Parade car modification

[Barry Wolk]

I have been in several parades where the car has overheated due to idle speed. I was thinking about using the vacuum-powered electrically-operated idle-increasing device to automatically increase engine rpm at a certain temperature.

I would accomplish this by installing a new circuit off of the load side of the air-conditioning fuse. This circuit would feed a thermostatically controlled switch, like those used with electric fans. When needed the switch would close, opening up the vacuum valve, allowing the mechanism to advance rpm until the engine cooled down. I would conceal the wire within vacuum tubing to hide it.

Any thoughts?

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/barry2952/1%20Mark%20II%20docs/IMG_0045.jpg

[Mad Scientist]

Have you considered putting a shroud around the fan, thus pulling air through the entire radiator. I realize that this would not be stock, but perhaps something that could be snapped on for parades.

I have been experimenting with a shroud on mine and it really works. I've been thinking I would need a larger radiator because it does over heat when sitting and idling. But doing some research suggested the importance of a shroud. So I make one out some old cardboard boxes and duck tape and give it a try.

On a warm 45 degree day:rolleyes: started engine and let it idle and watched the temperature. At 205 (my set point) the fan turned on. In the past this just slowed down the rise in temperature, this time the temperature actually dropped and was down to 195 and looking like it might go lower when I shut the engine off.

I have now built a more "presentable" looking shroud and am waiting for a nice warm day to try it out.

[Barry Wolk]

A shroud around the fan without a damper would make it run too cool, I believe.

The ideal thing would be to install an electric fan, no?

[Chuck Lutz]

Barry, this only happens during the long slow pace of the parade or does it happen like being caught in traffic.
I have heard people complaining about overheat problems with the Mark II and switching to 6 blade fans, etc. I frankly, have never had a problem with mine. Last week, while out driving I caught up in a big back up in rush hour traffic and watched the temp closely and no problems. Either that or maybe I should have the gauge checked. :eek:
The electric fan sounds like a good try.

[Barry Wolk]

It happens in parades and at cruises. Never happens on the road.

[Mad Scientist]

A shroud around the fan without a damper would make it run too cool, I believe.

The ideal thing would be to install an electric fan, no?

As long as the thermostat is working correctly the engine will never run too cool.

An electric fan might help, but it obviously will not look stock.
The problem I found with my electric fans is that they only blow air through the center of the radiator, the corners do not get much air flow. Putting a shroud on it forces the air to flow through the entire core.

[5bird7]

Don't have experience with even being in a Mark II let alone a parade with one but as a little 'bird owner, have been in many parades. Our solution when the 'bird starts running too hot, is to open the hood slightly to allow more hot air to escape and turn the heater on. However, our tops are down so it doesn't get too hot in the passenger compartment (but our legs burn!) It works for us. Our club, has in the past, requested that we be near the front of the parade which tends to be a little faster than the end of a parade.

[Barry Wolk]

Difference is, if you forget to latch your hood, it's no big deal because it's front hinged. In a Mark II coupe the hood flying open would be a big deal, but no one would be severely injured. However, an unlatched 6-foot front-opening hood on a convertible could be disastrous.:eek:

[0bird2]

The effect of releasing the hood on the little birds is that it lets air out of the engine compartment faster, so better airflow thru the radiator. This wouldn't really work on the Mark II as there still is no place for the hot air to escape. Here is where I'll get a little off the main topic, on our '57 T-Bird I built a new engine several years ago and one of the things I spent extra time on was getting the water jackets super clean. I must have gotten 2 pounds of sand and crap out of the engine. Of course I was starting with a seperate used block (fully asembled at the time). I plugged all the heater oulets with pipe plugs, jammed tennis balls in the themostat outlet and water pump outlet. With the engine fully sealed I pulled the heater plug on the intake manifold and filled the block with CLR (calcium,lime,rust killer stuff) which can be found at Lowe's, Home Depot, Wal Mart, etc. With the engine on an engine stand, I would rotate it 90 degrees every few days for a couple of weeks, then drained the CLR (thru a filter) back into the containers. Then I took out the freeze plugs and went to the inside jackets of the engine with a pressure washer. It's hard to imagine how much junk came out, looked like a rusty beach under the engine.
It was worth the effort, the engine has never overheated and runs right at the thermostat temp all the time. It has gotten to about 200 degrees in a parade, but nothing more. Just sitting at an idle with hood open it stays right at t-stat temp, checked with digital temp gun. Plus, I figure it's not hot if it isn't peeing on the ground, 9lb pressure cap, and it gets warm here in Texas in the summer.