Town & Country Radio-Removal/Repair/Conversion

[linmk2]

The radio is not a joy to remove. Sort of like placing a square peg into a round home, but it can be done. I've done it more than once. From page 245 of the shop manual.

Disconnect battery.

Remove glovebox liner and the four screws holding the check arm.

Disconnect glovebox door spring.

Remove the four screws securing glove compartment door hinge to support.

Slide check arm from glovebox door.

Remove Glovebox.

Remove three screws at the left side of glovebox cover assembly. Raise left side of cover to gain access to right side of radio.

Loosen nut on right side of radio and disconnect antenna lead.

Remove seven screws that secure lower instrument panel assembly. Disconnect done and courtesy lamp switch assembly wires. Radio antenna valve assembly hoses, and remove turn signal flasher unit from bracket. Remove lower instrument panel.

Remove access panel at left hand side of radio tower.

Disconnect speaker leads at rear of radio.

Disconnect power lead and dial light lead at radio.

Loosen nut on left hand side of radio support.

Remove radio knobs, discs, and two nuts securing radio to dash.

Move radio assembly toward the upper dash panel to allow controls to clear holes in dash. Remove radio assembly through access opening.

To install, reverse.

Makes you just want to hum doesn't it? :D

I once had a list of all the tube #'s. If the tubes or vibrator are bad, those could be replaced by yourself. However, if the radio has more issues than just tubes, unless you have knowledge of electronics (older), then you might need to call in a professional. I had my radio repaired some years ago. In point of fact they had it for over two years! It cost around $500. It lasted for a few months. I hum now.

[Chuck Lutz]

Thanks Howard. That's were I saw it. :D

[Barry Wolk]

Typically, the only thing wrong with the T & C radio is that the old wax coated capacitors change values sufficiently to keep the radio from working.

Did you check for power at the radio? Do you feel or hear a buzzing when you turn the power on?

FYI, the power is turned on by pushing a selector button, not the volume knob. Does the signal seek work?

It's an AM radio so there's a trimmer adjustment on the side of the radio. It's best to use a plastic screwdriver in this adjustment. They are available at Radio Shack, as are most of the replacement capacitors, although the major electronics suppliers like Advance would probably have all of them.

There's a vibrating device in there. I can't remember what it's called. probably a vibrator. That needs to be working, too.

When I first got my car I cared about LCOC rules so I had the radio rebuilt. Had I known that I actually was going to use the car as much as I do I would have had it rebuilt with modern guts.

The radio is a bitch to remove, but patience will pay off. I don't believe there's enough room to bring it out the driver's side, so I didn't try.

The first thing to do is to remove the panel behind the glove box on the firewall. This will give you access to the screws that hold the hinge. Remove the glove box by taking the liner out of the glove box and unscrewing the drop restraints. Now the box will come free.

I believe there's a dash support bracket that runs from the firewall to the dash on the left of the glove box opening. I'm not sure if you have to remove it but it does give you more room to work.

Remove the side panel on the center of the lower dash. This will give you access to the speaker. Follow the wire to the radio and unplug its harness by pulling straight out. Mine had some kind of phoenelic wafer that the pins went through. Unplug the antenna. Disconnect the power leads. If memory serves me there are three wire's. One's the ground, one is hooked to the dash light circuit and the third is power. Don't mix them up.

Remove the radio knobs. behind the back know you'll find either a 1/2" or 9/16" nut the threads onto the radio shafts. Back them off most of the way but leave them on until your getting ready to pull the radio. I think mine had a rear support strap that had to be undone and moved out of the way. With your right hand, reach up and support the radio while you take the shaft nuts off. Now you can disengage the radio from the dash.

Here's where the problem comes in. From my experience there is only one way to take it out, but that's nearly impossible to put in writing. If I remember correctly (it was 6 years ago) you have to flip the radio with the shafts facing up in order to extract it.

Also, had I thought about it I would have taken the front seat out so that you can lie on your back more comfortably. Being 6'5" puts me at a bit of a disadvantage. I did take the seat out when I restrung my wipers. What a PITA that was.

[Barry Wolk]

P.S. It also helps to take the panel the off the underside of the dash on the driver's side. Use a light source through this opening for good visibility.

Many of you will find that you are missing screws from the lower dash panel. They are probably stripped keep-nuts. You can cut out the side of the keeper and replace the nut or you can simply rethread to the next larger size and buy specialty screws that have the larger thread with a smaller head.

That's how I fixed the screws on top of the instrument pod.

[Chuck Lutz]

I'm not an electronic kinda guy but if one wanted to buy old tubes, where would you get them? Test them?
I remember as a kid almost every hardware store (and others) had a test/display in the back.

[Barry Wolk]

There's a whole subculture of tube-heads out there that support the industry. I don't think I've heard of a lot of people replacing tubes on these radios. All I've ever heard about were the paper capacitors failing.

[Chuck Lutz]

Guess I'm going to bone up on "paper capacitors". Most of the paper I've seen with the Mark II have President's pictures on it. :D

[linc64]

Here's a site that will tell you everything you need to know about capacitors for vintage radios, and more.
http://www.justradios.com/captips.html

[Barry Wolk]

That was helpful, thanks!

[Ian Cowie]

I was interested in finding a schematic for this radio so I sent an email to the justradios.com site. They responded that they need the model # of the radio. Fair enough ... but as the removal is so darn tricky as described, I was wondering if someone had a radio already removed from their vehicle and could share that info?
Safe to assume that the same radio model was used on all MKIIs?
I could "assume" that but no sense making an "A**" out of "U" and "ME"!
Thanks

[Barry Wolk]

I have a schematic for the radio somewhere. Glad to share it with you when I find it. I think it's in the Mark II Encyclopedia. From what I've learned there's a vibrating device that goes bad and the capacitors lose their value and can easily be replaced with modern capacitors.

[Shelly Harris]

The vibrating device is the power supply. If you can get to it you can easily put a tester on it and check it out. But I'll save you the time of doing that.... if you have a good fuse in the circuit and the radip fails to light up or turn on, then the power supply is dead. The radio itself may be ok. However, after all these years all of the caps inside the radio itself NEED replacing unless you're happy hearing garbage.

My unit doesn't light up and the power supply is dead. So I have decided to go with a new hidden unit and leave the original undisturbed in its place. At best, if the old unit was working you'd never be satisfied with the quality of that AM only radio. We are all accustomed to good 2010 audio --- not 1956 AM only with hum in the background. A nice hidden unit will have stereo FM and probably input for MP3 files. That's a project I have on the back burner.

[Barry Wolk]

Actually, Shelly, my radio sound OK for an AM radio. My signal seek even works. However, the only thing on AM it seems is hate-talk radio and religious jabber. Not my cup of tea.

I like listening to the car.

[linmk2]

It's true, there is not any good AM programing. However, if you have not heard a "tube" radio, the sound produced has a very mellow tone. It's very hard to described, but the sound is different from what is produced by a solid state unit. I would like to get the radio in my Mark working again just to say it works and watch the tuning knob spin when the Town & Country button is pressed.:)

[Don Henschel]

I was interested in finding a schematic for this radio so I sent an email to the justradios.com site. They responded that they need the model # of the radio. Fair enough ... but as the removal is so darn tricky as described, I was wondering if someone had a radio already removed from their vehicle and could share that info?
Safe to assume that the same radio model was used on all MKIIs?
I could "assume" that but no sense making an "A**" out of "U" and "ME"!
Thanks

This is out of the Continental Mark II Radio Guide. Jack sells it and this was money well spent! As for the "Hum" in the audio, your Electrolitic capacitor in your power supply (C26) is bad. If you hear a buzzing sound that changes when your engine speed changes quite likely your coax cable to your antenna has a bad ground on the braided sheild. Your vibrator in your power supply is actualy quite reliable and what usually takes them out is the paper capacitor C22 wired to it. It is a buffer capacitor that acts alot like the condenser in your ignition system on the points.

[chris cimarusti]

Seckman's Antique Radio & Speaker Repair
5430 Sandra Drive
Ravenna, OH 44266
216-297-1816
Seckman repaired my radio 20 years ago and it still plays well!!

[Pat Marshall]

I tried to contact this business. The number is disconnected. (the area code is now330). I did multiple searches with no success (other than a link to an old .pdf document). I also called a local repair shop and they had never heard of the business.
This is a residential address.

[Pat Marshall]

Modern Electronics AM-FM Stereo Conversion
Installed in your original radio!

Bob's Radio & TV Service
1415 South 4th Street
Oceano, CA 93445
(805) 489-8200
http://www.bobsradio.com/

[Pat Marshall]

I'm not an electronic kinda guy but if one wanted to buy old tubes, where would you get them? Test them?
I remember as a kid almost every hardware store (and others) had a test/display in the back.

I believe that the 56/57 Little Bird Town & Country Radios are the same inside as the Mark II's. Classic Auto Supply Company (CASCO) sells replacement tubes and vibrators. See page 60 of their downloadable 2010 Catalog. www.classictbird.com

[Chuck Lutz]

Very cool, Pat. I'll check that out. Thanks.

[Don Henschel]

I believe that the 56/57 Little Bird Town & Country Radios are the same inside as the Mark II's. Classic Auto Supply Company (CASCO) sells replacement tubes and vibrators. See page 60 of their downloadable 2010 Catalog. www.classictbird.com

Most cars of this vintage used the same tubes etc. The make and model varied quite a bit but most used the same tubes. As a hoarder I have alot of car radio's etc. from Ford and GM and they are very close. Parts are NOT a problem for radios. If you need more schematics posted I can provide.

[Rick Payton]

Hey guys,

I just sent my radio out for conversion. I was told that the town and country setting will now only work as AM and FM buttons. The problem is the 300 Volt motor that is needed to make T/C mechanism work. I found a guy that can make the T/C buttons work as seek and scan with modern guts. This guy is great below is his contact info...

http://southtexasantiqueelectronics.com/

email: radios@southtexasantiqueelectronics.com
phone: (361)-739-4181
snail mail: South Texas Antique Electronics, PO Box 1062, Portland, TX, 78374.
physical address: 516 Lang Road, Portland, TX.

[crystal59]

Here is an email to me from Cliff who refurbished/restored my radio. He knows what he is doing and easy to talk to.

Hi Gary
Your radio is ready to go. I am sending it to the address you gave.
I appologize for taking so long but the power tuning section of the radio had some refurbishing issues that had to be delt with before I could go any further. Being a rare radio and no parts available, I rebuilt the existing parts and is now in great shape. The Town 'n' Country works as original by pushing either button to seek a station on the dial and stop on it. There is documentation for the installation in the box to aid in setting it up. If you have questions, please feel free to drop me a* line or call 1-250-489-5874.
Thank you for allowing me to convert your radio.
*
Enjoy,
*
Cliff
*
*
Western Wireless Co.
U.S.*Addr: Box 224 Eastport Idaho, 83826
Cdn. Addr: 717 10th St.*S., Cranbrook, B.C., V1C 1S7
Web: http://www.westernwireless.ca
email: cliff@westernwireless.ca
Tel: 1-250-489-5874*
*