Keep in mind that the motors are directional. FDU19805-A is counter clockwise for the RH side and -B for the LH side.
Keep in mind that the motors are directional. FDU19805-A is counter clockwise for the RH side and -B for the LH side.
Barry Wolk
Farmington Hills, MI
C5681126
Thanks for your response. I'd really like to find both clockwise and counter-clockwise for the front..
Are the rear motors different than the front ones?
C.J. Larrick
An explanation for 3 wires on the electric motors is one of the wires is a power shunt wire. It was supposed to give the motor a constant, stand alone voltage to steadily run it instead of relying on the two wires ran through a switch and forcing the switch to carry an electrical load. The shunt wired motor was kind of an industry standard for all Ford products well into the 1960s. On that note, you might hit paydirt with a replacement from a T bird parts house if you compare it to your old motor.
Morgan Milstead
C5691157
They are wired the same, they're on the same circuit. I assume they are the same. Are you sure yours don't work? It could be a bad fan control switch on the console. If you read the Lowell Domholt report he addresses the frequent failure of the switch. Are you bearings bad?
Barry Wolk
Farmington Hills, MI
C5681126
Sometimes a little bit of oil is doing wonders as I experienced it yesterday on a heater motor I'm never using.
Roger
Mine are in pieces, deteriorated wiring for sure, and I don't know what else. I would like to learn how to rebuild them, but at the same time also want to find replacements.
I have a couple non-operating seat and window motors. I'll try whacking and oiling them as suggested.
C.J. Larrick
I've not had much luck rebuilding them, myself. If memory serves me you can only oil one end of the motor. It has to come apart to oil the other end. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm led to believe that lubricants (grease especially) has a mineral component and a petroleum derivative that evaporates over time basically leaving you with clay. I've also had a problem replacing brushes as the soldering process leaves the normally flexible wire lead too rigid. Also, the spiral-ground shafts raise a burr that wrecks the bore in the gear box it goes into. Hoe ro you remove the burr before removing the shaft.
There is a combining of wires that makes the motors run. It's common for all Ford motors. I just don't remember what it is. It would be helpful if someone posted a tutorial on testing motors out of the car.
Barry Wolk
Farmington Hills, MI
C5681126