new member

[nico]

Well here goes. I believe this is the right place to introduce myself. My name is Nico and we live in Mission B.C. Canada. I have been a Volvo technician since 1987. Even though I am not a fan of North American automobiles there are some exceptions. I (we) currently own the following "collectors" 1960 RR SCII Radford Countryman, 1964 Fiat 1500 Cabriolet, 1967 RR SS1, 1970 Mercedes 280 SE Coupe, 1972 Citroen SM, 1988 Bentley Turbo R. And now ofcourse the reason I joined your group, we purchased a Mark II (C5601580). We purchased it at the Bonhams auction in Tacoma where it resided in the Lemay museum for many years. Ofcourse this probably means it is going to need some (or a lot) of recommisioning. I'm sure I'll have lots of questions but after reading some of the threads it seems there are lots of experts in the group who don't mind sharing their knowledge and or opinions.

Regards, Nico

[Nick DeSpirito]

Nico,

Welcome to the forum. Everyone here is willing to help a fellow Mark II owner. Do you have any pictures of your Mark II? If you have any questions, please ask. And congrats on the purchase of your Mark II.

Nico, a question about a Volvo. A friend of mine has a 2004 XC90 T/C with 105,000 miles. The dealership has told him that the timing belt should be changed now. Is this crucial at this mileage?

[nico]

The belt interval is 168KM / 10 years or about 104 Miles. We have found in our area (West Coast) this usually is ok. IF you live in a cold climate the belts seem to age prematurly due to the thickness of the belt and cold starts in the winter and have been known to expire. In the Canadian Prairies some Dealers change the belt at the old interval of 112KM / 7 years or about 70 Miles to play it save. When you change the belt you have to change the mechanical tensioner and it would be a good idea to change the waterpump at the same time. (unless changed previous). If his car is a 6 Cyl now is the time to change the T-stat as well. (it is behind the timing cover).

Nico

[Nick DeSpirito]

Thanks Nico. I will let him know.

[Barry Wolk]

Welcome, Nico!

[Mad Scientist]

Welcome to the exciting world of MKII restoration. It looks like you have the background to be up to the challenge.:)

[linmk2]

Welcome. Nice to have you here.

[SLK]

Welcome Nico.

Were you looking for the Mark II when you went to the auction?

Ben

[nico]

Yes and no, I missed out on getting a MK II about 10 years ago and regretted it ever since. When I found out about this auction and went through the lots I ended up with a list of 11 cars of interest with the MK II being one of the last to go on the block. I have to say though I am quite leary about buying at an auction and consequently it was the only car I bought. We'll see how this turns out. Hopefully it will get here Friday night. I have beer standing by in case I have to cry in it.

[SLK]

From the picture on the auction website, it looks like it's in nice shape and complete. With your background, it should be ready to roll in no time.

[Jim Rohn]

looks like a fine buy/car

http://images2.bonhams.com/erez4/erez?src=Images/live/2009-07/30/7872495-50-2.jpg.tif&tmp=Large&width=500&quality=70&format=jpeg&top=0&left=0&bottom=1&right=1

[nico]

Well it showed up today, the only things that appear to be missing are the radio (ouch) and on the bottom of the right front fender the little MKII badge. It will need to be painted and the carpets redone, brake hydraulics, and the exhaust pipes from the rear mufflers to the bumper. Ofcourse that was just a quick look. It's on my hoist and all the floor boards and frame rails are good.
Now I noticed some of you know how to decipher the body plate?

C5601580
08-1D3G-1021-3
11-60A

The car doesn't have A/C and only 1 side mirror.

Nico

[Nick DeSpirito]

Nico,

You're also missing the lower front bumper guards. I can see it has no A/C because there are no fresh air intakes in the quarter panels.They didn't have side view mirrors on the passenger side.

I can tell you that the car came off the line on October 21, 1955 and was the third unit produced that day. Your paint (8) is Briar Brown Metallic. You interior is all leather. Light beige biscuits with medium beige bolsters and Light beige welting.

[Chuck Lutz]

Nico, It's wonderful. Congrats. I'm not sure there was a RH mirror and if there was... I'm getting one.
I'm sure you know this but... It's not about the destination but the journey.
Have fun.

[nico]

I thought the front bumper guards looked a bit odd. I went and had a closer look but I can't see any old marks from the missing parts. There is 1 hole on each side presumeably to attach the upper ones. Is there a picture anywhere showing the complete bumper?

[Nick DeSpirito]

Nico,

The upper ones are on your car. It's the lowers that you are missing.

Check out my lower bumper. It's the two long ones on each side of the license plate.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2480/3707869125_2e4087aed2_m.jpg

[Chuck Lutz]

Here's a sketch Nico.

[nico]

Well it certainly looks better with the bottom ones on, it does look like they attach through the bumper. I don't have any holes in that area. maybe someone replaced the bottom part of the bumper at some time?

[Nick DeSpirito]

Nico,

This car is missing both top and bottom guards. Looks like they put in bolts tohide the holes.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q258/fast4401/56continental/56mark2001.jpg

[Mad Scientist]

The bumper guards were cast from pot metal, a heavy duty castings but still pot metal. I know the history of mine, my father had them rechromed once because they were totally corroded and pitted. When I started work on the car they were again totally corroded and pitted.

I suspect that there might be an electrolysis action going on between them and the bumper.

They may have removed and discard by someone who thought they were too far gone to repair.

[nico]

That makes sense, my car also has the two bumper bolts, I just thought they were used to hold on the bumper not to cover up the holes.

[Nick DeSpirito]

The bumper guards were cast from pot metal, a heavy duty castings but still pot metal. I know the history of mine, my father had them rechromed once because they were totally corroded and pitted. When I started work on the car they were again totally corroded and pitted.

I suspect that there might be an electrolysis action going on between them and the bumper.

They may have removed and discard by someone who thought they were too far gone to repair.

Mad, I once read that they were cast aluminum and in that same article read about the electrolysis thing that caused them to corrode. I think it was in Buddy Holiday's book.

[Mad Scientist]

You could be right that they are cast aluminum that would make sense.
Mine looked like a piece of course sandpaper when I took them off and the bolts were total froze in their holes. I had a hell of a time unscrewing them and was quite concerned that I might actually crack the casting.

Retaped the holes to get some clean metal for the bolts. Wire brushed, sanded and buffed them back into shape. Then powder coated them to protect and electrically insulate them from the bumper. Also made some thin rubber gaskets to go under them.

[Nick DeSpirito]

What about insulating the bolt that screws into the guard? Maybe plumber's tape around the threads?

[Barry Wolk]

Use a stainless bolt with Nev-R-Seize. We do that all the time with aluminum light fixtures and poles.