Window switch rebuilding

[Barry Wolk]

These are from my '68 Lincoln. Almost identical to the Mark II switches. The difference is that the Mark II switch handles can go in backwards.

There are several types of switches used on the '68 Lincoln as they serve different functions.

The (6) switches that control the front windows are current reversing switches. That's how DC motors work. Reverse polarity and you reverse direction. The (4) rear window switches are single-pole double-throw switches that control the up and down relays that do the power reversing. These switches should last forever as they only carry enough current to operate the coil in the relay. The third type of switch is the (1)single-pole window lockout switch and the last, (2) lighter duty single-pole switches for lighting.

This pictorial shows the current reversing switch that would be the most prone to failure from use, dirt and the fact that the switch carries the current directly to the motors and heats up as the motor tries to move window mechanisms laden with petrified grease. High consumption leads to burning of the contacts which leads to high resistance which leads to window failure. Replacing the grease in the switches is just as important as replacing the solidified grease in the window guides and gearboxes. Once everything is properly cleaned and greased the windows work like new.

To end all of your window frustrations the final touch is to rebuild your window and light switches. They are all basically the same.

This is the appearance of all the switches. Looks can be deceiving. It is what is going on inside that counts. All of my switches were thrown in a box and all had a Ford logo but the part numbers were often missing. The first one I opened is this one, the current reversing switch used on the front door.

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/barry2952/Limo/IMG_0025.jpg

The metal clips hold both halves of the switch together are best removed with a small pic or dental tool (I get a packet of worn or damaged tools every time I get my teeth cleaned. They just throw them away when one end gets worn or damaged) and set aside. They will most likely be rusty as they are made of uncoated spring steel. They are too small to wire brush or sandblast, so I just scraped them clean. Using a curved dental pic I pried the brass terminal connector off the pins. I remove this part so the brass tangs can be flattened, restoring their ability to get a good bite on the power pins. This plate is designed to give power to both halves of the switch off of one power wire. It also allows you to use the switch in either of two possible ways. In other words, direction on installation doesn't matter.



When the two halves of the switch come apart the spring-loaded handle will come off with two springs and nylon bullet-shaped trip tabs. These tabs can get gummed up, giving the switch a sticky feeling. New grease.

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/barry2952/Limo/IMG_0027.jpg

All of the constituent parts. You'll note that the copper-colored pins have a square shank that only fit in a square hole. Hard to mess that one up. These copper pins pass current to the silver contact on the switch which transfers current to the center conductor of the switch. The copper colored pins always attach to the brass plate while all other pins are isolated.

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/barry2952/Limo/IMG_0028.jpg

The square shanks come in handy as no one can perfectly file points by hand. By rotating the pin 90° you can usually get the silver contact to lie flat on the the pin for maximum contact and minimum arcing. File as flat and smooth as you can

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/barry2952/Limo/IMG_0030.jpg

On reassembly use a high-temp grease. I use the grease used in power tools. Grease the detent pins and the hols in the switch. Grease the rocker section at the center of the switch. It's identified by two brass tabs that stick up. Just a dab will do.

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/barry2952/Limo/IMG_0031.jpg

Once the pins are all back in their place the two halves of the switch can be slid almost all the way together. Keep them just far enough apart to slide the switch handle with its springs and tabs into its two axle holes and snap the retaining clips on.

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/barry2952/Limo/IMG_0033.jpg

The brass plate gets installed on the two copper pins. I used a needle-nosed pilers and pushed down on both sides of the pins a little at a time until the plate rested on the bottom of the switch.

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/barry2952/Limo/IMG_0034.jpg

The finished product. Good for another 40+ years.

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/barry2952/Limo/IMG_0035.jpg

[Stank-67-98]

Thank You Barry...u talk the talk and walk the walk, the world needs many more Barry Wolks.

[Mad Scientist]

Excellent wright up!!:)
Rebuilding these switches is not all that hard, but remembering where all the itty-bitty parts go that can be tricky.:confused: For those that forget the pictures are worth a thousand words.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Ford is searching for difficulties...At GM, the motor for the windows have 2 fields. The ground is done through the case. Swiches have only 3 pins; the center one is the plus. By directing the current to one field or the other one, you have both directions.

[Barry Wolk]

Roger, the motors last forever. It is the grease in the window and seat tracks that cause problems. If you take everything apart, clean and regrease, everything works like new.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Roger, the motors last forever. It is the grease in the window and seat tracks that cause problems. If you take everything apart, clean and regrease, everything works like new.
No doubt about it. It's just the electric circuit which is complicated the way it is designed. By the way, the one of the Mark II is more complicated with all the relays for the windows! GM had no relay for the windows at the time. The whole current is going through the switches.

When I got my '56 Biarritz (Nice Rust was it's name) which was just a junk piece, I was surprised to note that all window's motors were still good. They are still on the car.

[Mad Scientist]

GM had no relay for the windows at the time. The whole current is going through the switches.


On the MKII each motor has is own 15 amp circuit breaker. I'm sure their goal with the relays was to limit the amount of current the switches needed to handle. Still this is a lot of wiring just to make a motor spin.

[Barry Wolk]

Thank You Barry...u talk the talk and walk the walk, the world needs many more Barry Wolks.


Wow, Thanks Stan, but my wife thinks that one is more than enough.;)

[2MarkIIs]

I just rebuilt some of my switches that were broken and they are very easy to rebuild! most of the time when they feel broken the springs inside have either broken or rusted apart, sometimes due to water damage, ie leaky windows etc. i Went to Ace Hardware and purchased an almost exact tapered spring that worked perfect. I sanded the contacts and cleaned up the chrome and they work great. I was also suprised that none of the plastic that is staked to the chrome knob weren't broken. I finished the master switches and i have more to do so i will take some pics.

[Sean Rollins]

Awsome tutorial. I have three finiky switches and was figuring I'de need to buy replacements, but I'll try this first.;)

[2MarkIIs]

Sean ill post some pics either someetime tonight or tommarow.