Lenses

[Chuck Lutz]

Does anyone have a repro source for the lenes? Specifically, the rears. Mine are all spider webbed.
This guy's lenses look pretty good.

[Nick DeSpirito]

Chuck,

I got mine from MarkII.com back when I did the car over. Check his on line catalog for the pricing. I think they're listed for $145.00 each.

[Chuck Lutz]

OUCH, thanks Nick.
Someone told me about a reproduction out of Australia. I'm going to check on that further.

[Barry Wolk]

Let us know. Mine are starting to spider crack.

[Doc]

Nick is correct. Mark II Enterprises (Jack Rosen) has both the brake/tail light assembly and the back up light lenses available--they're reproductions--at $145 each. While they're obviously not inexpensive, I must admit that they are of a very high quality and a perfect replacement, with all the correct script and logos--I just did one side (it's typically the one on the driver's side over the gas filler that goes bad first) and it's a perfect match to the original on the other side. Make sure to buy the rubber gasket that goes with it as well unless yours is still good after your remove the current one.

[Chuck Lutz]

Ok, I think I found the guy in Austrailia. I've sent him an email to see if he's interested in lenses for the MARK II. He's big into Chrysler and DeSotos so we'll see what he comes back with. Might be the doing it for other parts suppliers here in the US.
Can I get a head count of even fleeting interest in case he askes?

[Keith W Colonna]

I will verify that the MKII Enterprise lens from Jack Rosen are very nice....that was my experience with the lens I got for my 55 Capri.
Now I have a question.....replacing the drivers side back up lens on the MKII: I have figured out that the two screws on the bottom of the lens frame cannot be accessed without removing either the bumper or the hinge mechanism on the gas fill tail light. Buddy Holiday says the same in his book.
But what is the step by step procedure here? Do I need to take out the tank fill spout to reach those bottom bolts on the hinge bracket? The top bolt is accessibly from inside the trunk. Or do I need to take out the pins on the hinges themselves?

[Chuck Lutz]

I got a note back this evening from George in Australia. He hasn't done any Mark II lens but he's willing to try. Besides the Chrysler and DeSotos he's been dabbling in a couple Facial Vega lenses but no Mark II's yet. His stuff for the Chrysler is very high quality as I've seen very high resolution photos. He's willing to try to price it but would need a pretty good sample from which to work. As I understand it he would, first repair the sample and then get patterns from that. He states that he's not cheap and "nothing happens very fast around here as I'm a work force of one".
I'm not into blazing trails here since there are other sources available.
Nothing ventured, nothing gained. Right?

[Don Henschel]

Does anyone have a repro source for the lenes? Specifically, the rears. Mine are all spider webbed.
This guy's lenses look pretty good.

I am sure I stumbled upon a place in the US that reproduced lenses and rubber for the MarkII and other makes as well?? I am looking through my browser bookmarks trying to find it!
Try this guy. He might have. He has been good to me!
John McClure [mailto:lincolnfarm@atlanticbb.net]

[Chuck Lutz]

Thanks, I'll give that a shot.

[vancec]

I will verify that the MKII Enterprise lens from Jack Rosen are very nice....that was my experience with the lens I got for my 55 Capri.
Now I have a question.....replacing the drivers side back up lens on the MKII: I have figured out that the two screws on the bottom of the lens frame cannot be accessed without removing either the bumper or the hinge mechanism on the gas fill tail light. Buddy Holiday says the same in his book.
But what is the step by step procedure here? Do I need to take out the tank fill spout to reach those bottom bolts on the hinge bracket? The top bolt is accessibly from inside the trunk. Or do I need to take out the pins on the hinges themselves?

I took mine off to replace them before bodywork. I struggled with the driver's side like you are until I realized the assembly comes off the bracket. It's a breeze. Take a look, you'll see that you are attempting to take off much more than you need. It's just the lenses and housing you need to remove. Sorry I can't be more specific but I am leaving right now. I am sure others will walk you through it.

Jack's are nice but a cheaper source for these kinds of things would make a huge difference in restoring our cars.

[Keith W Colonna]

Hello Vance,
Buddy Holiday warned in his book about the fact that the driver's side back up lens could not be replaced without removing the two bottom screws on the lens housing....and that only possible when the hinged bracket is removed.
The previous owner of my car evidently had that same problem as he replaced the passenger side, but the driver's side remains crazed.
Please go into more detail when you get the chance.
Thanks......Keith

[vancec]

Sorry Keith, I have been out of town but I will try to take a look at my car next week to give you more detail.

Vance

[Mad Scientist]

There are some clevis pins that are used as hinge pins and are held in place with cotter pins. If you can remove them you should be able to get it off.

Otherwise you need to remove the bumper to gain access to the two lower bolts. However to remove a couple of the bumper bolts you will probably have to remove the mufflers.:eek:

[Chuck Lutz]

What were these guys thinking in 1955??? Masochistic!!!
So what's the answer? Take to cotter pins out and remove the hinged tail light assembly?

[depmike38]

What were these guys thinking in 1955??? Masochistic!!!
So what's the answer? Take to cotter pins out and remove the hinged tail light assembly?

Too bad there's no one around from the line you could ask. I'd put my money on something about the way it's attached making assembly easier. Never seems to be much thought given to working on it later:(

[vancec]

Too bad there's no one around from the line you could ask. I'd put my money on something about the way it's attached making assembly easier. Never seems to be much thought given to working on it later:(

I KNOW Barry has the info on this; I am going to PM him and get him to answer.

[vancec]

Barry has never done it to his car. I am going to try to check my car tomorrow to reconstruct how I did it. I remember that “DUH!” moment when I realized I was disassembling way more that I needed to do.

[Barry Wolk]

Here are some drawings that may help us.

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/barry2952/1%20Mark%20II%20docs/Scan-2.jpg

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/barry2952/1%20Mark%20II%20docs/Taillightmechanism.jpg

[Barry Wolk]

After staring at the drawing for awhile I've come to the conclusion that the tail lens assy. can be removed by removing three pins. 2 #4046982 would have to be removed along with #4046972. Just hope the pins don't drop out the bottom. Might want to consider putting them back in from the top.

I believe the spring will have to be removed, too.

[Barry Wolk]

I went through the whole Mark II Encyclopedia and there's no mention of lens removal.

However, I did find a helpful tip. The wiring harness for the tail lights is the same for both sides. You can swap harnesses and put an unstressed harness in place of the one that's been flexing back and forth for nearly 55 years.

Thank you Buddy Holiday.

[vancec]

Well, all I have here is the tail light assembly that I brought home. The bezel that holds the lenses and bulbs. I have to admit I am confused by this drawing. On mine, the two tabs where it appears a pin 4046973 would go, has no holes in it.

I am going to have to take this assembly to where my car is and reinstall it to figure it out. More to follow.

[Barry Wolk]

Pictures??????????????????

[vancec]

Took a photo, downloaded it to my Mac, now trying to login to Cardomain to link it. Jeez, what a pain the butt something simple is to do. If I take a picture on my Iphone I can immediately post it on my Facebook.

[vancec]

http://s860.photobucket.com/albums/ab170/vancec_photos/?action=view&current=DSC01503.jpg

[Mad Scientist]

Yes that is a taillight assembly. If you wish to disassemble it you need to remove the four screws along the edge and the one on top near the point. Also there are two (4?) screws on the bottom. Be very careful removing these, use penetrating oil, they might be corroded in place, I broke a couple :mad: and had to drill and retap them. The chrome part can then be carefully pried off socket mount part. The plastic should then slide out.

[Barry Wolk]

I have found that seized screws that pass through dissimilar metals often corrode in place. I find that tapping them side to side with a small punch will often break the ring of corrosion, allowing you to free the fastener.

[Barry Wolk]

That's the passenger side light. The driver's side does not have the studs. It looks like the housings are interchangeable, side to side.

http://i860.photobucket.com/albums/ab170/vancec_photos/DSC01503.jpg

My lens only has one screw in the bottom. It looks OEM. I'll try removing it.

[vancec]

I didn't get a chance to look at my car today. Tomorrow I hope to. I'll take photos of the entire assembly and post them.

Hey, my car went to paint today!!! Could it be?....

[SLK]

Hey, my car went to paint today!!! Could it be?....

Congratulations Vance. I can't wait to see updated pictures.

Was Doyle any help?

[vancec]

Was Doyle any help?

It looks like my guy is coming through. I've got my fingers crossed.

[SLK]

You need to post some pictures here. I saw the progress shots from facebook, but I'm sure the rest of the group would like to see them.

btw, Happy anniversary.

[vancec]

You need to post some pictures here. I saw the progress shots from facebook, but I'm sure the rest of the group would like to see them.

btw, Happy anniversary.

Thanks Ben. They will have the body back together this week. I'll post a bunch of photos showing the car from start to present time.

[vancec]

OK, this is easy. Remove every screw from the bezel, 13448 on Barry's diagram. The hinged bracket does not need to be removed.

[Chuck Lutz]

I beg to differ. Every screw is easy except the one you can't get to. The one that requires you to remove the hinge mechanism :confused:

[vancec]

I beg to differ. Every screw is easy except the one you can't get to. The one that requires you to remove the hinge mechanism :confused:

I was able to do it so it must be easy! :D

I may have had to use a really short screwdriver. I did disconnect the spring but I don't think that is necessary. I remember trying, at first, to remove pins and got nowhere. My mechanic showed me the screws holding it together and two minutes later I had it off.

I have the housing here. Three screws at the top, two center and one on each side at the bottom. Are the bottom ones giving you the trouble? If so, maybe try using vice grips on the screw heads?

[Chuck Lutz]

If so, maybe try using vice grips on the screw heads?

LOL.. I thought of the vice grips on the screw heads and that might have worked but I had to take it to the last step of trying to get the sucker started and re-installed.

I got home tonight to find my Mark II Ent. package on the front door step with my new lenses. I've been expecting them and have run this drill in my mind about getting the driver's side apart and back together. Vance, I tip my hat to you if you pulled this off without the dreaded hinge undo.

All and all it went well. Slow and methodical it only took about an hour start to finish for the drivers side (that included the photos that I made to post here). It got dark so I'll tackle the easy one (?) tomorrow.

I'll try to recap:
1. there's a straight flat linkage that seems not important but I took the clevis pin out of the lens side first. Again, the pin comes out the bottom and you'll need to pry the lens housing up about 3/32" to get the pin in the clevis past the flat linkage and get it to swing free.
2. Next is that pesky spring. This I found easier to remove from the body housing than the lens side. Once that is off you shouldn't have any pinched fingers from the housing snapping back (No photos of my poor finger).
3. The upper and lower hinge pivots near the body. Removing the tiny cotter pins was pretty easy and I was careful to not break them and straighten them before re-assembly.
4. Once this is done there's perfect access to the 3 top screws, 2 middle screws and flopping the whole assembly over ... the 2 bottom screws.
5. The chrome assembly came off with the clear lens and the red lens was still in place at the backing plate. It came off easily.
6. The entire assembly was cleaned, the new gasket was installed around the perimeter of the chrome sealing it to the body and new lenses installed. I must say they fit very close to the originals. I was amazed at the fit being replacements.
The processes were reversed and everything went back nicely.

[Chuck Lutz]

Well, I see none of the pictures posted.... I'll try again.

[Nick DeSpirito]

Chuck,

Great job! :D Do you remember what side of the flat reflector lens faces the red lens? My driver's side must be in backwards. I came home one night and the Mark II was outside. The passenger side lit up, (reflected the light from the headlights of the car I was driving) but the driver's side did not. At first I thought I was missing the reflector, but looking close, I can see it in the housing. All the years I've owned this car, I never knew it. :o

Guess I'll be performing the task of what you just went through just to turn that sucker around. :( But at least I now I have your pictures to guide me. :)

Thanks for the blow by blow description!

[Chuck Lutz]

Do you remember what side of the flat reflector lens faces the red lens?

As a matter of fact I didn't remember but in an attempt not to bore everyone I hadn't posted ALL the pictures. I did find one that answers the questions. Smooth side out.

[Nick DeSpirito]

Thanks Chuck! The picture answers my question. :)

[Keith W Colonna]

Gentlemen....thanks so much for the detailed information. It gave me direction and the courage to to tackle the lens replacemnt today.
I removed the clevis pins by soaking with PB blaster and gripping the heads with fine point vice grips. I jiggled and slowly turned them to break the corrosion seal. After removing the cotter pins I then pulled and tapped the clevis pins out. The one on the bottom could not be taken out since it was too long to clear the assembly while in place. But it dropped down enough to remove the needed piece.
I braced the assembly to keep it rigid while I did this. I also wrapped the whole area with heavy duct tape to prevent scratching.
After I put the new lenses in the frame I put the screws in with anti-seize compound. And I lubricated the clevis pins with white lithium grease after polishing corrosion from all the mating surfaces with 400 grit sandpaper.
None of this was easy I might add....but it works great and was only possible with help from "The MKII Forum"!

[Shelly Harris]

keith:

I love to read posts like that....