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Thread: Hubcaps, wheels, and tires

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Albuquerque
    Posts
    9

    Default Hubcaps, wheels, and tires

    Hi All,
    First forgive me as I am new to the Forum. I have looked through all threads to get my answers. Definitely there have been posts on the hubcaps and tips on keeping them in place.

    1. I saw that drilling two sheet metal screws at opposing sides of the hubcap into the wheel is the best way to keep them on the wheel. But...aren't you risking an air leak when drilling into the wheel?

    2. I have purchased radial tires from Coker and have mounted them on the original wheels after I had them powder coated. The gentleman I purchased the car from expressed concern that the original wheels couldn't handle the radials. Could that be true? My tire person said the ride would be smoother with the radials than the old biased tire. Any feedback would be appreciated.

    3. I recently bought a radio from a company that specializes in retrofitting for the opening in the dash. It is advanced in that it is AM/FM, digital, USB port, Bluetooth, etc etc. Needless to say it lacks the aesthetics of the original face with the town/country bar, heavy chrome, stylish profile. My mechanic has been working on the original radio trying to get it to work. We have purchased manuals, a parts radio, new transformer (wasn't correct and therefore useless). Would I be better off putting the original back in the dash and just feeding off it's power, putting a new tuner in the glove box?
    Gary Rieves Peterson
    C56F3051

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Aberdeen, Scotland UK
    Posts
    549

    Default

    For 1. This involves 2 set screws (ie. parallel threaded machine screws of approx 4mm diameter and 50mm long). The (threaded) holes are made in the side wheel body and not into the tire seating area. The wheel covers on my car are secured this way (its the most secure method but if you have un-drilled wheel covers its a pity to modify them). This is only one of several ways members have come up with, more details on page 7 and 8 of;

    https://www.markiiforum.com/showthre...ghlight=hubcap

    For 2. I had original steel wheels with Coker radials on my car. The wisdom was that the original steel wheels were not stiff enough for the forces coming through a radial tire so I switched to modern replacement steel wheels from the recommended manufacture. I noticed no difference whatsoever to handling or noise etc. Don't bother switching is my personal experience based recommendation. Others may/will disagree.
    Last edited by Mark Norris; 10-05-2021 at 02:08 PM.
    Mark Norris
    C56G3186
    1963 Aston Martin DB4 Series V Vantage
    1951 C-type Jaguar (alloy replica)
    1934 Lagonda M45 Tourer

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Phoenix Az
    Posts
    412

    Default

    Barry should be along shortly lol
    Morgan Milstead
    C5691157

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Farmington Hills, MI
    Posts
    4,580

    Default

    People drill into the wheel center not the rim itself. Get rid of the original wheels or you'll be chasing wheel covers forever. Hub caps are different animals. They only cover the hub, like Baby Moons.

    New wheels solve the sidewall flex problem because the rim of the wheel is thicker. That makes the wheel covers tougher to install because the ID of the rim is slightly smaller. but they grab better. Also, you need all-metal valve stems covered by a piece of fuel line to act as a separator between the wheel cover and the stem. If you use rubber stems your looking for a trip with roadside assistance. The wheel covers creep, bending the rubber valve stem over so hard they break, or pop a wheel cover. New wheels are inexpensive compared to a wheel cover. I wouldn't drill a hole in a Mark II cover if I didn't have to, and you don't. I used to lose my covers all the time. Only lost one in 15,000 miles, and that was my fault for letting the tire shop use stick-on-weights that were too wide.

    Do a search. We've discussed this many times. People that go with my suggestion are quite pleased.

    FYI, there are better choices than Coker.
    Barry Wolk
    Farmington Hills, MI

    C5681126

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Farmington Hills, MI
    Posts
    4,580

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Milsteads Garage View Post
    Barry should be along shortly lol

    Am I not giving sound advice?
    Barry Wolk
    Farmington Hills, MI

    C5681126

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Yellow Springs, OH
    Posts
    2,690

    Default

    Barry:
    An attempt at humor.
    I would characterize your advice as: solid, seasoned, sage, sound, resounding. Keep it up Barry; we love you, man.
    Best regards,
    John
    John Snoddy

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Phoenix Az
    Posts
    412

    Default

    100% you are giving sound advice. It’s why I said you should be along any minute. I follow your advice on this subject even.
    Morgan Milstead
    C5691157

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2020
    Location
    Hamburg
    Posts
    17

    Default

    I have removed vane next to valve steam and strait across from stem where bolt was removed from vane drilled hole installed large head self tap screw. then pushed vane back under screw for a tight fit. The car i put them on rolled around in ocean during Hurricane Sandy and caps still on car no holes drilled in hub cap .ck out car 1521
    Last edited by Vreeland; 10-06-2021 at 07:36 AM.
    Vreeland J Wood

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    West Jefferson, Ohio
    Posts
    14

    Default

    Barry, that was a compliment from Morgan, not a criticism.
    C.J. Larrick

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Albuquerque
    Posts
    9

    Default

    Thank you Mark for the advice on the hubcaps. A lot of effort but worth it as opposed to loosing a cover.
    Have a good day!

    Regards,
    Gary
    Gary Rieves Peterson
    C56F3051

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