Salvaging the Door Biscuit Panels

[Pat Marshall]

I'm still working on it. I want to use the steel prototype on a trashed (and really unsalvageable) panel from another one of my cars. So, I'm trying to straighten that one up enough to use. The prototype fits the holes in the doors perfectly. Once I get it installed on the bad panel and can snap it in place, I'll have my supplier make a couple in stainless and then I'll try it on 3610's panels. Then, it will be game on!

Multi-tasking bogs me down, sometimes.

[5219]

Not to show my ignorance, but what is the door panel insert fix?

[Pat Marshall]

Check the posts that appear in this thread between #51 and #73. I'm trying to replicate the way Barry salvaged the biscuit door panels. If this works out I'll have these laser cut in stainless and available for others.

[Pat Marshall]

It Worked!

The door panel I used was really trashed from water damage. It took quite a lot to get it reshaped (trimmed, glued, pressed etc.) to a starting point. I used trim adhesive to glue the plate to the back, which aligned perfectly with the holes in the door, put the fasteners in and it snapped right into place.

As you can see the panel is still rough, but it's in place with no screws. A big thanks to Barry Wolk for his guidance on this!

Next step, I'll have four - "Pre-Production" ones laser-cut in stainless steel, and use them for the four door panels in 1494 and 3610.

It Worked.jpg

[Barry Wolk]

You're welcome. The stainless just has to be stronger than the cardboard. Any unnecessary thickness just adds to the thickness of the panel.

The key to the success of this is using the same adhesive to glue down the dogleg seals. They didn't do a very good job at the factory. Bill Miller convinced me to install the seal, mark the edges with a thin sharpie and then do an accurate job of taping the outline, as adhesive will ooze out onto the paint. Using a sharp blade on the excess allows it to be peeled off without cutting all the way through to the paint. You don't want to breach the paint there.

I was not able to find anything that got the leather to stretch to it's original shape. I say the gloved would have fit had they been moisturized.

Frankly, the panel is trapped, top and bottom, and, it's held by a screw on the end, kind of overkill to add the clips. I'm not bashing, but overbuilt is not always better built.

[Pat Marshall]

Frankly, the panel is trapped, top and bottom, and, it's held by a screw on the end, kind of overkill to add the clips. I'm not bashing, but overbuilt is not always better built.

I have three Mark IIs (6 panels) none have screws - all panels have 3 clips forward and 1 aft. I'm probably missing something, I do that a lot. Where are the screws located?

[Barry Wolk]

Very near the front of the panel on the downward curve. 2 of 3 I have had here in the last year have had it. They may have been added when they first curled. Look on the door in that area for a small hole.

[Pat Marshall]

I did, I looked at all six doors of my 3 cars, none have drilled holes in neither the doors nor the biscuit panels.


Panel Clip Holes-1.jpgPanel Clip Holes-2.jpg

It looks like the four clips (three in the front and 1 in the rear) were the sole means of attaching the biscuit panels to the door. The window garnish moldings and the lower door panels overlapped the biscuit panels after they were attached to the door.

[Pat Marshall]

I finally got them from the machine shop!

Panel Repair Plates.jpg

Now the fun begins!

[Barry Wolk]

Bill Miller's car.

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My car. Both early cars. They may have dispensed with the fastener on later cars.

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