Reassembling #3610

[Knickoliss Iv]

Glad you got it! I wasn't able to find the same size washers. Either the outside diameter is not correct or the hole is too big. I haven't looked beyond my Ace Hardware store though. The thing that started my trunk debacle was that one of the cotter pins sheared off and the pin that goes through the connecting plates worked its way out bringing the trunk lid slamming down. Make sure and use steel cotter pins since the softer aluminum ones might get sheared in the same manner by the washer.

[Mark Norris]

How about taking some thin aluminium sheet (say 18 gauge) and drill/file a square hole to make a washer shaped appropriately then epoxy resin onto the back of the board over the original square hole in the card. That should give something to anchor the clip to without the card standing off the door frame (the folded over leather edges are about 18 gauge too).

If you want to get really fancy you could peel back the leather and slip the "washer" behind the card then re glue the leather edges back down and that way the glue is not under any tension.

[Pat Marshall]

Mark,

That's interesting, I had thought about cutting a thin metal sheet to cover a larger area and then cutting rectangular holes, but I wasn't sure if the sheet could be attached to the cardboard. I hadn't thought of making metal washers with rectangular holes and then resining them in place. You may be onto something there - there has to be a lot of Mark II's with that problem!

Because of the stitching and biscuit padding, option #2, peeling the leather back, is way beyond my pay grade.

[Jack Bowser]

A friend of mine who restore cars including upholstery replaces the cardboard piece with sheet PVC.

It is totally weather proof and he can heat it and shape it and it stays in the shape he puts it in.

I don't know where he buys it but I bet McMaster Carr has it.

He made the door panels for my V-16 Hot rod out of it.

Thats a lot of work however and I'm betting the thin metal pieces epoxied in will work fine.

A metal piece aththe front of the panel where they tend to stick out a bit will also solve that issue.

How many Mark II's have a ugly screw in this area?

[Pat Marshall]

I decided it was time to put the rear window and windshield back into the car.

The first was the rear window which I had done by a local "Perfeshunal" which didn't come out so well. See first photo.

Unhappy with that my son and I decided to put the windshield in ourselves. We followed the Tech Manual instructions and also found a great YouTube Video. We were surprised at how well it went. See the 2nd photo.

I'm not sure whether we'll give the local guy another shot or do it ourselves. (This time around the clips and chrome trim will go in/on first).

My 6'6" 290 lb son did all the tough stuff in this operation. I was really supportive!

[Barry Wolk]

I used the string method? Did you?

[Pat Marshall]

I sure did! It went as smooth as silk. The only difference is that I used 1/8" nylon line instead of 1/8" cotton sash cord, because of nylon's lower coefficient of friction.

I used to think that putting a windshield in was really difficult. It's not at all. The hard part is disassembling and reassembling the car to do the work.

[Pat Marshall]

Monday (7/19) my local glass guy is going to take another try at putting the rear window in. Since I've used him over the years, personally and in my business, I thought I'd let him try again. I haven't paid him yet.

I can't wait to see his expression when he sees that my son and I have reset the windshield!

[Pat Marshall]

Well, my glass-guy came out and re-installed my rear window correctly, he also installed the SS trim first (like you're supposed to!)

[Pat Marshall]

Progress is being made putting 3610 back together. Brake Booster assembly and Emergency Brake are in. Headliner has been reinstalled - it looks great. Steering column was repainted and installed. Will post some pictures - soon.

We're following up on Barry's suggestion of making a thin support plate to attach the door biscuit panels to the door, There's a good ole boy about 15 miles south that does laser cutting and he's working on it. I need 6 and once he makes 1, and it works, he can make a bazillion. Does anyone need support plates for their door biscuit panels?

We're about to put the under dash back together. If anyone knows the sequence of putting it all back in, it would be (VERY) helpful.

Now a question - There is something missing on the under-dash plate with the switches. Attached are photos from my #1494 and #3610 - both have those missing. What goes there, please.