View Full Version : Detailing under my Caddy's hood:
Shelly Harris
05-14-2011, 11:22 AM
I'm cleaning up under the hood of my '76 Caddy Eldorado convertible. When I started it was ugly. I'm stuck on what to do with the valve covers. They are a mess. The easiest way to go would be with after market chrome ones. I've kept the air cleaner stock with a repaintig. Cleaning and repainting the valve covers would be a job. Probably would have to take them to a shop and have them put in a cleaning tank then I'd have the further work of the painting. So my two choices are keeping the originals and working on them or just buying the chrome ones and probably getting a chrome air cleaner to boot. What do you think would look best?
Barry Wolk
05-14-2011, 11:58 AM
Keep it stock. Sand-blast the valve covers and rattle-can them.
Shelly Harris
05-14-2011, 02:57 PM
Keep it stock. Sand-blast the valve covers and rattle-can them.
Yes, I'm tending in that direction. Unfortunately the air cleaner top with the Fuel Injected script etc was badly rusted and after sanding it all clean of course I lost all that script. I shot it a straight bright red. The valve covers are a dark royal blue so I guess I'll re shot the air cleaner the same or maybe gloss black.. Do you have any preference as to a brand name "rattle can" that can take the heat?
Barry Wolk
05-14-2011, 03:57 PM
I would think that any of the high temp engine paints would do.
Dave Harris
05-15-2011, 07:32 AM
If not reproduced, I would look look in Hemmings, ebay, and find quality used pieces and that air cleaner lid. Someone may have them.
rfm45
05-15-2011, 09:12 AM
Shelly,
If you are still considering maintaining authenticity, the air cleaner should be semi-gloss black. The Fuel Injection decal may be available from Jim Osborne at: dosborn@osborn-reproductio.com Eastwood makes the best engine compartment semi gloss black. I’ve also used Rustoleum with excellent results, but you will have to use their primer as a base coat. Your engine and valve covers should be “Cadillac Blue” which is available from Eastwood. Just specify the year because there was a change to a lighter blue somewhere in the '76 time frame.
HTH,
Ralph
Mad Scientist
05-15-2011, 12:21 PM
Rather then paint, how about powder coat them.
Its thicker film will tend to fill in small rust pits.
Barry Wolk
05-15-2011, 12:24 PM
While that's true, powder coating is basically melting plastic dust so that it bonds to the surface and itself. However, not all powder-coating can withstand the temperature of being next to the exhaust manifold.
You simply have to tell the powder-coater what you want or DIY in the wife's oven.:eek:
Mad Scientist
05-15-2011, 07:29 PM
Typically powder coating is cured at 400 degrees for 20 minutes. Plus there is some high temperature stuff that can withstand up to 1000 degrees.
In any case if the cylinder heads get up to 400 degree you have more pressing problems then worrying if the powder coat will hold up.:D
And yes do not use friend wife's oven if you ever want her to talk to you again.:)
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