Pertronix Ignition

[Barry Wolk]

The best thing you can do for your Mark II that's totally reversible is to install a high-energy electronic ignition from Pertronix. Make sure that you ask for the unit for the Pertronix II for the Mark II, not Lincoln, as they are slightly different, I know not why, but they are.

It is a very simple installation. The only skills needed are to know which end of a screwdriver to use and to know how to time the engine.

1. Remove distributor cap and rotor.

2. Remove points assembly.

3. Remove the wire that lads to the coil, leaving a clear passage for the two Pertronix wires.

4. Install electronic pick-up in place of the points using the same attachment points. The black and red wires exit out the vacant hole. I had to do a little trimming on the rubber grommet to accommodate two wires where there had been one. The red wire leading to the coil is a dead giveaway so covering it with a piece of black heat shrink tubing makes everything look original. The black wire has to go to a good ground somewhere on the engine.

5. Press magnet collar over the cam lobes. It's position doesn't matter as each lobe has its own magnet that triggers the ignition system.

6. Install new rotor

7. Install new distributor cap.

8. Replace spark plug wires with hi-energy wires from Pertronix, available in black. Use the old wires as a guide. Install them through the retainers in the exact path as the old ones as there's a bulletin that a certain combination of wires in the harness will make the car miss.

9. Replace the spark plugs with dual platinum tip plugs. Open the gap to .045 instead of the standard gap. The larger, hotter, spark gives a much cleaner burn at idle, eliminating the standard tail-pipe stink of cars of the era.

10. Install "hot" coil. Some cars need the ballast resistor hooked up and other don't. Consult directions.

11. Adjust your timing. The only time you'll ever have to do this again is when your timing chain wears out.

This is about as close to a permanent tune up as you can do.

[Shelly Harris]

To Barry's excellent instructions I would add one tip:

Before you do anything, put a timing light on and make sure you can see the timing marks on the crank pulley... you'll see the pointer when standing on the passenger side of the car and looking down at the crank pulley at the very bottom of the front of the engine. You might have to pull the main power wire out of the center of the coil (so the engine doesn't start) while you jerk the crank pulley around to a visible position by turning the crank in short spurts using the ignition key (switch). When you get the marks in view chalk up or paint up the 5 degrees Before Top Center (5 BTC). Mine was near impossible to see. These marks were probably not very distinct when the car was new, now that we're dealing with it 55 years later with rust, etc. well, good luck. Each mark on the pulley is suppose to be 2 degrees. The first one is Top Dead Center (TDC) then the next mark is 2 degrees BTC, then 4 BTC, then 6 BTC. You want to get it at 5, so that's between the 4 and 6 marks. Also, the crank spins clockwise (when you'r standing in the front of the engine, looking over the radiator) so when you see the group of marks, about 10 or 15 of them, all in a group on the pulley, the first one on the left side of the group is TDC.

After you install the Pertronix Ignitor set the timing. When timing take off the vacuum line at the distributor. Loosen the clamp down on the distributor at it's base. Let it idle somewhere around 500 rpm, with your timing light pulsing on the crank pulley marks, rotate the distributor and get spark plug #1 on the 5 BTC mark. Turn engine off. Clamp down the distributor. Fire the engine up again and recheck. Reinstall the vacuum line.

Also in Barry's instructions he states putting the black wire off the Pertronix on a grnd (negative). Specifically you connect it to the Negative (-) contact of the coil.

I'm completing this job tomorrow morning and I'll post up any additional info,

[Barry Wolk]

I knew I'd miss something. I did mine 6 years ago.

Four pumps on the gas, turn the key and it starts up every time. Tail pipe stink is gone.

Another tip for you. While you're under the hood, pull the fuse for the interior lights and the clock (same fuse) and your battery will never go dead.

[Ian Cowie]

Barry ... on step 10, Install "hot" coil.
Why is the word hot in quotes and what do you mean by "hot" coil?
I am having stumbling problems (from a standstill) and when the car gets hot (15-20 minutes of running) the performance sucks and climbing a hill the car will only do say 40 mph and further depressing the throttle simply causes backfiring! I am suspecting the coil but that is just a semi educated guess. I'm an engineer not a mechanic!
Thanks.
Ian

[Matthew]

Hi everyone. I'm new to the forum, and interested in exploring the 'Pertronix' system for my '56 Mark II. I was wondering if any of you know the part number(s) for this conversion. I visited the Pertronix site, and looked at the catalogue, but came away confused...I saw listings for 1956 Lincoln, but nothing spacifically referencing Mark II.
Thanks
Matthew

[Barry Wolk]

Call them and tell them what you have. If you have the dual chamber distributor, please tell them that. It's different from the '56 Lincoln as they added a tach drive for the Continental.

Welcome to the site.

[Shelly Harris]

I will be finishing my install this weekend and will supply all the necessary information. Getting the right Ignitor is crucial... and I can give you some tips once I know for sure mine is running right. I have all sorts of information at my weekend digs and I'll post it up then.

[Matthew]

Thanks Barry & Shelly...I appreciate your help / input.
Regards
Matthew

[Shelly Harris]

Here's some final tips on installing the Ignitor from Petronix.

You must have the correct model. First decide whether you want to install the Ignitor I or Ignitor II. The difference in price is small. Barry installed an Ignitor II and I installed Ignitor I. Go to the Petronix web site and decide what you want.

Most importantly you must know whether your car has a distributor used in the 1956 cars or the one used in the 1957. Don't take anything for granted. My job got stalled for three weeks because I mistakenly thought my '56 had a '56 distributor... no it has a '57. The easiest way to tell is the size of the rotor shaft inside the distributor. The '57s have a larger shaft which is 5/8" diameter. Additionally the '57 MAY have only one vacuum chamber on the side. The '56 distributor has a small diameter shaft and will have a double vacuum chamber on the its side. If yours looks like the picture attached, then yours is a 1957.

Once you have the correct distributor information here is the right Ignitor for you:

Ignitor I >>>>> 1956 Petronix #1282, MarkIIParts #EN0415PT1

Ignitor I >>>>> 1957 Petronix #1281, MarkIIParts #EN0415PT

Ignitor II >>>>> 1956 Petronix #91282

Ignitor II >>>>> 1957 Petronix #91281

If you plan on using your stock coil with the outboard resistor then you MUST use Ignitor I.

You can use a HOT coil (40,000 Volts -- Pertronix #40011) or similar with Ignitor I, but make sure its a "points style" coil with 1.5 ohm internal resistance. You will not use the outboard resistor. You cannot use an "HEI" type coil with Ignitor I. Keep your spark plugs gapped at .35

With Ignitor II you can use Petronix's hottest coil (45,000 Volts - Pertronix #45011) and you can increase the spark plug gap to .45

During the installation you will remove your old points and the condenser. Make sure you note the internal ground wire from the mounting plate to the side of the distributor case. If you remove it while taking off the points be sure it is re-attached securely.

Keeping the original look: The coils I have mentioned are all black and can be mounted with labelling towards the firewall so that all appears original. You can even leave the original ballast resistor mounted but not connected in the circuit.

Change out your dist. cover and rotor cap, keeping the old ones for emergency spares. You might as well change out the wires too. Go with platinum spark plugs. Before changing plugs.... if you have any thoughts about cleaning your carb with Gumout spray or similar then do it before changing plugs.

[Update.... Read this thread throughly to the end. You will learn why you should use the Ignitor II and not a Ignitor I]

[Barry Wolk]

The difference between Pertronix I and II is that Pertronix I does not have the protective circuit that Pertronix II has. If you accidently leave your ignition switch in the on position for too long the module burns up and you are stuck in the middle of nowhere. I'd carry a spare.

Curious as to why you chose the P I unit?

In addition, I'd install dual platinum plugs. That, plus Pertronix is pretty much a lifetime tune-up.

[Matthew]

Thanks guys...all extemely helpful information...I spoke with one of the techies at Pertronix, and he pretty much blew me off when I suggested a difference existed between the Lincoln and the Continental...'all the same' according to him.
Barry, can you tell me which brand of dual point platinum spark plugs you are using?
Thanks again Shelly/ Barry...I guess I'll give it a go on my '56 (C56F3009).
Have a good weekend.
Matthew

[Barry Wolk]

Sorry, I don't remember the brand of plug.

[Shelly Harris]

I have a set of Auto Lite APP46 waiting to be installed. I'll let you know how they work out. I have used Gumout spray down the carb's throat and am now running a tank of gas with carb cleaner additive. Once that's done I'll install the plugs.

I originally ordered the Ignitor I, thinking I'd go with the stock coil and ballast resistor for originality. Later I bought a hot coil. If I was starting over I'd go with Ignitor II.

However, I have no problem recommending Ignitor I. I installed Ignitor I's in all of the old VW Beetles I owned and never had a failure. The improvement in the Mark's engine was immediate and very noticeable.

{UPDATE: Keeping reading this thread to its end and you learn why the Ignitor I should not be used]

[Barry Wolk]

I totally disagree. Pertronix I are the bane of the Porsche 356 crowd. They are highly recommended as landfill material. They seem to work OK on a 12-volt car but perform very poorly with a 6-volt car. They cut out at 5.2 volts and the car just won't start via the starter. They work great if you push-start them.:rolleyes:

The Porsche 356 guys have a love/hate relationship with them. The cars run great while they work, but many carry a spare distributor for a fast swap on the road.:eek: I went back to points.

[MKII]

Following with this thread, I am considering changing to a Pertronix II ignition. Can anybody reccomend a source for ordering one? Though I live in Mexico, I plan on attending Hershey next week and it would be great to order it and send it to my hotel.

Thanks,
Victor

[Shelly Harris]

try this::

http://www.ase-supply.com/pertronix_s/60.htm

[MKII]

Thanks Shelly:

I already browsed their site and curiously the don't list the 45,000 volt coil. I already sent them a question.

I've heard wonders about the Pertronix units, but right now my Mark II drives soooo nicely that I am not sure if I will install it or not. Does it really make for a noticeable difference?

Thanks again and regards,
Victor

[Barry Wolk]

Hi Victor,

My tailpipe emissions stunk very badly. My car's were even worse. Using the high voltage coil allowed me to open the spark plug gap to .045, creating a larger, hotter spark. It produced a much more complete burn at idle and increased my mileage noticeably. I suppose you could do the same thing with points, but I don't know if they'd hold up.

Does a higher voltage coil put any more stress on points?

[Chuck Lutz]

OK, I'm in. I just ordered the package from Lincoln Land. I'll still need to get the plugs and wires. Sounds like an "easy enough" conversion with lot on bennies. The thing I'm looking forward the most is getting rid of the stench of the exhaust at idle.
The question that comes to mind for me is does the burning hotter and cleaner have a negative effect on the valves or put undue stress on the motor.
I'm guessing these motors were pretty high performance when they were installed but I don't want this little "blue pill" to blow the roof off the old man.
I can't wait to see how it works.

[Barry Wolk]

The Y-block was a truck engine. Plenty tough.

[Mad Scientist]

There are no negatives to making this change.
Your engine will love you for it.:)

[Chuck Lutz]

I'm in the middle of the coversion and I find that Lincoln Land sent me the 91281 Module of the Ignitor II. I asked for the part for the 1956 Mark II. Shelly listed this one as the correct one for 57. I've looked at both parts pictures in the Pertronix website and the only visual difference seems to be a mounting plate at the bottom.
Before I get the car all apart, can someone confirm that the part I have will still screw in and work?
Shelly, how'd the Autolite plugs work out and do you feel a difference?

[Shelly Harris]

I have yet to install the plugs. Still waiting for my carb. You MUST have the correct Pertronix based on which distributor you have. Look at the dist rotator shaft. The 1957 is larger than the '56. Use the part numbers I posted earlier... these are different from one another.. the difference in the mounting plates is CRUCIAL.

[Chuck Lutz]

OK, I'll get it sent back and exchanged. Seems that I do have the 56 distributor as it's got the double vac pods. Thanks.

[Chuck Lutz]

Ok, the correct Ignitor II model for the 56 Mark II is on the way. I got talked out of the Auotlite APP46 platinum plugs at the auto parts house. Said it was a waste on the old engine. Figured I'd cross that bridge later but I would like to hear differing opinions.

[Mad Scientist]

I personally like NGK's v-power. They they have a lower resistance (approx. 6000 ohm) hence a hotter spark.

Although I had an old Champion with infinite resistance :eek: and it was still firing.

[CarMan]

On my '64 GTO I have the electronic ignition from Echlin (sold at Napa part # TP349). It's used with the car's stock points style coil with minimum primary resistance 1.5 ohms. Been working fine with my car for many months now since it was put it in. This ignitor can be installed in applications with a ballast resistor or resistance wire.

I was afraid to get the unit from Pertronix because I heard from a mechanic that a number of them haven't worked right. People wound up switching back to the original points and condenser system on their cars. Could have just been bad parts I guess?

[Shelly Harris]

So far mine has worked great. My carb is due back this week and by next week end I should be up and rolling again. I think Barry wrote earlier of the 6 volt Porches that had trouble with the Pertronix Ignitor I. Any member's experience with the Pertronix is welcome.

[Chuck Lutz]

As a matter of fact... I do have a few comments.
Today was the day to convert to electronic ignition. As Barry pointed out in one of the first postings of this subject, it's bacically pretty simple. The old points came out, the new 91282 unit for my 56 car and distributor went in without too much thinking (for which I'm grateful). Red wire to + with the battery side wire from the starter silenoid and black wire to the -. Everything buttoned up and let's give it a try. No dice. Car would start and quit. Start and quit. I continued to tinker and check and re-check for most of the afternoon. At one point I shut everything down and gave up. I pulled out my manuals and read. As I traced the wiring diagrams and compared to what I had nothing popped out. I paid little attention to the old resistor that Pertronix recommened be abandoned but then something jumped out at me. One of the wires from the ignition switch went to the old resistor bar but was now just disconnected. In my attempts to start the car, it seemed to run while I held the key on but would quickly kill when released. Now it was starting to make some sense. I jumped the lonely wire to the + side of the coill and the car fired right up. I felt both stupid and releaved.
There is a noticable difference with the new ignition and 45k coil I just wished I'd realized that I needed that darn wire just after lunch instead of just before evening cocktails.

[Phil Gevertz]

Chuck, what is the cost to make this conversion ( in parts) and how long to install?

[Chuck Lutz]

Phil - The cost of the Pertronix II #91282 (for the 56 Distributor) unit was about $110, the Pertronix "Flame-Thrower II #45011 45kv coil is about $38.
Both Mark II and Linclon Land list the ignition in their parts list without parts numbers. I ordered my first set from L/L but when it arrived it was (as I later found out from Shelly) for the 57 distributor. #9I281.
As for time, I had all the parts off and in within an hour (without changing wires or plugs). The rest of the afternoon was figuring out that I need the ignition switch wire on the coil too. Another point that I forgot to mention previously was that there is a ground wire inside the distributor that goes back to the attaching screw from which it came when you install the new ignition.

[Shelly Harris]

One of the wires from the ignition switch went to the old resistor bar but was now just disconnected.

Yes, the wire from the ignition switch to the (+) side of the coil is a MUST!. Original wiring has a "ballast resistor" in series with this wire and should be removed as long as you're replacing with a coil that has internal resistance. You'll see that resistor mounted next to the coil. I left it mounted in place for an appearance of originality, but in truth it is out of the circuit.

[Shelly Harris]

I currently suspect that my Ignitor I has failed. I suggest those following this thread elect to use the Ignitor II.

[Shelly Harris]

When re-installing my rebuilt carb I was unable to fire up the engine. I had to have the car flat beded into a mechanic. Just got off the phone with him and he reports the engines running fine. The ignitor I and the flame thrower 40K coil were to blame. So I hope all those considering the Pertronix read through this entire thread. Do not use an Ignitor I !!!!

[Barry Wolk]

As problematic as they seem to be I'm surprised that they still sell Pertronix I. Mine is in a landfill somewhere.

The Pertronix II on my Mark II is working just fine.

[Shelly Harris]

I picked up the car and its running great. The mechanic told me that with the Ignitor I in place he was able to get the car started but after 30 min the flame thrower coil failed. Then after again getting it started the Ignitor I completely failed. He confirmed there was nothing wrong with the way it had been installed. Fortunately I had the points, condenser and original coil in the trunk which he reinstalled and the car immediately fired up nice.

[5bird7]

All.
I don't have my Mark II in drivable condition at this time, but I do have a '57 T-bird that is driven 10K to 25K miles a year and have had a Pertronix in it for over 15 years and just this year had to replace the Pertronix 1 with a P 2. The P 1 started to act like a bad coil and would not work when hot, about 20 minutes on the road. After many new ignition parts (needed to do it anyway after 15 years) I finally tried a new Pertronix that I had for my '57 Ford Country Sedan. Problem solved!! I still carry the points conversion in the trunk, but will probably never use it in the car. I will use a Pertronix in the wagon as well as the Mark when I get it on the road.

George,
'56 Mark II
'57 Contry Sedan
'57 Thunderbird
3- '89 Chrysler TC's by Maserati
'89 Lebaron Convertible
'02 F-150 Lightning
'02 Thunderbird
'05 Thunderbird

[Barry Wolk]

I like your taste in cars, George. Too bad they didn't do the suicide-door Lincoln off the T-bird platform. That was a beautiful prototype.

Welcome to the site.

[Ian Cowie]

I have ordered the Petronix 45kv coil #45011.
I have ordered the Petronix Ignitor II #91282.
I have ordered cap/rotor from AC #8220.

I need plug wires: Petronix 7mm "Stock-Look" Universal set with Straight #708180 or 90 deg boots #708190?

I need plugs: ?? Barry mentioned dual platinum and Ian looks about with a strange look on his face as he has no idea what that means. Suggested manufacturer and part number?

[Barry Wolk]

Dual platinum have platinum contact surfaces which don't wear away. Many manufacturers make them. I believe they have an 18 mm base.

[Shelly Harris]

Autolite APP46, Champion 860

[Barry Wolk]

Remember to open the spark plug gap to .045. That will produce a longer and hotter spark aiding in better combustion at idle. My car used to stink so bad, but now there's barely a smell at all.

Has anyone had a problem with cross-firing the #1 and #2 cylinder, or any pair of fouled plugs?

[Shelly Harris]

If the spark is really hot such as produced by an MDS unit, or like the stock electronic ignition in my '76 Caddy you can go with a .055" gap for better ignition. I have the MDS unit in the Mark II with plugs gapped to .055" In fact, I have gapped the plugs in my '74 Mark IV which has a stock Dynaspark E/I to .055" with success. However keep in mind that just putting in an Ignitor II in your distributor doesn't increase the voltage of your spark. Adding the Pertonix hot coil might, but I don't know how much.

[Bob Barger]

I installed a petronics unit a couple of years ago but did not change the plugs. I also installed thier high energy coil and jumped a wire across the back of the ballast resistor to keep the stock look. My car was hard to start and would not run smoothly at freeway speed. I also could not find the timing mark with the timing light. The local distributor told me the outer ring on my balancer slipped. I ended up removing the unit and putting the points and condedser back in. My timing mark showed back up just as it was supposed to. From what I am reading maybe I had the series 1 rether than the series 2 or maybe there was something wrong with it as no-one else has mentioned any of the problems I had. I may try the series 2 and hope for better results. While the Petronics unit was installed I carried the points and condenser just in case. Bob

[Barry Wolk]

No real need with the Pertronix II. They solved the problems inherent to their first model. I've put 10,000 miles on mine.

[Continentalfan]

seems you lads have tried it all Pertronix I and II and MSD..can you say which one of the three you would now buy if you had it to do over..am going to go electronic with my MKII (#3077) and not sure which system to use..comments greatly appreciated.
David Hall B.C. Canada

[Barry Wolk]

There are 5 pages of comments. It's up to you to read them. The vast majority of us have used Pertronix successfully. Shelly bought the older model and it crapped out on him. He changed to MSD. The rest of us are fully satisfied with the Pertronix II.

[Mad Scientist]

The MSD is considered the way to go by most hot-roders. The system has been around for a number of years and has proven it self to be reliable. However you will need a special high energy coil to go with it, as it will burnout a stock coil. But it can be triggered by the stock distributor points which now last indefinitely because they no longer need to switch the high current required by the old coil.

MSD stands for “multi-spark discharge”. At low speeds, up to 3000 rpm(?), each plug is fired not just once but multiple times to ensure that the fuel is ignited.
These systems put out enough voltage to make even Frankenstein hair stand on end. As a result it is considered good practice to also replace the spark plug wires.

[Continentalfan]

Thanks Mad, that's what I was looking for. Thanks to you Barry as well. I have read the five pages a couple of times and that's why I asked the question. After the second reading I realized that I was not confident to make a choice. This Forum is truly very helpful and a lot of fun. Think I'll go with the Pertronix II. It sounds like the smart choice for our type of car. I have electronic ignition on a '66 Thunderbird but do not know the brand as it came white labelled from a T'Bird specialty store.

[Barry Wolk]

Here's how I break it down. The MDS unit does a terrific job of complete combustion, but the unit is visible. With enough work I suppose it could be concealed.

The Pertronix unit is totally contained within the distributor, so the only thing you see is a red wire running from the coil to the distributor. This can easily be disguised by slipping a black heat shrink tube over the red wire.

While the MDS performance can't be matched, the improvement is so dramatic with the Pertronix that most of us probably wouldn't notice the difference between the two units.

[Hal W May]

Sooo-I've been using the Pertronics II for about 6 months, now. Love it. No stinky tail-pipe, starts right up. But I don't have a hot shot coil, and I'm pretty sure my ballast resistor is still hooked up. Am I missing a bet-here? IE-would I be getting more bang for my buck with the "hotter coil"?

[Barry Wolk]

Yes, and better wires and platinum plugs. Likely the last tune up any of us will ever do.

[Hal W May]

Thanks Barry-got good wires, but plugs and coil it is. Hal

[Barry Wolk]

I was looking at the toys in your sig. Seems we have similar tastes.

You might want to check the Pertronix site as I think I recall that the hot coil doesn't do you any good without the hot wires.

[Hal W May]

Barry: You mean "supression core" wires-Right?

[Barry Wolk]

Here's a link to their wires.

http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/flame/wires/default.aspx

Apparently they now have a Pertronix III that does what the MDS unit does, except it is completely contained within the distributor.

http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor3/default.aspx

[Hal W May]

It's hard not to like a guy who appreciates old cars and old boats. Thanks for the link. The ones that are on it right now I got from Jack-so I'm gonna call him tomorrow to find out what he sold me, can't find the receipt, Thanks again for always being there.

[Continentalfan]

Ready to install the Pertronix Ignition I see that they recommend leaving the resistor out of the circuit but also note on the MKII wiring diagram that the resistor is in circuit between the coil and the ignition switch. Not making sense to me that we would mess with that circuit when the Ignitor II is wired to and from the distributor. The diagrams with the Ignitor II show that if the resistor is left in play then the Ignitor II is wired with the resistor between the coil and the Ignitor. Any comments from you folks on this will be appreciated. Looking forward to that new clean burble free idle I've been reading about.

[Barry Wolk]

I just bypassed the resistor under the fuse box.

[mrriviera]

who sells the correct plug wires to the petronixs system?..ordered a generic set of petronixs wires from summit racing..does not fit ..not long enough.thanks

[Barry Wolk]

Call Pertronix directly.

[Continentalfan]

Got the Pertronix parts at long last and installed today except wondering about the wire leading from the coil to the starter relay. Looking at the tech manual schematic I suspect that they used that wire to effectively eliminate the ignition resistor during starting to max the voltage at the coil for starting..?? Do you know if that is correct? Did you connect that wire when you installed the Pertronix ??

[Barry Wolk]

Yes, that is correct. With no points to burn out, full voltage can be applied to the coil.

[Continentalfan]

Thanks Barry I have jumpered the ignition resistor to get it out of the circuit and still keep authentic appearance but there is another wire that ran from the coil (bat side) to the starter relay that I am not sure about whether it needs to stay in play. That wire does not show in the Pertronix drawings but they expect their system to be used on multi models so I do not take their drawings to be gospel for the MKII..do you recal if you left on the wire going from the coil to the starter relay?

[Barry Wolk]

If I understand correctly, that wire applied full voltage to the coil for starting, but that circuit dropped out as soon as you turned the key off. I believe you can remove it, but don't hold me to it.

I used a 1/4" tab doubler that allowed me to simply move the rear resistor wire to the front terminal without modifying the wiring.

[Continentalfan]

Thanks again, Barry. I went ahead with it as planned and left the wire in place from the coil to the starter relay as it was stock..could not see any harm in it and the car started and ran well after the installation (whew!!) so will leave as is for now.

[mrriviera]

since there seems to be a few in the forum who have made this change..would you be kind enough to tell me where you bought your wires from and possibly the part number,save some time since petronixs doesn't seem tolike to answer the phone..thanks,Jeff:)

[Barry Wolk]

Post #9 of this thread shows the part numbers.

[Roger Zimmermann]

For about a week, I drove my '56 Biarritz as it's no good not to drive cars. After about 10 minutes, it began to run awfully: running on 4 cylinder right after idle. I had to push the gas pedal with an egg in between to get some motion.
I was very disappointed as I had already driving problems with that car due to a warped intake manifold. It can not be that 2 years the car is running well and suddently giving such trouble.
Thinking that it could be the carbs, I wrote to Daytona Carb Unlimited and I got a very interesting answer. Among many reasons, I was asked if I had a Pertronix ignition system as they are known to crate similar trouble just above idle. Of course, I have a Pertronix system in that car; probably the Pertronix I.
Last Saturday, I install the points and condenser and did today a test drive: the car never ran so well!
Even if the Pertronix II is better, I stay with the regular system. I never had trouble with the regular ignition on my 2 other Cads.