Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 16 of 16

Thread: front pump leak

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Dana Point, CA
    Posts
    23

    Default

    Thank you gentlemen for all your comments and thoughts.

    It will be a good time to cosmetically refresh the engine as well.
    Dave Gee

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Aberdeen, Scotland UK
    Posts
    552

    Default

    I have to agree with Don also. I'd never lifted a whole engine out of car before but with a suitably sized engine crane I did it by myself ..including putting back in. Its very heavy but its a simple job if you take it methodically and gradually.

    Personally I would avoid the hassle and extra work involved in removing the engine and transmission in one piece. Take the engine out then the transmission ..it'll be a whole lot easier and quicker overall. Remember to support the front of the bell housing before disconnecting the engine (I used a simply scissor jack ..easy to precisely adjust the transmission height when putting the engine back in!).
    Mark Norris
    C56G3186
    1963 Aston Martin DB4 Series V Vantage
    1951 C-type Jaguar (alloy replica)
    1934 Lagonda M45 Tourer

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Germany
    Posts
    569

    Default

    the removal of the engine/transmission assembly as a unit is much easier, when the grill is disassembled:

    CBB8A2FC-D69B-4662-A7E1-6DA18EA73647.jpg

    otherwise, you have to pull the assembly quite a bit higher which creates an unstable construction.

    To my mind you can attach the straps to the exhaust manifolds.
    Holger Klausing
    C56B1966
    C56C2503

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Aberdeen, Scotland UK
    Posts
    552

    Default

    Completely agree ...but with a normal $30 universal V8 lift plate attachment in place of the carb (which puts the hook and crane jib much lower than a sling around the manifolds) you can lift out the engine without either removing/refitting the grill assembly (about 4 hrs in total) and without removing and refitting/aligning the 90 lbm hood (a 3 person job). Plus you need to split the transmission from the engine anyway (less than an hour with the engine in or out).

    Tip: swivel the engine transverse before lifting it over the grill section and you'll be able to pump up the crane jib a couple more inches for better clearance of the sump over the grill.

    With the front bumper in place I had to have the jib all the way out on the 0.5 ton hole in order to get the hook to reach over the lifting plate.
    Mark Norris
    C56G3186
    1963 Aston Martin DB4 Series V Vantage
    1951 C-type Jaguar (alloy replica)
    1934 Lagonda M45 Tourer

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Phoenix AZ
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Thank you for daring to comparing this power train exercise for a Mark II with the comparable task for a contemporary FWD vehicle. For the most part, the demographics of the Mark II community (I'm 75) would have them nowhere near wrenching on a FWD vehicle. It takes a special kid of enthusiast to have bridged that canyon and have real world experience with both power train configurations. My hat is off to you.

    I stay young by doing heavy line repairs on computerized FWD Lincoln/Continental stuff too! The nursery rhymes were right: "When the bough breaks the cradle will fall and down will come baby cradle and all!"
    John Welch

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2020
    Location
    Erlanger KY
    Posts
    20

    Default

    There are no bolts on the inside of the bell housing going to the gear box only the 4 outer bolts. Thanks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •