zinc.... it's a zinc "substitute". From what I've read elsewhere I think you can drive a Mark II comfortably without it unless you drive long distances at high speed... then it might be worth using.
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Actually the long distance high speed is alot better than stop and start and idling around. Your cam, valve train etc. get much better lubrication due to more oil splashing around in your engine. Your camshaft is lubricated by oil flying off of the big end of your connecting rod. Some engines have a tiny hole drilled in the rod for more oil spray. This is why you should never leave your engine idling slow during first time startup when you install a new camshaft.
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Two-Tone
05/16
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