Stainless Steel exhaust system

[Barry Wolk]

How much of a savings would there be if we could order 50 stainless steel exhaust systems? I've been bending pipe my whole adult life, and it's not rocket science. They have machines that will duplicate what we have, exactly.

Wouldn't you really rather have stainless? Any interest? Anybody know anybody in the business?

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/barry2952/1%20Mark%20II%20docs/exhaustsystem.jpg

[Nick DeSpirito]

Kepich wants $864.00 with resonators included.

Classic wants $775.00 without resonators.

If a person is going to buy a complete exhaust system, I don't understand why they wouldn't include the resonators in the package.

I had to replace the rear passenger side pipe (from the resonator back) last year along with the muffler and also the crossover pipe which connects to both sides for the purpose of giving the system balance. The S-pipe, or snorkle as some call it, had a tiny hole and my mechanic was able to weld it shut. Luckily, Brad Luse had both sides and crossover (NOS no less) in his barn and gave them to me. The crossover still had the original tag with the part number on it. I bought the muffler from markII.com.

Rusting is very common on the right leg of the Mark II exhaust system due to the thermostatic spring on the right exhaust manifold. It's located right before it connects to the front exhaust pipe. It's function is to hold heat for quicker warmups and the thermostatic spring opens the passage when it reaches temperature, but unfortunately it also holds condensation moisture on the right side too. I've seen some Mark II's with them wired open to avoid this, thus prolonging the life of the right side leg of the exhaust system.

[Keith W Colonna]

Hello Group,
I just ordered a complete SS exhaust system from Classic Exhaust....$900 with resonators and mufflers. It has everything he told me including the S shaped terminal pipes to exit the muffler. They also have SS clamps.
The advertise in LCOC magazine and are "guaranteed to fit".
I chose them because other sources advertised had negative feedback on a web search.
I drove with my current system as long as I could.
Question: should the flex tubing covering the exhaust pipe under the fenders stay shiney or should it be sprayed flat black to match the fender wells?

[Barry Wolk]

It's very easy to keep clean once you've restored it. Don't paint it. That defeats the purpose.

To keep it pretty you'll need some rubbing compound, an old towel and a toothbrush to clean the compound out of the grooves. Just used the towel and compound like you were polishing shoes.

Many sleeves were replaced with regular steel flex pipe. Go stainless and you won't regret it.

[Keith W Colonna]

Barry, I've used rubbing compound on a toothbrush before to shine auto parts...but then later it leaves an bad chalky taste in my mouth:(

[Barry Wolk]

Yeah, but it leaves you with mighty white teeth.:D

[George]

I am getting ready to order the exhaust system for my 56 Mark project, is there any negitave to using the stainless?

Thanks

George Procida

[Barry Wolk]

Except the hole in your pocket. It sure would be nice to look in my wheel well and not see rust.

Let us know how the install goes.

[Doc]

My understanding is that the exhaust system was originally all painted black (with the possible exception of the insulators). It would be tough to pay extra for stainless and then paint it if you want to stay really authentic. Someone suggested doing a conventional system with a black "ceramic" (i.e. high temperature expoxy) finish like you see on headers and many customs/hot rods. Of course, that would cost even more than a stainless system.

Rosen has indicated that a stainless system is undesirable because they are noisy, but I'm not sure whether that's from vibrations, cracking/popping as they heat and cool, or what?

[Don Henschel]

Rosen has indicated that a stainless system is undesirable because they are noisy, but I'm not sure whether that's from vibrations, cracking/popping as they heat and cool, or what?

Never heard this before but I have never had stainless before. All I could find was this mentioned at
http://www.matey-matey.com/exhausts.shtml


"It is worth noting that stainless steel gets hotter quicker than mild steel and also expands noticeably when hot. This means that after a bit of use stainless exhaust joints work loose so when cold the exhaust clatters and rattles. It is only once warm that the metal expands and the joints tighten that everything quietens down. This is particularly common on VWs as the sections tend to be joined with compression clamps rather than bolted unions. The expansion of the metal also means that an exhaust that sits straight and neat when cold does not continue to do so when hot!"

[George]

Barry I'm half way through this project, I dont have any pockets left!


I am leaning toward the standard steel tubing with a high temp paint but worry about discoloration with the heat. Any thoughts on that problem?

I like the idea of the stainless but worry about not sticking to the original equipment, our project is aimed at "original", as much as possible, i don't plan on using 4-ply tires.

Don and Pete - thanks for your imput.

George Procida

[Roger Zimmermann]

On my 3 cars I have a stanless steel exhaust system. It's effectively expensive, but I don't regret the expense. My '56 de Ville is running with that exhaust system since 1983 and, except some discoloration on the rear tubes, it hard to believe it's installed since more than 25 years.
The only negative effect: the cars are more noisy.

[Barry Wolk]

Is it because the stainless is thinner?

[Roger Zimmermann]

Is it because the stainless is thinner?
No, Barry. The wall thickness of my exhaust systems are more or less identical to the ones of a comparable system in mild steel. It has more to do with the properties of the metal: harder, thanks to the chrome and nickel. If you take a glass of wine and the same recipient made of plastic, it will not clink the same...OK, the comparison here is a little bit absurd, but you get the idea.

[Stank-67-98]

I tried the SS and as Jack said they sounded tiny---hollow, nothing was loose, so I got a regular set, very nice.

I have some NOS pieces with the labels still on them headers and s pipes?

If anyone is intrested l will check my storage.

[Keith W Colonna]

I've been waiting for the opportunity to post on the subject of SS exhaust.
I ordered my first set last year after doing a search for feedback on two suppliers who had advertised in a related magazine. The fit was pretty good except for the angle of the flanges as they are welded to the pipes coming off the exhaust manifolds. Also the flanges were incorrect even after two replacements from the manufacturer at no cost. So, I had some custom made at a local shop from SS for only $20 each and were welded at the repair shop doing the installation. The new SS was of a higher gauge than original and are difficult to bend during installation. Also the joints will not crush and tighten to become fume proof because the SS is so rugged. This is a good quality for the mufflers and resonators but not for the pipes.
So, for my next MKII I got SS mufflers and resonators but use standard steel exhaust pipes. This works better. I don't care about the rust or appearance under the car...in fact the rusty patina is authentic.

[Mark_II_Mark]

Buy the aluminized set at half the cost of SS & be done with it, permanently...

[Roger Zimmermann]

Buy the aluminized set at half the cost of SS & be done with it, permanently...
Permanently? I'm not so sure...If it would be the case, why car's manufacturers have now stainless steel exhaust systems?

[Mark_II_Mark]

You won't have to replace them in you lifetime, which is pretty permanent, I guess...

[Roger Zimmermann]

You won't have to replace them in you lifetime, which is pretty permanent, I guess...
It depends of the age! not the one of the car, but the one of the owner...In my opinion, an aluminized system is good for 10 years. As I wrote earlier, the system on my de Ville is more than 25 years old; it will survive me by a large margin.
It depends also of the use of the vehicle. If you do each time a minimum of 50 miles, the system will say thank you and stay longer in a good shape. If you are doing 3 to 10 miles on a regular basis, the condensation water will tell you thank you and will eat the exhaust system from inside!
My first car was an Opel Rekord, MY 1965. Contrary the the most Rekord of that time, I had a 6-cylinder engine and not the 1.7 liter 4-cylinder. I had to replace the rear resonator once a year. Sure, it was plain steel and cheap; anyway, it was anoying.