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Thread: ignition issues

  1. #1
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    Default ignition issues

    Hey guys, I have performed a lot of work on my car, new water pump, radiator re conditioned, 160 thermostat all new hoses,in the Florida 90 degree weather the car runs about 198 t0 200 degrees,
    Is this normal, I do have AC ad the car stooped running after 15 minutes at idle because the battery was low and not charging. Will take the generator to a guy to test the charging properties , new voltage regulator.
    Has anyone had a problem with this issue. When I get the Ac up to snuff will I have a problem with the generator keeping up with the charging issue>
    Do you have any recommendations. Cuz Vinnie
    Vincent Cashin
    C56C2571

  2. #2
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    Default

    If I remember correctly, the a/c cars take a higher out put regulator. Which one do you have?
    Mark A Maromonte

  3. #3
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by lincoln mark View Post
    If I remember correctly, the a/c cars take a higher out put regulator. Which one do you have?
    AC cars use a 40 amp Generator most all of the remanufactured ones are 30 amp. Have them check it. If it is a 30 Amp generator you are probably screwed as the 40's are becoming hen's teeth. You can get a powergen Alternator that puts out the proper amps.
    Joseph Stebbins


    c56j3340

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  5. #4
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    The most useful thing I ever did when researching charging problems was to take both my generator and voltage regulator simultaneously to an experienced specialized shop. They put the two components on a test bench and adjusted the regulator so that it was compatible with the generator. I had tried 4 new/out of the box regulators (some specifically sold as MKII compatible) and all had battery failure due to inaccurate charging.
    Now, even my Antique Battery cases (optima dry cel) reproduction batteries are working correctly.
    Having said this, the AC does create an unusual load so there is a contraption in the linkage which adjusts to a higher idle when the AC is on. You still cannot ride around in a parade for hours though...car needs to run at a higher rpm to keep battery up.
    K Colonna
    C56A1773
    C56B2131
    C56D2636
    C56C1917
    1955 Lincoln Capri
    1959 Lincoln Capri Sport Coupe
    1989 Ford Country Squire wagon
    1998 Mark VIII
    1959 Heinkel Tourist skooter 103-A1

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  7. #5
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    That contraption which is suppose to increase the idle when AC is on is vacumn driven and usually not functioning in our old cars. Rebuilts were sold at one time from Jack Rosen but when I last inquired not available. Mine is still installed on the engine to preserve historical visual identity under the hood..but it is totally non functional. The real fix to the issue discussed in this thread is to trash the generator and install an alternator which even at idle and ac running keeps the battery in fine shape.
    Shelly

    C56C2292
    '56 Continental Mark II

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  9. #6
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    Consider that the AC being on runs a terribly inefficient compressor that robs the engine of horse power and 2 circulation fans - quite a draw on the old brake horse power! I have not used one but the powergen alternators are supposed to be very nice if expensive.
    Joseph Stebbins


    c56j3340

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    rickswrecks (07-05-2017)

  11. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joseph Stebbins View Post
    Consider that the AC being on runs a terribly inefficient compressor that robs the engine of horse power and 2 circulation fans - quite a draw on the old brake horse power! I have not used one but the powergen alternators are supposed to be very nice if expensive.
    I have installed a powergen some years ago and it has worked well. It looks like the generator, a bit bigger in diameter, and only needs a battery wire. I eliminated the regulator but I guess it could be left in place for looks.
    C56-91291,
    1952 Ford F-1 Pick-up,
    1962 Chevrolet Impala 427,
    1973 Harley-Davidson FL

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  13. #8
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    I can supply the alternator that looks like a generator. It's a 1 wire alternator which needs the engine to be revved up when started to energize the field circuit before it will put out current. An alternator will only put out the amperage that is being used at the time by the components except for charging the battery. It can supply more amperage then the ammeter is rated for if additional high draw accessories are added to the system. If that happens, the ammeter could open up (fry) and then the car would be down as all electrical power goes through the ammeter first before it supplies current to the rest of the car. Worse case is it could cause a fire. The ammeter can be bypassed by jumping around it. A voltmeter should be used. The ammeter can be left in the gauge cluster for looks only. To use a 1 wire alternator, start the car. It will read 12 volts on the voltmeter - that's the battery voltage. Rev the motor up, and the voltmeter reading will jump to between 13.8 to 14.2 volts - that's the voltage the alternator puts out.
    Last edited by RODPARTS; 07-06-2017 at 09:30 AM.
    Jay Hillsten
    C56F3099

  14. #9
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    All good comments, Had the generator rebuilt it is a 30Amp with a 30 amp regulator. My AC dash pot does not work all of the time, I believe it is a voltage problem since I am getting 20 lbs of vacuum to the dash pot. best is to keep your foot on the gas pedal when running the AC.
    Vincent Cashin
    C56C2571

  15. #10
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    Default

    I would think one could avoid overloading the original electrical system with a 10 gauge wire added from the alternator output terminal to the battery side terminal of the starter solenoid and retain the original output wire connected to the alternator as well. Taping the additional wire to the original wire harness would maintain original appearance. There are a number of inexpensive cigarette lighter receptacle voltmeters available that are removable to monitor the charging system that will not alter original appearance if removed.
    Matt Cashion
    C56C2524

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    RODPARTS (07-06-2017)

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