Mark II Transmissions

[Chuck Lutz]

I find myself comfortable around the mechanics of the engine and suspension but when it gets to the transmission I'm lost.
1. I'm planning on draining and changing the fluids. While I'm at it are there any filters, adjustments or inspections that should be done at the same time?
2. I have no idea what the pin is called but I'm told that it exsists but when my car is in "Park" in the driveway (slight slope) without the emergency brake the car slips back and you can hear the "ticking" of what isn't keeping it in park. Is something broken or is this a characteristic of the car? Can the pin be replaced during the service or is this a "take-out" situation?

[Barry Wolk]

I'm not sure on the parking pin, but I don't think that that's accessible through the pan.

In the pan is a simple screen that needs to be removed and cleaned.

Has your trans been rebuilt? If not, you should go back with a modern equivalent of type "A". Rebuilt trans will have organic material for the clutch packs and require a different fluid.

[Phil Gevertz]

I have been using Type F fluid in the power steering unit and transmission. If that is incorrect, please advise! Thanks.

[Barry Wolk]

I believe it's type A, but I'll research further.

[Shelly Harris]

I have been told, and package labelling verifies that our transmissions are ok with "Dexron III/Mercon ATF" which is not recommended where Ford-F is required.

[Nick DeSpirito]

That's what the parts store said to use since type A is no longer to be found.

[Barry Wolk]

From the 1956 Technical Data Book for the Continental Mark II Dated 1955

Use Ford ATF Type "A", 8L-19582.

Note: The same fluid is specified for the power steering system.

[Nick DeSpirito]

From the 1956 Technical Data Book for the Continental Mark II Dated 1955

Use Ford ATF Type "A", 8L-19582.

Note: The same fluid is specified for the power steering system.

Sorry Barry, I meant to say Type A. I use F in my '76 Mark IV.

[depmike38]

I have looked up virtually everything I can find on the transmission fluid and it seems the consensus is dexron-III. I did find an FA but that's anti-foaming F.

[Don Henschel]

Dexron replaced type A. Type F was used in the Ford transmissions around the middle late sixties. I remember my FMX tranny in my LTD requiring this. Dexron has been improved over the years to Dexron III. When I reinstalled my transmission in my Mark after rebuilding, it did the same thing "ticking". The Park pawl was slipping due to the gear selector linkage slightly out of adjustment. The pawl locks into a toothed wheel on the output shaft to hold the car in park. You SHOULD NOT USE ONLY your park to hold your car on a steep hill because it can be very difficult to take your car out of park with all the weight on this pawl. You can damage this pawl and toothed wheel by trying to force it out of park! I push my brake pedal down hard, apply the park brake, release the brake pedal to make sure the park brake is holding and then place selector in park. If your car still rolls in park after you check your linkage adjustment, you may have a damaged or worn park pawl/toothed wheel. I think :confused::confused:you might be able to get to this by removing the rear housing and or tail housing of the tranmission (if you have room which I doubt!). Its been since the early 90's since I worked on this model.
Here is some good reading on this and other models for those who want to see what makes it "tick"
http://www.charlietranny.com/Fordomatic.htm
This transmission is actualy quite simple to work on compared to the newer models.

[Don Henschel]

Sorry Chuck! I forgot to mention after that long winded post. Adjustments you ask?
Get a 1/4" peice of steel for adjusting your front band (1/4" keystock will work fine). With the transmissin oil pan removed, back off the adjusting screw lock nut and screw far enough so you can stick this peice of steel in between the servo piston rod and the screw. Tighten the adjuster screw aprox. 10 inch/lbs of torque against the spacer and then back off screw one full turn and tighten the lock nut 20-25 ft/lbs.This insures you have a 1/4 inch of servo travel. The rear band is alot simpler. Just loosen the lock nut and turn in the adjusting screw to 10 foot/lbs. Then back the screw off 1 1/2 turns. Then tighten the lock nut 35-40 ft./lbs.
Turn your torque converter and there should be drain plugs to drain the oil out of the converter. You will probably notice small amounts of metal particles in the pan and this is usually normal due to normal wear of the planetary gearsets and of course a bit of metal from your park pawl (more or less depending on how well your transmission oil was serviced in the past). You shouldnt see flakes of clutch or band material swiming around in there as this could indicate they are failing.
Get a filter/gasket kit as well along with enough Dexron to refill. (dont forget to reinstall your converter plug:D)
Your transmission will take about four quarts of oil before you start the engine. It will drop VERY fast after you start the engine as the converter fills up. Quikly add 3-4 more quarts. After that slowly add oil as required being careful not to overfill. My OEM Continental manual has 10 quarts listed in the specification section.

[Chuck Lutz]

Great info. Thanks Don.
You wouldn't have a picture of the parking pawl. I'm not sure where to find it. I don't know if I need a linkage adjustment or if the pawl / gear is damaged.

[Barry Wolk]

You SHOULD NOT USE ONLY your park to hold your car on a steep hill

We have little problem with that in the Land of Flat.;)

[Shelly Harris]

Get a 1/4" peice of steel for adjusting your front band (1/4" keystock will work fine). With the transmissin oil pan removed....etc.

Don: You make it sound so easy I'm tempted to do it myself. Is this done from underneath the car? I heard previously that adjusting the bands was done by bringing up the carpet and working through access holes in the floor. Please expand your information on the procedure.

[Don Henschel]

We have little problem with that in the Land of Flat.;)

If you have a steep driveway??(doesnt take much) This park pawl and gear are more delicate than you think! (and what does your car weigh?) Look at how small the park pawl is:cool:. Its quite small compared to the newer transmissions.
Chuck, this is just the pawl shown here (upper right corner). The newer transmissions have a square block on the end of the pawl and instead of a park gear, they use a ring with large notches in it. The pawl is spring loaded so it will slide into place as the ring turns on the new style. I'm sure this is the park gear on the outside of the drum on the second picture from the tech manual. As for your question of is it a take out situation, I would say so.

[Don Henschel]

Don: You make it sound so easy I'm tempted to do it myself. Is this done from underneath the car? I heard previously that adjusting the bands was done by bringing up the carpet and working through access holes in the floor. Please expand your information on the procedure.

Sad to say this is the case! Here is a picture from C5671002 on E-Pay right now (It's slowly creeping up. Nick it's up to $9128.00)
They dont give you much room to work on this beast:( You are right about the reverse band adjustment. The front band adjustment is made after you remove the transmission pan. I provided a picture of the adjustment in the car, as well as an additional picture-transmission on a bench which is clearer just to show it a bit better.
BTW this manual is for both Ford-o-Matic and Cruise-o-matics. It covers both and they are very similar to this model. Your servo linkage may look slightly different but the settings are the same.

[Don Henschel]

I have been using Type F fluid in the power steering unit and transmission. If that is incorrect, please advise! Thanks.

I asked a few Ford mechanics along time ago about this. They mentioned the Type F had different additives for some models (newer) with fewer clutch disks. The additive makes the clutches grab harder. The way they made it sound was put it in a Type A or Dexron transmission and you might have a harsher shifting transmission. Put Dexron or Type A in a Type F trans and it will be harder on the clutches as they will slip more (so I'm told). From what I found while looking for decent pictures & info to upload, Type F transmissions didnt come out until 1967. Can any of you slab side and later Lincoln owners varify this?

[depmike38]

:DIs the Turbo-Drive in a 58 the same as the transmission in the Mark II? I've located a manual and the guy says they're the same but I wanted a more "learned" opinion.

[Barry Wolk]

The Mark II was fitted with two different transmissions. The '56 had an aluminum torque converter and the '57 steel. I think the housings changed, too. The '57 unit may be the same at the '58 Lincoln.

[depmike38]

Oh well, there's a nice original 58 manual on ebay right now that goes off in 17 hours, only has one bid and it's only at about $7 if anyone wants to try it.

[Chuck Lutz]

I'll probably wait until I find the right 58 Continental convertible to start buying book on them.

I often look at those 58's and wonder, at what point did FoMoCo decided there wouldn't be a 58 Mark II (supposed to be a 4 yr run cycle) and what hoops they had to jump through at Lincoln to get something to market without completely dumping the Continental name again. When you think of the years that it takes to develope a new model they must have been scrambling.

It has always been my guess that the 58 Continental was a Premier in fancy clothes and extra appointments. As I don't really know the Premier that well, so am I close?

[Barry Wolk]

The Mark II was cancelled in August or September '56, I believe. I saw the letter to WCF formally canceling the program but The Benson Ford wouldn't let me copy it.

[Don Henschel]

:DIs the Turbo-Drive in a 58 the same as the transmission in the Mark II? I've located a manual and the guy says they're the same but I wanted a more "learned" opinion.
Good question. I'm looking in a 1958 Motor's Auto Repair manual from 1958 and they show a picture of the control valves. 1951-54 are in one picture and the other picture shows one for 1955-58. I would asume they are the same (1955-1958). They mention nothing about the dual range or cruisomatic.I think the so called Cruisomatic or dual range came out in 1959 (PRND2D1L). Correct me if I'm wrong but I think the 59 Fords had that as an option, as well as the 2 speed. My father used to have a 59 Ford with a 6 cyl. 2 Speed auto (1st to 3rd, not 2nd to 3rd with 1st if you floor it like the Mark II) I gave him a 332 with a 3 speed cruisomatic, and I am sure we were able to find the PRND2D1L indicator for it from another 59(cant remember for sure 20 years ago). I heard rumors that you can convert the Turbo-Drive to a full time 3 speed by adding an additional clutch(sprag clutch and additional required parts) as well as a newer valve body, but havent found this out for sure.

[Sean Rollins]

Some things sound so easy.... I am getting set to adjust the bands in my tranny, and all goes smoothly until I go to "roll the carpet out of the way" on the transmission hump. Do any of you who have changed out your carpets remember what holds this section of carpet down? I didn't see any fasteners, but I thought before I just pull like hell and spend twenty years regretting that move, I would ask. The floor pan sections come up carefully enough to allow access to the perimiter of the tunnel section, but that's it.:confused:

[Barry Wolk]

There's a lot of heat that goes through that tunnel. The carpet has probably glued itself to the floor. There are no fasteners that go through the carpet, that I know of. You might want to check underneath to see if any screws poke through the floor.

[Mad Scientist]

Check for screws along the bottom edge, I don't recall if any were there, but I know they used screws to hold the other pieces of carpet in place.

Beyond that as Barry said it is probably just heat from the transmission gluing it down.

[Sean Rollins]

Thanks fellas. I will look from underneath, but the selfgluing sounds pretty probable to me too. If I discover anything important, I'll post it.

[Pat Marshall]

The front hump carpet is screwed down, not through the carpet but through the sail cloth edging. The specs were to use as few screws as possible, this was usually done with four.