Don Keller
03-08-2012, 01:16 AM
An often neglected area of the Mark IIs is the seat support system. They can be comparatively easily restored at minimal cost and with minimal effort. Cadillac still hasn't gotten the workmanship down as their seats start to sag after a few years. Even Jack doesn't advertise replacement or NOS parts, so maybe it's worth considering some maintenance. No special tools are needed and the total cost of materials was less than $20. including Rustoleum paint, glue, rubber panels, and linen.
1. Below are pictures of the undersides of the back and front seats, respectively. Other than for condensation/humidity rust on the springs, the back seat was fine. The front seat was structually fine, but the black foam rubber had deteriorated to virtually nothing on the driver's side particularly. If you drive your car often, the springs will be eating into the foam and not giving even support as the panels tend to hold everything together. Note: The seat bottoms are quite lite, so it's a project you can sneak indoors when the wife is gone and work in comfort.
4550
4551
2. I'm only redoing the front seat at this time. I strongly suggest taking pictures as you will want to return or replace the staples and ties to their original locations. Before tearing the old tar-like panels out you will need to remove the staples and wire connectors from the springs (about six in total per side) and very importantly, tie some longer strings (I used some shoe strings.) onto the original strings that connects the center buttons to the springs. There will probably be two other ties on each side that will need extensions as well. If you don't do this, once you untie the original string from the spring it will slide into the foam and then you'll have to find a very long needle to get it back through and the buttons in place, etc. Pick the old panel pieces and linen ends out and vacumn out the holes in the foam. You may want to go ahead and paint the likely rusty support bars and springs. If the black cardboard in the seat center is damaged, it can be replaced as discussed on a prior link. Mine had only a small tear, so I taped it to prevent future ripping. The brown card board across the top would be easily matched as it's just regular old card board. However, it looks like one would have to completely take the seat apart to get the new piece in. They apparently enjoyed doing things like that. I suggest not messing with it unless you really have to.
4557
3. Preparing the replacement parts. First, you will likely need replacement panels, linen and glue. Of course, you may find other damage to address while you are at it. I found that a large spring had come lose under the seat and caused a flopping sound when moving the seat forward and backward. A crabgrass puller worked great for reconnecting the spring. If nothing else, the information for locating replacement black panels should please even the most particular restorer. "Hobby Lobby" sells them (see picture) for $.98 and they are exactly the correct size (12" X 18"). I actually glued two of them together to give a little more support as time tends to make everthing sag. They don't come with the holes in them though. The holes are necessary for air transfer and running the ties through. I had an old hole punch that worked great. If you don't have one, a lead pencil with the eraser removed will work just as well. Stack your panels and mark the holes as follows: Each row and collum begins 1/2" from the side and top respectively. All holes are 2" apart both horizontally and verticallly. As you will see, the foam is soft and the holes are easily made. You can punch through them all at one time. You will also need some closely woven linen or something similar for the two sides of each panel. The old ones look amazingly similar to the "Shroud of Turan" with the rust stains and all. They are 2" X 12" before folding.
4554
4555
4558
4. Now for the assembly. If you don't do these things in order, you will get some practice in removing them and redoing them...I hate doing that. First of all, you have to get the black panel in back of all the springs except the two side springs for one side of the seat. Start in the middle of the springs and work one side of the panel under the springs on that side (except the last one). You can pop most of the springs up temporarilty to help this task. Secondly, run the long string that you tied to button string through the matching hole (approximately in the middle). Now, you have to pull the other side of the black panel through the other springs (except the last one). Now, you need to glue the strips of linen to each end of the panel (only glue the bottoms). After they dry, fold the top of the linen strip over and run the other added long string through the nearest hole. Then tuck the end of the panel under the remaining end spring. Do the same thing on the other side of the panel. Now make sure that the panel is centered and attach the staples and clamps to hold the springs to the linen/panels. You will have a couple of other long strings to similarly run through holes on the sides of the panel. Tie the strings tightly to the springs with the wire clamps. You may use the attached strings, if needed, to reach.
4549
4547
5. Now may be a good time to recondition the leather, or vinyl as may be the case. You may also want to sand and repaint some of the metal understructure on the floor, but I have plenty of more obvious needs. I hope this is of benefit to some members. I think it would be great to have tutorials and pictures of all the tasks that we may face. I keep trying to contribute what I can to repay you all for all the advice and help.
4548
1. Below are pictures of the undersides of the back and front seats, respectively. Other than for condensation/humidity rust on the springs, the back seat was fine. The front seat was structually fine, but the black foam rubber had deteriorated to virtually nothing on the driver's side particularly. If you drive your car often, the springs will be eating into the foam and not giving even support as the panels tend to hold everything together. Note: The seat bottoms are quite lite, so it's a project you can sneak indoors when the wife is gone and work in comfort.
4550
4551
2. I'm only redoing the front seat at this time. I strongly suggest taking pictures as you will want to return or replace the staples and ties to their original locations. Before tearing the old tar-like panels out you will need to remove the staples and wire connectors from the springs (about six in total per side) and very importantly, tie some longer strings (I used some shoe strings.) onto the original strings that connects the center buttons to the springs. There will probably be two other ties on each side that will need extensions as well. If you don't do this, once you untie the original string from the spring it will slide into the foam and then you'll have to find a very long needle to get it back through and the buttons in place, etc. Pick the old panel pieces and linen ends out and vacumn out the holes in the foam. You may want to go ahead and paint the likely rusty support bars and springs. If the black cardboard in the seat center is damaged, it can be replaced as discussed on a prior link. Mine had only a small tear, so I taped it to prevent future ripping. The brown card board across the top would be easily matched as it's just regular old card board. However, it looks like one would have to completely take the seat apart to get the new piece in. They apparently enjoyed doing things like that. I suggest not messing with it unless you really have to.
4557
3. Preparing the replacement parts. First, you will likely need replacement panels, linen and glue. Of course, you may find other damage to address while you are at it. I found that a large spring had come lose under the seat and caused a flopping sound when moving the seat forward and backward. A crabgrass puller worked great for reconnecting the spring. If nothing else, the information for locating replacement black panels should please even the most particular restorer. "Hobby Lobby" sells them (see picture) for $.98 and they are exactly the correct size (12" X 18"). I actually glued two of them together to give a little more support as time tends to make everthing sag. They don't come with the holes in them though. The holes are necessary for air transfer and running the ties through. I had an old hole punch that worked great. If you don't have one, a lead pencil with the eraser removed will work just as well. Stack your panels and mark the holes as follows: Each row and collum begins 1/2" from the side and top respectively. All holes are 2" apart both horizontally and verticallly. As you will see, the foam is soft and the holes are easily made. You can punch through them all at one time. You will also need some closely woven linen or something similar for the two sides of each panel. The old ones look amazingly similar to the "Shroud of Turan" with the rust stains and all. They are 2" X 12" before folding.
4554
4555
4558
4. Now for the assembly. If you don't do these things in order, you will get some practice in removing them and redoing them...I hate doing that. First of all, you have to get the black panel in back of all the springs except the two side springs for one side of the seat. Start in the middle of the springs and work one side of the panel under the springs on that side (except the last one). You can pop most of the springs up temporarilty to help this task. Secondly, run the long string that you tied to button string through the matching hole (approximately in the middle). Now, you have to pull the other side of the black panel through the other springs (except the last one). Now, you need to glue the strips of linen to each end of the panel (only glue the bottoms). After they dry, fold the top of the linen strip over and run the other added long string through the nearest hole. Then tuck the end of the panel under the remaining end spring. Do the same thing on the other side of the panel. Now make sure that the panel is centered and attach the staples and clamps to hold the springs to the linen/panels. You will have a couple of other long strings to similarly run through holes on the sides of the panel. Tie the strings tightly to the springs with the wire clamps. You may use the attached strings, if needed, to reach.
4549
4547
5. Now may be a good time to recondition the leather, or vinyl as may be the case. You may also want to sand and repaint some of the metal understructure on the floor, but I have plenty of more obvious needs. I hope this is of benefit to some members. I think it would be great to have tutorials and pictures of all the tasks that we may face. I keep trying to contribute what I can to repay you all for all the advice and help.
4548