What type of frame does the Mark II use?

[skewzme]

Is the frame of these cars considered a uni-body, or rigid frame?
I ask because a section of frame, or sub-frame, was cut on one I am considering for repairing and getting road ready. The owner, a 72 year old man, who has been tinkering with it for 20 years says he made the cuts because it was necessary to get the transmission out for a rebuild.
The cut was welded back together, but in a not so good way. The owner says this frame member that was cut is a subframe, and not part of the main structure that supports the car.

Now, I am sure many here will see this and say run run run!

And while I appreciate any and all input, I would politely remind you everything has a price. I acquired this car pretty cheap, considering what they usually sell for.
I am not a purist, and my plans for this car are to make it a rebuildable custom, as opposed to an attempt to restore it to original. The overall rust in the car is quite manageable, and it is in running condition.

I will post a picture of the cut later today when I can get it uploaded.

Again, appreciate any input. My hope is I can get this re-welded to insure rigidity. The rest of the frame appears to be solid with manageable rust.

Very much thankful for this forum and it's experienced members. I am sure I will need it as I begin what may well be a multi-year project.

[skewzme]

Here's a pic of the area in question... Framecut.jpg

[jdsnoddy]

You just purchased your car, 3943, from an automotive genius.
Which begs the question, what other damage did he do?
Good luck. John

[RL Chilton]

You just purchased your car from an automotive genius.
Which begs the question, what other damage did he do?
Good luck. John

HAHAHAHA! Isn't THAT the truth!

Tim, for what it's worth, that can be repaired much better than it it (and needs to be). But as John pointed out, you really need to take a very close look at all of the structur-ability of the rest of the car.

[Matt Cashion]

Be sure to have the car supported on it's wheels when the frame is welded. This way the frame is not distorted as it would be if the car were sitting on jack stands or frame contact lift. A 4 post drive on lift would be nice. One more thing-- Make sure to doors open and close properly prior to and during repair otherwise you'll never get them to fit correctly.

[skewzme]

Be sure to have the car supported on it's wheels when the frame is welded. This way the frame is not distorted as it would be if the car were sitting on jack stands or frame contact lift. A 4 post drive on lift would be nice. One more thing-- Make sure to doors open and close properly prior to and during repair otherwise you'll never get them to fit correctly.

Good advice and much appreciated. Doors open and shut very well as it sits, and I will take your well advised words.
To the others... yea, I was expecting some jokes and laughs deservedly so. I can understand why someone with a $75k + restored or original would make jokes. But the fact is, these cars are rare and hard to find. I figure any remaining cars that can still be restored should be. I hope at least some of you can understand that. Thanks

[jdsnoddy]

Tim:

Are you certain that you posted the correct picture? The picture posted looks to me, as if it is on the left front side of the car. The outer most rail. Looks like the control arm for the steering is on the lower right hand side. If your damage is this picture, I would NOT weld it. I would call lincolnmark and buy another frame or get another rolling chassis. It is difficult to tell from this picture. But if I am correct, this damage is significant and should not be welded with a patch. I would not drive this car; I would not let my family/friends ride in this car. (If the damage is as severe and I think it could be.) Good luck. Please be safe. John

[baron]

Sound Advise.

[goob]

Looks like there is also another large piece missing under there, which covers part of that elongated whole (slot) and runs toward the rocker area. Unless you are qualified and have the equipment, I would suggest a frame shop, like a shop that builds and repairs truck frames. It doesn't look like that serious a problem, I certainly wouldn't replace the frame, anything can be repaired and it will give you a good reason to clean up everything else on the bottom side!

[Don Henschel]

Quite sad to say the least, or should I say as sad as a baby crying, chop a frame to pull the transmission WTH! The engine and transmission are relatively easy to remove and my argument to common belief is YOU DO NOT HAVE TO PULL THE ENGINE WITH THE TRANSMISSION!! I have a 24 foot garage and there is a work bench that limits even this small space. I removed the engine while supporting the transmission with only the fan and radiator removed NOT THE GRILL and my shop crane has all wheels swiveling so I can move it in all directions making it possible to stick the crane in sideways (driver's side) slide the crane sideways forward to separate the transmission and then I lifted it over the drivers side fender and out! Next I unbolted the transmission from the frame support, slid it forward and lifted it out. If it is too heavy to lift out connect lifting devices to it and use the crane to remove it from the engine compartment or have the car raised high enough on stands and slide it out from under. Sorry for the "off topic" post but swinging wrenches for almost 40 years and having to learn how to work on these cars BEFORE the Internet has made me figure out how to do the most with the least amount of work without chopping a frame.