remote starter

[roger]

I'm trying to hook up an under the hood remote starter, for maintenance purposes. The hook up directions doesn't seem to fit the Mark II. Can anyone tell me the hook up connections for the remote starter.
Thank

[Barry Wolk]

Are you speaking of the hand-held pushbutton starters? If so, one clip goes on the cable that leads to the positive side of the battery and the other goes to the starter lead of the solenoid. There are two small and two big wires. One of the small wires goes to the coil and the other goes to the ignition switch wire. It's the wire from the ignition switch that you want to power. Keep the ignition off or the car will start.

[roger]

Yes, it is the pushbutton 2 lead remote. Thanks very much

[SLK]

Yes, it is the pushbutton 2 lead remote. Thanks very much

It still might not work unless you have installed the switch that allows you to start in park.

[Barry Wolk]

I forgot about that.:o Put it in neutral after setting the brake and chocking the wheels.

[roger]

Thanks, hooked it up as you said and it worked fine (still couldn't get the engine to start, but the remote starter worked great)

[Don Henschel]

Did you have your ignition key turned on? It will crank but your coil won't get juice.

[Don Henschel]

It still might not work unless you have installed the switch that allows you to start in park.

Not needed if you go staight to the starter solenoid with this type of test switch and of course if you are in reverse or drive it can start and drive!

[roger]

Did you have your ignition key turned on? It will crank but your coil won't get juice.

Yes, I ran it both ways.
Thanks for the input

[Barry Wolk]

Had you pulled the distributor? If you did it could be a tooth or 180° off. Do you have a timing light?

[roger]

Barry, I believe that is the problem. I believe I got the dist. back in, one tooth off. I do have a timing light and will be checking it this weekend. Thanks for your help!

[roger]

Got it started, the distributor was off. Now the carb. is gummed up!

[Mad Scientist]

Ah now its time to try some carburetor cleaner and then add about 5 ounces of acetone to a full tank of gas.

[Barry Wolk]

I'd advise a temporary HUGE gas filter. You don't want to know what came out of my gas tank on my boat after a gallon of acetone. BTW, that's the only thing that worked.

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/barry2952/CC%20Continental%20restoration/IMG_1940.jpg

[depmike38]

On old vehicles that have been dormant in addition to the normal filter I add a temp between the tank and pump to catch it before the gunk hits the fuel pump.

[depmike38]

I'd advise a temporary HUGE gas filter. You don't want to know what came out of my gas tank on my boat after a gallon of acetone. BTW, that's the only thing that worked.

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/barry2952/CC%20Continental%20restoration/IMG_1940.jpg

Barry, how long do you leave it in before dumping it and does it require a second application or do you wash it out with fuel?

[Barry Wolk]

My final rinse was acetone. I left it in different positions for a few hours and overnight coating the bottom. What came out looked and smelled gross.

I then acid treated the metal and used a liquid gas tank liner.

It went from this (after using up Eastwood's cleaner).

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/barry2952/CC%20Continental%20restoration/IMG_1924.jpg

To this, after two soaks and a rinse with acetone.

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/barry2952/CC%20Continental%20restoration/IMG_1944.jpg

To this, after liner was installed.

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/barry2952/CC%20Continental%20restoration/IMG_1953.jpg

[depmike38]

Which liner/sealant did you use? I used Bill Hirsch product on my pick-ups tank over 15 years ago and it's still fine but I'm sure there are new things out.

[Barry Wolk]

It was Eastwood's tank liner kit. The cleaner worked for crap.

[Don Henschel]

Ah now its time to try some carburetor cleaner and then add about 5 ounces of acetone to a full tank of gas.

Please dont !!(IMHO)Save your fuel pump from possible damage! Take the drain plug out of the tank first and see what comes out. It might not be that bad. I rebuilt my carb in 93 and my tank was fairly clean. I didnt exercise my car much in the past 3 years and my gas turned a bit sour. My teapot started overflowing when I started my car to back out for pictures for appraisal. I did a partial disassembly of my carb on the car and the needle and seat was stuck wide open with varnish! The bottom of my carb including the metering jets was covered with a layer of varnish as well. I purchased a spray can of carb cleaner and soaked everything within the bowl and let it sit including the needle and seat etc. in a small container. I used a small siphon gun (like a blow gun with a hose you stick in a pail of solvent) to suck out the dissolved varnish. I did this several times until clean, blew through the passages etc. and reassembled the carb. I then drained the gas from the tank (you have a drain plug on your tank on the front passenger side in case you didnt know) and refilled with premium. The car now runs like a top and later on I will remove the carb and do a complete rebuild. And yes I have the blue accelerator pump plunger still in and working after all these years. My 50 Merc was in the same state not being exercised in 4 years and did the same thing to it. If your tank is varnished up like Barry has shown do yourself a very big favor and remove it. Use some accetone in it and blast it clean with a steam cleaner or high pressure washer. You could possibly take it to an engine rebuilder and get it dunked in a hot tank. I hear all these comments about the teapot and all the problems etc. Mine works very well and I didnt find it that hard to rebuild (and I actually like it)! Purchase a rebuild kit, use a clean work bench, and very carefully remove, disassemble (watch out for your accelerator pump check ball or plunger, and other springs etc. and count how many turns your idle screws are set at) and clean your carb. You could probably soak your disassembled carburator in a bucket of accetone, or just buy a small pail of carburator cleaner (the gunk in a pail with a basket). After cleaning, blow out all the passages with an air compressor and install your carb kit. If you are worried about how it goes together take alot of pictures as you disassemble, and take your time! The main thing to look out for is water damage or badly worn throttle shafts. They will still work fine with a small amount of wear on the throttle shafts! Don't remove the throttle shafts if you dont have to.
Here is a complete repair manual for repair.....help yourselves to it and read it!
http://www.tocmp.com/manuals/Carbs/Holley/H4000/C228/index.htm
http://www.tocmp.com/manuals/Carbs/Holley/H4000/C228-1/pages/MCarbHollFLM__56-C228-1-001_jpg.htm

[Don Henschel]

Another thing to mention (after my long winded post above:rolleyes:)
The diaphragm
http://www.tocmp.com/manuals/Carbs/Holley/H4000/C228/pages/MCarbHollFLM__55-C228-020_jpg.htm
is not included in the rebuild kit and I am positive it is the same diaphragm used on all the newer Holley vacuum secondary carbs. If you order a kit, order the diaphram as well. To make things a bit simpler mark your choke thermostat position before you remove the housing. Also very carefully insert your accelerator piston without cutting or folding over the sealing lip! A small amount of lube might help.

[Don Henschel]

Sorry, my apologies to the Carter WCFB owners for forgetting about you.
http://www.carburetor.ca/carbs/tech/Carter/wcfb-service.pdf
Another very good manual!