Vacuum Antenna

[Shelly Harris]

With emory cloth and some sand paper I cleaned up the antenna. WOW... is it long enough? The mast rises and lowers freely by hand, but sad to say the motor only lifts it about 6" and stops. Doesn't do anything with switch for down. Not too hard to get a hand in there and connecting the vacuum lines. But theres a third long vac line that goes into the fender through the hole and down. A long one down into the fender and I'm wondering where it goes? It would be nice to get at that motor without unbolting the fender.

[Barry Wolk]

Not gonna happen. Trust me. I have the longest arms you've ever seen and I couldn't do it through the opening.:mad:

[Shelly Harris]

How about removing the passenger side heater core and fan... looks like you can get to it that way?

Also... the motor lifts the mast about a foot then stops, height doesn't hold and it drops down when under way... no motor down movement. Still think its the small disc thingy?

[Mad Scientist]

How about removing the passenger side heater core and fan... looks like you can get to it that way? Nope.

Also... the motor lifts the mast about a foot then stops, height doesn't hold and it drops down when under way... no motor down movement. Still think its the small disc thingy?

I had mine out to clean and check the core for leaks and no that will not give you access. Also you really do not what to take out the heater core unless you really have to, at the time I did it I had the engine out and was able to walk into the engine compartment to get at it and it was still a pain in the butt to do.

The fender has two mounting bolts at the bottom corner near the door. If you remove them you might be able to pull the fender out enough to get your hand in there. Also there is another mounting bolt on top behind the hinge for the hood that you might try loosening.

However before you do that I would check out the vacuum switch under the dash.;) If the antenna is going down all by itself it could be a leaky switch/valve.:)

The way I got my antenna out was I first removed the engine and exhaust system and was then able to reach my arm through the opening for the exhaust pipe and put a wrench onto the nut and screw holding the clamp. Naturally when I try to unscrew the nut the screw turned right along with it. There was literally no way to hold the screw and turn the nut at the same time. I wound up tie-wrapping a small die grinder to a length of threaded rod and ever so tediously ground the nut off of the screw.:eek:

Once the antenna was out dissembling, cleaning and putting it back together was not a problem.;)

[Barry Wolk]

You can not get the fender to move enough unless you take out all the bolts I spoke of. Trust me.

[Matthew]

I have read other posts with regards to the Mark II vacuum system, and related devices. The power antenna on my '56 Mark II will go up without hesitation, but when I push the activator switch the other way (ie to retract it), nothing happens. Have any others out there experienced this problem? Thanks for your input.

[Nick DeSpirito]

Matt,

If it goes up without hesitation like you say, I would check the vacuum hose connected to the bottom of the antenna housing to see if it's connected and also at the switch. and check the hose for deterioration or leakage. Also, check to see if you have vacuum at the antenna end of the hose and the hole at the connection on the housing is clear. If the hose is OK and you do have vacuum, then you might want to check out the switch itself.

[Barry Wolk]

I'll bet the hoses are installed incorrectly on the switch. Find the vacuum hoses and remove them. Start the car. You'll have suction at one of the hoses. Install it on one of the ports on the switch. Flip the switch to one way. You will always hear vacuum with the engine running. Now flip it the other. If you hear vacuum the vacuum hose is on the right port. If you don't hear vacuum at both open ports, move the vacuum hose to another port and repeat. There are only three so you'll have to try this only once more.

Once you determine the proper vacuum hose is on the proper port , it doesn't matter which hose goes on the remaining ports. That's a matter of personal preference. Some people have them set up so that pulling the switch handle towards you raises the antenna, I've seen it set up the oppoite way, too.

Trial and error will get you there. But this method always work, and explains why yours doesn't.

[Old-Timer]

A vacumn hose may deteriorate onthe inside.
It may look just fine on the outside, but it may be all clogged up on the inside.
Blow thru both ends to make sure it is clear.
Or just replace for the hell of it.

John.

[naifmakol]

Hi, can anyone recommend a good vacuum antenna rebuilder wih contact info for the MK II? Thanks.
Naif Makol

[Barry Wolk]

What's wrong with yours? Are you sure it's the antenna? There's a disc of plastic or phoenelic that shuts the vacuum valve. There's not much more to it. I have to redo mine because the plastic I used curled. The next time I'll use a stiffer material that's impervious to lubricants.

If it's the mast you might need help. If you're patient you can get bent ones to work.

[Shelly Harris]

Somewhere Barry has a post describing the difficulty of reaching and removing the antenna. Check that out before going further. You may just resign yourself to go w/o a motorized antenna.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Hi, can anyone recommend a good vacuum antenna rebuilder wih contact info for the MK II? Thanks.
Naif Makol

Do you know Klaus Wojak? He can be reached at 828-898-9338, 1:30-6:30. He is living in North Carolina. He is an old gentleman; his work is fantastic.
I bought several antennas from him; I was never disapointed.

[Nick DeSpirito]

Roger is correct. Klaus rebuilt mine back in 1989 and it is still working. Check Hemmings for his contact info. He always posts an ad in that publication.

[naifmakol]

Thanks guys, I used Klaus before on an electric antenna on my '60 continental convert. Does he work on vacuum antennas too?? Thanks.
Naif

[Mad Scientist]

Repairing the antenna is fairly simple. Getting it out of the fender is not so simple. Are you sure it is not a bad hose or switch/valve connection?

[Roger Zimmermann]

Thanks guys, I used Klaus before on an electric antenna on my '60 continental convert. Does he work on vacuum antennas too?? Thanks.
Naif
Yes, definitively.

[Nick DeSpirito]

I didn't know he worked on electric. I thought he only worked on vacuum antennas.

[Rex]

Hi, Group,

I have been searching the threads for Barry's post on removing the antenna, and I have been unable to find it. It appears the entire fender must be loosened to remove the antenna, but I don't want to remove any more than I have to. I am sending my antenna to Mr. Wojak who does superb work. If anyone can point me to the post about removing the antenna, I'd be appreciative.

Thanks,

Rex Crews Durham, NC

[Shelly Harris]

Here is the thread...

http://www.markiiforum.com/showthread.php?p=141&highlight=remove+antenna#post141

Please let us know your progress in getting the antenna out. I have this project on the back burner and have avoided it as I'm scared to death of trowing the fender out of alighnment.

[Rex]

Shelly,

Believe me, that scares me as well! but mine does not work at all as it is badly bent and the lead in is messed up.

Rex Crews

[Barry Wolk]

The instructions posted are incomplete so I'll try this from memory.

1. Remove bottom trim by removing nuts from behind the rocker panel.

2. Remove two nuts and bolts that hold the bottom of the fender to the rocker.

3. Remove two bolts from rear side of inner fender well

4. Remove bolt at top of fender near windshield.

5. Remove kick panel on passenger side. This will give you access to one more bolt. Remove it.

6. Loosen the bracket bolts at the front of the fender. This will take the tension off the sheet metal.

You should now be able to pull the fender outward enough to get to the vacuum lines. You could simply have a cracked line. Cut off an inch and plug it back onto the nipple. There are two lines. Applying vacuum to the upper makes the antenna rise.

If that's not the problem then you must remove the bezel on the fender, the cable and the screw and nut from the clamp at the base of the tube. you can pry open the clamp and pull the antenna out between the door and the fender. I believe it helps to open the door slightly.

I did this myself. I wish I had had help. I wish my help had a lot smaller hands and forearms than I. I was barely able to complete the task. I believe I used a 90° ratcheting screwdriver to remove the straight blade screw. I replaced it with a Phillips for ease or tightening in that awkward position.

I can give instruction on repairing the antenna itself, if you'd like.

[Rex]

Hi, Barry and Group,

Thanks for this help. My antenna is toast. It has no manual tension/pressure either up or down,and I am assuming this is like most vacuum antennas on old cars I have owned. While extended the antenna caught something and was bent, plus the lead-in cable is damaged. The radio will only play with the bend in the antenna adjusted to one spot. If I go over a bump, there goes the radio; so, this is beyond the luxury of simply raising the antenna. Thank goodness this is a nice driver and not a show car, or I'd be really intimidated trying to remove it.

I shall report back to the group when the task is complete. Klaus Wojak quoted a fair price on the rebuild,which I think would be within the range of trying to switch to electric.

Thanks everyone!

Rex Crews Durham,NC

[Don Henschel]

What's wrong with yours? Are you sure it's the antenna? There's a disc of plastic or phoenelic that shuts the vacuum valve. There's not much more to it. I have to redo mine because the plastic I used curled. The next time I'll use a stiffer material that's impervious to lubricants.

If it's the mast you might need help. If you're patient you can get bent ones to work.

Any Idea where one cold get a new mast? I rebuilt my antenna- it had a slight dent in the tube and dried out grease. It now works great but my mast is missing the ball on top and is a bit worn.

[chris cimarusti]

Rex:Page 93 of Buddy's restorers Guide has a detailed description. I can copy the page for you if you don't haver access to a copy.

Klaus did my antenna and it works perfectly!!

Best regards, Chris Cimarusti

[SLK]

I've noticed that others state that their antenna doesn't retract all the way, yet mine does.

Is that the case for everyone?

[Barry Wolk]

Yours should not. It could simply be a shorter replacement mast, or, from what I recall, the original mast could have been shortened. Fully extend it and take a measurement. I'll compare that to mine.

I contemplated extending the tube, but there was no room within the fender. They may have used a stock mast with a shorter tube, leaving us with an ugly antenna.

When I first got my car I was confused by the fact that the inner wands would not go up by themselves.

BTW, has anyone used the antenna trimmer on the radio?

[Roger Zimmermann]

I've noticed that others state that their antenna doesn't retract all the way, yet mine does.

Is that the case for everyone?
From the design, it cannot. As far as I can remember with the Cadillac antennas till 1955, the mast is in 2 pieces. The vacuum piston is operating the thinner mast; the larger one is to be retracted by hand. To retract both pieces with the vacuum piston, it should have a double travel or some multiplicator inside the tube.
The problem went away with the electric antenna; the nylon cord inside is rolled on a drum; there is (almost) no limit to the travel.

With a very short antenna, both elements can be retracted if the length of the antenna completely deployed is equal to the travel of the piston.

[Barry Wolk]

On the Mark II the outer shaft is the one that moves and you pull the inner shafts up by hand.

[Roger Zimmermann]

On the Mark II the outer shaft is the one that moves and you pull the inner shafts up by hand.


Could be also that way on Cadillac antennas; it was maybe for 10 years that I got the last one from Klaus Wojak!

[SLK]

Yours should not. It could simply be a shorter replacement mast, or, from what I recall, the original mast could have been shortened. Fully extend it and take a measurement. I'll compare that to mine.


Not to brag, but my antenna was 39 inches. Yours? :p

[Barry Wolk]

Was? Did it shrink?:D

[SLK]

It's still cold up here in Northern NY. We have snow in the forecast for the weekend.

[Barry Wolk]

Dude, you must have a stubby. Fully erect, mine is 68".:eek:

[Matthew]

Hi Barry
A few posts back you asked about the antenna trimmer on the T&C radio.
When I restored my Mark II and reinstalled the rebuilt radio, it sounded like Sh**. I then remebered the trimmer, and tweaked it while thw antenna was extended, and instant improvement!!

[Barry Wolk]

I noticed the '50 Stude in your sig. That's the year and model that brought me home from the hospital.

[Matthew]

Barry- Why not relive those precious memories and buy it? It would be a definite 'oddity' among your impressive stable of cars...
Seriously, in going to shows with that car, more people came home from the hospital in Studebakers than I ever imagined...maybe they should have made a 'maternity model' to avoid extinction.
There is an excellent Studebaker museum in South Bend...new building and impressive collection.

[Barry Wolk]

Been there, done that, bought the t-shirt. That's where I learned the term "tinker" referred to the sound the blacksmith's made when they were hammering the steel for their buggies.

My father graduated from college in '50 and his parents gave him a new Stude for a wedding present/graduation present. I came along in '52.

[Will Hawk]

I need help. How do I remove the antenna????? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[Barry Wolk]

Hi Will,

Moved post to existing thread.

[Ian Cowie]

Here's the info extracted from the Continental Mark II Restorer's Guide:
(you can download but it is 228 pages and 15MB)
Also search the forums as mentioned by Barry

Q. How do I get that @*%#%$*+ radio antenna off IT\Y jVT..ark II? Asked by dozens.
A. The removal is not simple but here is the answer: Remove the right rocker panel mldg. from the car or at least rem ove half the clips that hold it on. On the botton of the rearpart of the fender, on the underside and back side, are two 1/2" nuts that must be removed. Now, go inside the auto and take off the rirJ1t side lr...1ck panel, releasing part of the glove box. Half way up the fender, inside the kick panel, is another 1/2" nut that must be taken off. Be careful you don',t drop 1t. Outside the auto again, remove the 1/2" bolt from the top rear of the fender. Now use very thick tape (or several layers of masking tape) and apply this to the edge of the fender and door to avoid scratching the paint. By this time you should have been working on the job about an hour. Now, raise up on the fender at the rear and pUll out on the rear top. This will releas'e the rear of the fender. Use a wedge of sorre sort to hold the fender out so you can "wedge" your arm and hand behind the fender. At the bottom of the vacuum antenna there is a clamp with a small bolt and nut t hat must be removed, also disconnect the vacuum hose at the top and bottom. Now, at the top of the antenna 2 small screws hold the antenna lead-in wire, disconnect. Unscrew the chrome bezel and your antenna will come through the bottom of the fender.

[depmike38]

I've noticed that others state that their antenna doesn't retract all the way, yet mine does.

Is that the case for everyone?

I looked all through this post and didn't see a definitive answer but could someone with a working original antenna measure it from the top of the trim bezel to the tip open and closed and advise as to what the measurements should be. thanks, Mike:confused:

[Barry Wolk]

All of the original pictures I've seen show it sticking up about 6". I've had mine apart. It is operating correctly.

[Nick DeSpirito]

Mine works and sticks out a half a foot like Barry's. They don't retract all the way.

Ben, do you know if your unit has been replaced? Does it work by vacuum?