Losing Wheel Covers

[vancec]

OK, I know all Mark II owner's worst nightmare is the wheel covers coming off on the freeway and being crushed by a semi. I have what I think may solve this although I haven't been able to execute it yet.

I plan to buy a bunch of those little Neodymium magnets and attach one each of them to the inside surface of at least four of the spring-tabs of the hubcap (so as to not make direct contact with the wheel but so that the tab is sandwiched between the magnet and the wheel). I will be necessary to straighten out and form the tab, no doubt. These magnets come in all sizes and shapes and are strong enough to lift an elephant. Unless I am wrong, I can make a hubcap that really doesn't want to come off. Waddaya think?

[Barry Wolk]

Won't work. The reason hub caps are lost is the radial tires make the original wheels flex too much. Read the thread on radial tires and the clearance problems they have.

The problem is that the hub caps rotate within the wheel from the flexing. They will bend the valve stem so far that it breaks. Using metal stems will help the caps from popping off as they hold the cap in position, allowing the teeth of the retainers to dig into the wheel.

New steel wheels are the best choice, though. Ordering them with a 3 1/2" backset instead of the 4.25" backset will help the wider radials clear the frame, upper ball joint and exhaust system.

I also think it makes the car look better with a 1.5" wider track.

[Nick DeSpirito]

I haven't lost a hub cap yet, knock on wood. I did lose a head light bezel on I-95 in CT. coming back from Narragansett. My buddy was right behind me in his Town Car and I saw his left front tire run it over in my rear view mirror. :eek: Needless to say, there was no need to stop and retrieve it. I found out when I got home that one of the three spring clips that hold it in place gave out.

Like the hub caps, people used to make holes in them and fasten them with a screw. That's why sometimes you will see them and also the rocker moldings with holes in them. A terrible thing to do to such valuable parts today.

[vancec]

I am going to be using original wheels and bias-ply tires. But I am really afraid of losing one of these wheel covers. Worst case I guess I can get some fake cheapo hubcaps for driving around.

[Barry Wolk]

You're going to hate driving it with bias-ply. I've driven both, and there's no comparison. If you don't care about authenticity, why bother with ancient technology?

[Nick DeSpirito]

Barry is right, although I still have bias ply tires on mine. But next set of tires. I will make the switch.

Just make sure your wheel covers are on tight all the way around or they will be unbalanced when the wheels are turning and with that unbalance, the centrifugal force will make them dance right off the wheel.

[Shelly Harris]

I am going to be using original wheels and bias-ply tires. But I am really afraid of losing one of these wheel covers. Worst case I guess I can get some fake cheapo hubcaps for driving around.If you're using the old bias ply tires I don't think you have to worry. It's using the original rims with radials where you get in trouble. I have had three hubcaps fly off my original wheels w/radial ply tires. Believe me, I know how to put on a hubcap and they were on tight! Twice I was lucky and no damage resulted. The third time was catastrophe! A $400 hubcap totally ruined. That taught me a lesson, my original hubcaps now ride in the trunk and I am using a $45 set of plastic hubcaps (eBay)which look somewhat like the original cap... they are very bright, shiny, look nice and stay on the wheel no matter how hard the bump. I will use them until the current radials wear down a little and then I'll replace the wheels along with new wide white wall radials and my original caps.

Here's the source for the pictured hubcap:

Nationwide Hubcaps
800-758-1282
1361 W 3150 S
Syracuse, UT

Hubcap model #63C15

[Nick DeSpirito]

Shelly,

I didn't mean being sure they are tight with radials. That wouldn't help as we know the radials make the original wheels flex. Vance is planning on using bias ply tires. BTW, those plastic caps look nice.

[vancec]

You're going to hate driving it with bias-ply. I've driven both, and there's no comparison. If you don't care about authenticity, why bother with ancient technology?

One reason only: I was able to pick up a good set used for $80 each. The wheels were $20 each. On my budget that was a no-brainer and I am not planning on putting a lot of miles on the car anyway so if it doesn't ride that well I'll deal.

I will look into finding decent looking plastic substitutes anyway. Any info on which are best and where to find them?

And my original idea about the magnets: any thoughts?

Thanks

[Keith W Colonna]

I drove my MKII from Conn down to Va over two days on the freeways and many construction sites. It had the bias ply tires.
The sensation reminded me of driving my parents 59 Lincoln during the summers down to Florida and the concentration it took.
Those were the days of real driving...no cel phones..no texting (or twittering).
And that is the way I want to experience these old cars...like they were designed, with all the limitations and inconveniences.

[Barry Wolk]

To each their own. I like coming home from my trips in one piece. Bias-ply are great for trailers, but suck, big-time, for cars.

See any new cars with bias-ply? Wonder why?

[MisterMarkII]

I plan on taking 1959 lincoln hubcap and fitting them into modern beauty rings and using that for my driver caps. I got four used for $60 bucks....they look like MKII caps just stamped steel and only 14 inch. But that will work to fit them into modifyed 15 inch rings!

[Shelly Harris]

If you're running radials on original wheels get ready to lose the 59 Lincolns. I was running 1962 Mark caps but one flew off on the tollway. The cheap very flexible plastic ones stay on.

[Owned 2 B4]

I don't own a MkII now but I owned 2 in the 60s and 70s, and lost wheel covers on both with bias tires. I want another MkII when I retire, and I thought by now somebody would have solved the wheelcover problem. I just drove my cars with regular '56 Lincoln wheelcovers. By the way has anyone noticed that regular '56 wheelcovers were used on the '61 Lincoln that Kennedy was assassinated in, because of the 15'' wheels used on that car? I guess everyone knows that '58 MkIII wheelcovers look much like MkII wheelcovers, and are much lighter, but they are 14'. Wish someone could make the lighter 1958 style for the MkII.

[depmike38]

Shelly, these aren't bad looking at all. On the aftermarket covers I have to sometimes use at the shop a lot of them have a manufacturers name and a part number on the back. If you get a few minutes sometime could you check?

[Phil Gevertz]

For what it is worth, I have always had my original wheel covers on, and have never lost one.

[Barry Wolk]

Do you have bias-ply or radials, Phil?

[glennjo47]

Barry
Do you know which later model wheels will fit my mark ii with the proper back spacing for clearance with radial tires and help keep my hub caps on
Thanks Glenn
c5671005

[Barry Wolk]

I don't believe there are any, but I could be wrong. New wheels made to order by Vintique are remarkably inexpensive.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Ordering them with a 3 1/2" backset instead of the 4.25" backset will help the wider radials clear the frame, upper ball joint and exhaust system.



Barry, it that "backset" of 4.25 the distance between the inside rim and the face which stays on the drum?
If yes, this is the answer to one of the specifications I'm missing from the Technical Data book.
I'm missing also the bolt circle: is it 4 3/4"?
Thank you for your comments.

[Barry Wolk]

It's 5 on 5.25, I believe, with a weird way of measuring.

I believe the standard backset is 4". Reduce that by 3/4" to push the wheels outboard and create some clearance. I think the car looks noticeably better that way. It fills the wheel wells better.

[Roger Zimmermann]

It's 5 on 5.25, I believe, with a weird way of measuring.

I believe the standard backset is 4". Reduce that by 3/4" to push the wheels outboard and create some clearance. I think the car looks noticeably better that way. It fills the wheel wells better.
Thank you for responding. Yes, with 5 lugs, it's not easy to measure! The bolt circle may be the same as Cadillacs; I have to check.
The backset of 4" is the same as Cadillacs too!
This dimension is critical to me: it permit to create the rear axle and front suspension correctly based on the thread.

[Mark_II_Mark]

About the only SURE way to keep from losing the hubcaps is to attach them with 2 small sheet metal screws into the wheels themselves. I think that this solution was mentioned by Buddy Holiday in his manual. The previous owner of my Mark II did this and with the screw heads painted black, they're not noticable at all.

With a 6 pack of Lone Star & bias-ply "gangsta whites" at 111 mph on a deserted stretch of bumpy TX highway, everything stayed put, except my passengers. HA!!!

[Barry Wolk]

To each their own. I wouldn't put a hole in my hubcap when new wheels solves the problem. IMO, putting a screw through the hubcap is akin to putting fasteners through the Mona Lisa to make sure it doesn't fall off the wall.:rolleyes:

[Keith W Colonna]

I agree with Barry....I would not put screws into the wheel covers to hold them on. Yes, it's a Mona Lisa assault and it's like putting prosthetic arms on the Venus de Milo or putty and paint on the Liberty Bell...how's that for analogy? (Group, please chime in with other comparisons)
Replace the wheels as he suggests. I also seriously think that a few dabs of strategically placed adhesive caulk on a some wheel cover splines might help.
The wheel cover splines can also compress over time from repeated removal and installation....so bend a couple of them slightly to better grip the wheel.
I've not lost one yet...with bias ply tires, regardless of high speed for long drives on bumpy roads.

[Barry Wolk]

Some of the reports I've read said that consumer complaints about popping hubcaps on new cars were pretty loud, considering who owned the cars. I found a number of letters on the subject in the Continental files. I'd say the problem back then might have been from road conditions and not the tires.

Bias-ply sidewalls are so rigid that the tires contributed little to the problem and probably why you've never lost any. I just got tired of the cacophony of squeaks and groans coming from the wheels as I pulled into my garage. Now the car is virtually silent, the way it was designed.

This also brings up another safety issue I've encountered with the stock wheels and hubcaps. Every Mark II I've seen that gets driven on radials without tubes has the same problem. The hubcap rotates within the wheel opening, putting great force on the valve stem. Unlike a tube-type valve stem it's grommet-like means of attaching to the wheel creates a weak link as the valve stem gets pushed over. I had two flats from this problem before I installed metal valve stems. I do note that the hubcap still rotates, but it stopped when it reaches the stem. I also note that the hubcaps are much tougher to remove now as the barbed clasps seem to have dug into the wheel some. I think that that's because the wheels still flex, but the cap doesn't rotate.

Those that have stock hubcaps should check their valve stems on tubeless tires. I'm curious to see how many find their valve stems pushed over.

[Roger Zimmermann]

It's interesting to see that some makes/models have problems with hubcaps associated with radial tires. I have the impression that the driving habits may also have to do with the issue:
On my '56 de Ville, I have radial tires and never had a problem with the wheelcovers. The stems are still free, the wheelcovers does not move.
On my '57 Brougham I have also radial tires, but the problem is different as the center of the wheel is chromed aluminum, with just a small hubcap to hide the bolts.
The '56 Biarritz is on bias ply tires. Never again!

[Barry Wolk]

Both of my hubcap losses were in straight-line driving and both were in construction zones with pavement transitions. Amazingly I was able to retrieve both and one only had minor edge damage. I know it's anecdotal evidence but I've not had a problem since installing wheels designed for radials. The new wheels are a thicker material as they weigh 5 pounds more than the original.

I've put 10,000 miles on the new wheels and not lost a hubcap. Seems like cause and effect to me, but what do I know?

[Doc]

For what it's worth; I've got radials on the original wheels. While I haven't lost a hubcap (yet, knock on wood), I have noticed the hubcaps rotating around on the valve stem and have actually had to remove a couple of them when I checked tire pressure--they're that bent over that I couldn't get the gauge on them. I'm in the process of getting a set of the plastic "driver" covers others on the forum have recommended to use when I'm going on long freeway drives--my sentimental attachment to the car is such that I just don't want to press my luck and risk losing one of the original hubcaps. On the other hand, the difference in handling with radials (esp. on the grooved freeways common in Southern California), is such that I can't go back to bias ply. I've spoken with some local car guys about going Barry's route with new rims and they're of divided opinion. Still Barry's experience suggests it may be the way to go.

[Barry Wolk]

What size tires? P235R15 tires are much wider at the cross section than an original size bias-ply. The guy I bought my car from installed 1/4" spacers behind the front wheels and 3/4" behind the rear. In the front that created enough space to clear the upper ball joint. In the rear the extra width made the tire clear the exhaust better.

When I had the wheels made by Vintique I had them made with a shallower backset. The extra 3/4" made everything clear properly without having to use spacers. I, personally, think that it looks better with a wider track. The tires fill the wheel well better, making it look like its genetic offspring, the '61 Continental.

I would advise those with radials to check the clearance of their tires to the balljoint. There are dynamics that can close that gap.

[Doc]

I believe they are P235R15s. I haven't seen any evidence of rubbing or contact, but I'm sure you're right that we'd be better off with a different offset for the radials.

Barry, I know you've posted this in another link, but I'm wondering if your car's weight might play into the equation? With the additional reinforcement for the convertible, did your car end up appreciably more heavy than the hardtops? Might that be a factor with the flexing of the wheels?

[Barry Wolk]

Probably my lard ass makes more of a difference than the conversion. It only weighs a couple hundred more than an air conditioned car at 5200#.

[peterr]

On the Auto hobby site it has the wheel bolt pattern for MkII's as 5x5.5" If that is correct it's the same as a 5 stud F100, I just measured the back space on my F100 at 4". Might be a cheap alterative with no radial tyre wheel flexing or weight concerns. Easy enough to do a trial fit, there's million of effie wheels around.

[depmike38]

You know that's a thought. I've got a 70 F100 with 235/70R15 tires and I think I'll swap one out and see what it looks like.

[Mad Scientist]

The 5x5.5 is correct. If we can use the stock F100 wheel that would be great.

I have P22515R radials on mine and using the original wheels and they just fit. So replacing the wheels is on my things to do list.

[Roger Zimmermann]

The 5x5.5 is correct.
Thank you for answering by inadvertance a question I asked some days ago!

[Barry Wolk]

Maybe we should put together a large order and get a better price.

[Nick DeSpirito]

Count me in. But first we should do a trial fit to see if they work, no?

[Barry Wolk]

I already have the Vintique wheels on my car. I know they work.

I don't know about F-100 wheels as they were made for bias-ply and, they won't solve the clearance problem as they have the same backset as the Mark II wheels. What have you gained?

[Nick DeSpirito]

Oh, ok. Thought you were talking about the F-100 wheels. I'm down for the Vintiques like you have. I'll need 5. (one for the spare) How much were they when you bought them? I know Shep will order them too.

[Barry Wolk]

I think they were about $55 each 6 years ago. I'll call and check. Maybe NPD can get us a better deal. Rick?

[Nick DeSpirito]

ok, cool! Thanks Barry :) What kind of tires and what size are you riding on? Like I told you, Diamond Backs were recommended to me. Is 235-70R-15 too wide? Should I go with 225's? I would like to go with the 235's for a wider stance if they fit.

[Barry Wolk]

Weight is a consideration as is the OD of the tire. Any difference in OD from the bias-ply will throw off your speedometer. I would go,with the bigger tire. I think mine are 235s with a 3 1/8" whitewall.

I have Coker tires. I'm pretty happy with them but they were a pain to balance. Diamondback does whitewall applications on other's tires. I had my Porsche whitewalls made by them. They were nicely done.

I had heard that they were going to make a complete tire but I thought it was only a Redline, but I could be wrong. I've heard the Silvertown tires are nice, too.

[Nick DeSpirito]

Thanks for the info. Let me know on the wheels and if you need the money up front, I'll get you out a check.

[Barry Wolk]

I've sent a message to Vintique to ask for current pricing on 5 and 50 wheels with 3.25" backsets.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Like I told you, Diamond Backs were recommended to me. Is 235-70R-15 too wide? Should I go with 225's? I would like to go with the 235's for a wider stance if they fit.
For the tires for my '56 de Ville, I bought a set from Diamond Back, size 225/75R15. Indeed they are too small in diameter than the 8.20x15 they replace, but the front fender form (like the '56 Lincoln) prevents to use a wider tire. In my opinion, a 225/75R15 would be a better fit on your car than a 235/70R15. However, if you have A/C, the original equipement of your car was 8.20x15. If you have the necessary clearance, use a 235/75R15.

[peterr]

I already have the Vintique wheels on my car. I know they work.

I don't know about F-100 wheels as they were made for bias-ply and, they won't solve the clearance problem as they have the same backset as the Mark II wheels. What have you gained?

Bias-ply??:confused: Radial ply tyres have been standard fitment on F100/150's with 15" wheels in Aus for over 30 years.
If every thing is the same at least you have gained a stronger wheel.

[Mad Scientist]

Bias-ply??:confused: Radial ply tyres have been standard fitment on F100/150's with 15" wheels in Aus for over 30 years.
If every thing is the same at least you have gained a stronger wheel.

You just answered a question I was going to ask, as I would have assumed that that the F100 was running on radials.

Barry in previous threads didn't you say that your new off set was 3 3/4" not 3 1/4?

Regarding tire sizes this is the info that I have:

The 820x15 was rated for 1920lbs and has a dia. of 29.56".
The P235/75R is rated at 2028lbs and dia, is 28.9.
The P225/75R is rated at 1874lbs and dia. is 28.3.

The cross section of these tires are:
8.35
9.3
8.8

If my math is correct the speedometer error for the 225 is,
63MPH is an actual 60MPH.

[Nick DeSpirito]

Mad,

Is the cross section the tire width? Is the 235 wider than the 820? I think the Firestone 820 repros on my car are wider than the originals because they rub when I turn the wheel to the stop in either direction, plus the spare doesn't fit in the spare tire well.

I think the back set of the new wheels will help that and the closeness of the back tires to the exhaust pipe. I hope the 235 spare will fit in the well. If not, I'll keep the one I have in the well for a spare. I don't remember what brand and size tire I have in there. I'll have to look.

[Barry Wolk]

My 235 fits in the trunk, snugly. I finally got mine to fit by putting it in the space with very little air in it. I snugged it down and filled the tire to 60 lbs. This moved the sheet metal of the trunk latch and the well enough so that the tire could be removed fully aired.

Mad, the backset is 3/4" shallower than the stock 4" making it a 3 1/4" backset.

The truck wheels may be stronger, but do not solve the original suspension and exhaust clearance problems. In fact, moving the front tires outboard by 3/4" resolved the tire frame-rub problem as my suspension stops turning on the suspension stops, not the frame.

Another advantage to moving the tires outboard is a decrease in turning radius as the tires are allowed to turn further before hitting their stops.

[Mad Scientist]

Mad,

Is the cross section the tire width? Yes Is the 235 wider than the 820? Yes, by about one inch. I think the Firestone 820 repros on my car are wider than the originals because they rub when I turn the wheel to the stop in either direction, plus the spare doesn't fit in the spare tire well. The original Firestone's on my car also rubbed the frame at their maximum travel.

I think the back set of the new wheels will help that and the closeness of the back tires to the exhaust pipe. I hope the 235 spare will fit in the well. If not, I'll keep the one I have in the well for a spare. I don't remember what brand and size tire I have in there. I'll have to look.

I have the 225's on my car and it just fits in the trunk after I modified the sheet metal stop directly under the latch.

[Mad Scientist]

Mad, the backset is 3/4" shallower than the stock 4" making it a 3 1/4" backset.


OK. That makes sense. For some reason I keep getting those numbers turned around.:confused::o

[TulsaMarkII]

I've sent a message to Vintique to ask for current pricing on 5 and 50 wheels with 3.25" backsets.

Mr. Wolk,

Have you heard back from Vintique? I'm very interested in getting a set of steel wheels like yours on my new car ASAP. I'm all too familiar with the sound of my original hubcaps rolling down the highway and I refused to live with this on the new car.

Thanks,

Jason Farque

[Barry Wolk]

I contacted Vintique. I asked for a price for 5 or 50. When they gave me a price of $106 each I again asked for quantity pricing and never heard back.

I believe I paid about $60 ea for mine, but that was 7 years ago. I ordered mine unpainted so that I could have them painted body color without having to strip the factory paint.

[TulsaMarkII]

Do you still have the pertinent measurements or should I attempt to recreate them?

[Barry Wolk]

They are 15 x 6" wheels with a 5 x 5.5" bolt pattern. The wheel is stock with a 4" backset. You want a 3.25" backset. That will push your tires 3/4" outboard creating frame and suspension clearance.

[TulsaMarkII]

They are 15 x 6" wheels with a 5 x 5.5" bolt pattern. The wheel is stock with a 4" backset. You want a 3.25" backset. That will push your tires 3/4" outboard creating frame and suspension clearance.

I just got off of the phone with joe@wheelvintiques.com. He says that they haven't received my request for quote through their web site and it's been several days. Anyhow, he stated that their limit on the backset is 3-5/8"?

Barry did you request a quote through their web site also? Perhaps they aren't receiving them.

He would like a good photo of the face of a wheel to judge their ability to make them. Does anyone have a photo like that handy? If not I can shoot one of my cars tomorrow.

Jason

[Barry Wolk]

From: Barry Wolk <barry2952@twmi.rr.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2009 5:57 AM
To: eric@wheelvintiques.com
Subject: Wheels

I purchased wheels from you several years ago with custom backsets. The number on the box is 14-5655314. They are for a Continental Mark II that has a 5 x 5.25 bolt pattern on a 15 x 6 wheel. I believe I had these made with a 3.25" backset instead of a 4" backset.

Our club is interested in a quantity purchase if the price is right.

Please price 5 and 50 wheel orders.


This was his response:

Please double check your bolt pattern, it should be 5-5 1/2bp. The wheel can be built and would cost $106.00 ea. Thank you

I e-mailed back and asked for a quantity price, and never heard back.

This is the Vintique wheel. This was taken at the bump shop when they tried to color match the new wheels.

BTW, The metal on the new wheel is thicker than the original wheel making the opening for the hubcap slightly smaller. It's a very nice, tight fit.

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/barry2952/1%20Mark%20II%20docs/Picture0010.jpg

[Nick DeSpirito]

I just E-mailed Eric and told him I'm interested in ordering. I'll let you know when I get a response. Guess they're not interested in giving a quantity discount.

[Huffstutler]

For what it is worth. I use to own a 1963 Imperial LeBaron that weighed almost exactly the same as the Mark II - 4,875 pounds. It actualy had 4-ply with intertubes when I purchased it as the 3rd owner and replaced them with tubeless 4-ply. It drove just fine and got great tire wear over the radials I had on my 1975 Imperial LeBaron but I did change the shocks to a softer riding gas type.

Eric

[Mark_II_Mark]

As I originally mentioned, the ONLY simple way to GUARANTEE that you won't lose a hubcover, bias or radial ply, stock or modified backset, protestations by the Xspurts be damned, can be found on page 43 of the Old Testament of all things Mark II, "Problems With Your Mark II?....Ask Buddy" by The Mark II Messiah & Guru Buddy E. Holiday, oft times quoted on this forum by the Xspurts. I quote from the words of "The One" (XXXXXXXXXXXXX) Master Holiday:

"To prevent your wheel covers falling off, or being ripped off, drill two small holes diagonally from each other in the black area and into the wheel. Screw two countersunk sheet metal screws in and touch up the heads with black paint."

He continues with a somewhat more drastic method:

"Another method is to put 3 spots of arc weld onto the wheel where the cover clips make connection. This will make removal very difficult, but at $100 bucks (1975 dollars) a copy it is a good investment."

Again, these are the ONLY ways to prevent hubcover loss. Spend all the $$$ you want on different tires, new wheels with modified backsets, voodo chants, whatever, NONE OF THEM ARE GUARANTEED TO PREVENT A HUBCOVER LOSS! PERIOD!

If you were not previously made aware of the simple screw fix, you would not notice such a fix upon a simple cursory examination of the hubcover, plus you'll sleep better at night & have quite a few additional $$$ in your wallet.

Now, is it hubcover, hubcap, or wheel cover? Let the intellectual discussion begin...

[Don Henschel]

My "cure" for not loosing wheel covers:p The exact make, model, and size as listed on my dealer invoice;) I'm actualy very impressed by how well this car rides and handles with these bios tires! I have owned and driven alot of cars and I cannot complain about this car! We also have very poor roads as well.

[Huffstutler]

Now, is it hubcover, hubcap, or wheel cover? Let the intellectual discussion begin...

If this is a legitimate question :confused:

I have never heard of "hubcover". The difference between a hubcap and a wheel cover are - the "cap" only covers the lug nut area of the rim (like seen on low priced model cars and trucks of the 40s-60s - sometimes used with beauty rings) where the "wheel cover" goes all the way out to the edge of the rim.

[Mark_II_Mark]

Sure it's legit, just like the use of "vanes" or "fins". The use of automotive technical language tells a lot about the particular age, knowledge & sophistication of said user.

I have heard the term "hubcap" used by "old timers" interchangeably with "grease cap", the concave cylindrical part covering the hub or axle, hubcover used to describe a decorative cover used on early wire/laced wheels prior to the advent & mass use of full steel wheels and wheel cover as a larger version of a hubcover used to describe the decorative cover for full steel wheels.

Now, were/are they to be referred to as wire or laced wheels? Car & Harley owners will differ on this one...

[Huffstutler]

Hope I passed the test Mark ;)

Now, to me a grease cap would mean a grease cup that holds the grease and seals up the axle bearing.

Vanes or Fins - I am assuming you are talking about what I call turbine covers? I believe the proper term is vanes.

Eric

[Mark_II_Mark]

Yep, you more than passed with that reference to "Turbine Covers". Bet you got the Chrysler Turbine car tucked back in a barn somewhere, right?

I now promote you to "Super", Huffster...

[Mark_II_Mark]

Forgot my Aricept today...

[Huffstutler]

Yep, you more than passed with that reference to "Turbine Covers". Bet you got the Chrysler Turbine car tucked back in a barn somewhere, right?

I now promote you to "Super", Huffster...

How I wish I had one of the '63 Chrysler Turbine cars! You know that 55 were produced and 46 of them were sent to the crushers. Only 9 exists today, most in museums and only 2 owned by private individuals... #991242 being in commedian Jay Leno's collection. The other #991231 is owned by Frank Kleptz in Indiana.

[Mark_II_Mark]

GREAT before & after pictures & what a damn shame. All of the expense to produce 55 vehicles & the majority get sent to the crusher.

[Huffstutler]

Hey... what happened to my "after" picture link?

Eric

[Barry Wolk]

I remember seeing a picture of crushed cars, but now it's gone. I don't know why.

Shelly? Nick?

[Nick DeSpirito]

I don't know what happened either. Maybe it was too large?

[Shelly Harris]

I deleted it during an attempt to move away some of the posts in this thread which are not relavant to the thread..... The delete was really not intended as I was going to move the last three or four posts to the "lounge" but somehow I got distracted and made some changes, but then ran off and did something else (like buy another car!!!) Anyways, in a day or two I'll straighten this thread out because it really has gotten way off subject.

[Nick DeSpirito]

Shelly Harris wrote: "but then ran off and did something else (like buy another car!!!"

Another Mark II, I hope? :D

[Shelly Harris]

Not a Mark II... look here:

http://www.markiiforum.com/showthread.php?p=4265#post4265