Steering Gear Box

[Chuck Lutz]

I've got to address the amounts of PS fluid pouring out of the end of the gear box down at the arm. I have no issue with replacing the entire gear box but not sure if the entire steering column has to come out or if it can be simply disconnected from the column shaft. Any one have words of wisdom about where I begin?

[depmike38]

I've got to address the amounts of PS fluid pouring out of the end of the gear box down at the arm. I have no issue with replacing the entire gear box but not sure if the entire steering column has to come out or if it can be simply disconnected from the column shaft. Any one have words of wisdom about where I begin?
Chuck, I've been looking at the directions and exploded view I've got and it looks like you have to remove the steering column completely to get the box out as the shaft is one piece from the worm gear all the way to where the steering wheel bolts on. I'd never noticed but I guess the rag joints were phased in about 60-61. The part of the directions that concern me is where you're told to remove the left side exhaust manifold and two of the plugs

[Barry Wolk]

That doesn't sound as bad as removing the transmission.

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/barry2952/1%20Mark%20II%20docs/Picture0006.jpg

[Mad Scientist]

Been there, done that. Of course I had the engine out at the time, so I don't know about the exhaust getting in the way.

But aside from that, it amounted to removing the pitman arm from the bottom then the bolts holding the top cover on. The cover then just lifts off and the shaft can be lifted out. (Carefully note position of gear. Do not move steering wheel.)

Next you need a long thin rod to reach in an beat out the offending oil seal at the bottom. However as I recall there is a snap ring and some washers that need to be removed first.

The replacement seal I got from McMaster-Carr.

[Chuck Lutz]

That doesn't sound as bad as removing the transmission.

Barry, I meant to ask you about that. I think I remember you saying something about taking the front end apart in order to get the engine and trans out. I was reading about engine removal in the technical manual last night and I don't remember it saying anything about the front coming off. They talk about pulling only the engine and then the engine and trans. When I do tackle it can I borrow your silky blue comforter??

But as far at my steering box goes it's a lot bigger deal than I would have expected. Just goes to show how critical the assembly sequence must have been for those cars.

[Barry Wolk]

I love McMaster-Carr.

What you're describing is replacement of the seal on the sector shaft. It sounds like his output shaft is leaking.

I can scan the service manual for this task if anyone wants.

I took some serious heat on the Lincoln Forum for suggesting that I thought it was no big deal to adjust the sector shaft. It's simply a beveled gear that needs to mesh properly to take out steering slop. My adjustment screw leaked fluid so I had to take it loose to put in a crush washer. In removing the nut I changed the setting, so it had to be adjusted, anyway. I jacked up the front end and experimented with various settings while turning the steering wheel. There was a noticeable "neutral point" that narrowed the range of adjustment.

I was severely chastised for messing with the adjustment at all. Over-reaction?

[Barry Wolk]

Barry, I meant to ask you about that. I think I remember you saying something about taking the front end apart in order to get the engine and trans out. I was reading about engine removal in the technical manual last night and I don't remember it saying anything about the front coming off. They talk about pulling only the engine and then the engine and trans.

But as far at my steering box goes it's a lot bigger deal than I would have expected. Just goes to show how critical the assembly sequence must have been for those cars.

Yes, the engine can be pulled out if disconnected from the transmission, but because it sits on top of the frame the radiator and support need to come out for better access. A few more bolts and the grill is out of the way.

Many have tried reinstalling the trans first and then mating the engine to it. This is not recommended procedure. In order to get the engine and trans in with a far less chance of damage, remove the hood and front end bits beforehand.

[Chuck Lutz]

Sounds like solid wisdom speaking. Ounce of prevention, perhaps?

[Barry Wolk]

You have to remember that the service manual was printed before the car was released. It has no updates. It does not impart the knowledge gained from actually working on real world problems. That's why this site's so important.

[depmike38]

Would McMaster-Carr also be able to provide the output shaft bushing as well as the seal. A great deal of time on a heavy vehicle the side load on the shaft will wear the bushing causing the leak and if that's the case the seal will still leak even if new.

[Barry Wolk]

NAPA might.

[depmike38]

They(NAPA) used to have everything but as the old counter guys that had all the parts in their head and actually had worked on cars have gone away all the new ones seem to be able to do is punch buttons on a computer. Worth a try though.

[Barry Wolk]

I've got an awesome NAPA guy. I'll see if they have a toll-free number.

[Mad Scientist]

While possible I would not expect a worn bushing. It spends all its time running in oil and with a leaky seal even more so.

Although once you have removed the pitman are it would be easy to feel if there is any side play.

[depmike38]

Only reason it came to mind is I had it happen in truck with this type steering box once. We put in a seal and it kept leaking so we pulled it and the bushing had "egged" slightly from the vehicle weight pushing against the steering linkage. Something I just thought of while typing, does the seal go in externally? If so one might be able to pull the pitman arm and pull the seal out over the shaft without removing the sector at all.

[Mad Scientist]

If so one might be able to pull the pitman arm and pull the seal out over the shaft without removing the sector at all.
Yes if you could get the old seal out. But it is a press fit and it is recessed pretty deep with little room between the shaft and the diameter of the mounting hole.

[depmike38]

Didn't realize it wasn't a flush fit. That's always the problem the, designers don't really make things for the mechanics.

[Mad Scientist]

So very true. Unfortunately the more you work on the MKII the more you will realize that Ford’s engineers have developed this into a high art form. :D:rolleyes:

[Nick DeSpirito]

I've got to address the amounts of PS fluid pouring out of the end of the gear box down at the arm. I have no issue with replacing the entire gear box but not sure if the entire steering column has to come out or if it can be simply disconnected from the column shaft. Any one have words of wisdom about where I begin?

Chuck,

Have you tried replacing the Pittman shaft seal? Mine was leaking there once and a new seal did the trick.

[Barry Wolk]

That seal looks like it's easy to replace. The sector shaft seal isn't.

[Chuck Lutz]

Funny you should bring that up. I was looking at it again yesterday following the sequence in the technical manual about removing the steering wheel, the #7plugs and the exhaust manifold in order to remove the gear box. Ugh!. The question then popped into my head that perhaps that pitman seal could be changed from below without having to remove the gearbox as it does seem to be leaking from there. Can this be done without removing the whole assembly?

[Barry Wolk]

Absolutely. There is a removable casting that contains the seal. Remove the arm and remove the casting. You may have to make a new gasket, but this is an easy fix.

[Chuck Lutz]

Great! I'm on it. That would be perfect. To fix this leak without having to rip out the box. Thanks.

[Barry Wolk]

I'm thinking about scanning the whole section on the steering box. Anyone interested?

[Nick DeSpirito]

Chuck,

When I replaced my Pittman arm seal, Lowell Domholt gave me a part number of a seal that was compatible and available. I then had a transmission shop install it. The job didn't take that long either. Call Lowell and he will give it to you if you can't find one.

PS: They put it on a lift and accessed it by removing the Pittman arm.

[Nick DeSpirito]

I'm thinking about scanning the whole section on the steering box. Anyone interested?

Barry, that's a good idea. Can you explain how you took out the excess play in the steering on your car too?

[Mad Scientist]

There is an adjusting screw on the top of the gear box. Loosen the jam nut and tighten screw with wheels points straight just enough to eliminate play.

Obviously this will not cure worn ball joints and tie rod ends.

[Barry Wolk]

I got ripped a new one for suggesting this on the Lincoln forum.

http://www.thelincolnforum.net/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=27880&st=0&sk=t&sd=a

[depmike38]

Not sure why Dan has such a problem with a slight adjustment to the sector. If all you do is make incremental adjustments to the box it's not going to adversely affect it. I've had to do it at some point to almost every old car I've ever owned. Some of them could have been delivered new with the box too loose.

[Mad Scientist]

I got ripped a new one for suggesting this on the Lincoln forum.
:D


It is my opinion that if the design engineers were worried that it might be miss-adjusted then they would have made it non-adjustable. Anyway I have adjusted many of these, all without the horrors mentioned.

Now obviously you must use a little common sense, the goal here is to just get rid of excessive play not to see how tight you can get the screw.

With the wheels in the straight ahead position there should be no play and little if any drag. However with the wheels turned there should be some play. If you don’t feel this your way too tight and then yes things might start breaking.

[Barry Wolk]

I feel validated, thank you.

[Don Henschel]

I got ripped a new one for suggesting this on the Lincoln forum.

http://www.thelincolnforum.net/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=27880&st=0&sk=t&sd=a

I too have adjusted that "screw" on other makes and models with very good results! If the wheel has a bit of play I was able to tweak it out. If the box is totally worn out and the wheel rotates side to side a great deal then I could see replacing the entire steering gear! A friend of mine was quoted $500.00 for a sloppy steering wheel on his 2004 Dodge truck involving replacement of the steering gear. Fifteen minutes later he had a smile on his face and a tighter wheel after I "tweaked it". That was many months and miles ago and still all's well. I guess I need a new one ripped as well! Barry, I bet yours is still working OK:D (the steering gear that is).

[Barry Wolk]

You bet'cha!:D

[Chuck Lutz]

After laboring more on the decision than the fix the old steering gear came out today. We tried unsuccessfully to leave the gear in place and only repack the shaft from under the car. Once the nut and arm were removed a few of the seals were easy to remove but deeper in parts were seized which seemed to indicate strongly, that the shaft might be worn and scored.
The last thing I wanted was to do all this work and ultimately remove the steering gear box and duct tape it together with replacement parts only to find that the leak continued. We decided to "man-up" and just remove and replace it with a re-built.
Yes, the exhaust manifold had to come off but that wasn't as spooky as I suspected. The rebuilt will arrive tomorrow. It was somewhat traumatic to see all the parts removed but I'm excited about this fix. Along with this fix, new exhaust and electronic ignition will be complete. I like the anticipation :)

[Shelly Harris]

Finally got around to try this tip to get an inch or so of slop out of the steering wheel. Tightened up the bolt about a half turn and it worked nicely. Now the downside.... the bolt never had a leak until I did this. No matter how nicely I snugged down the lock nut I had one heck of a leak. I read back through the old posts and noted that Barry mentions using a "crush washer". Lowes didn't have any but i did get a rubber washer that fit snugly aroung the 7/16x20 adjusting bolt. For now that's the fix.. I hope it holds.

[Shelly Harris]

More..... I thought I had tightened up the steering, but I was wrong. Drove the car into the city and it was actually a bit more sloppy. Maybe I turned the bolt in the wrong direcstion (clockwise).... I'll take it in the opposite direction and see what happens. Meanwhile the washer is holding.

[Nick DeSpirito]

After laboring more on the decision than the fix the old steering gear came out today. We tried unsuccessfully to leave the gear in place and only repack the shaft from under the car. Once the nut and arm were removed a few of the seals were easy to remove but deeper in parts were seized which seemed to indicate strongly, that the shaft might be worn and scored.
The last thing I wanted was to do all this work and ultimately remove the steering gear box and duct tape it together with replacement parts only to find that the leak continued. We decided to "man-up" and just remove and replace it with a re-built.
Yes, the exhaust manifold had to come off but that wasn't as spooky as I suspected. The rebuilt will arrive tomorrow. It was somewhat traumatic to see all the parts removed but I'm excited about this fix. Along with this fix, new exhaust and electronic ignition will be complete. I like the anticipation :)

Chuck,

Have you installed the rebuilt box yet? If so, how's the steering now?

[Mad Scientist]

More..... I thought I had tightened up the steering, but I was wrong. Drove the car into the city and it was actually a bit more sloppy. Maybe I turned the bolt in the wrong direcstion (clockwise).... I'll take it in the opposite direction and see what happens. Meanwhile the washer is holding.

With the front wheels point straight ahead adjust the screw until a slight rocking back and forth of the steering wheel causes the front tire to just start to turn. The engine need not be running.

[Shelly Harris]

With the front wheels point straight ahead adjust the screw until a slight rocking back and forth of the steering wheel causes the front tire to just start to turn. The engine need not be running.


That helps, thanks. Hope I can get to it on Saturday.

[Barry Wolk]

You will want to turn the screw clockwise. That will move the beveled sector shaft further into the beveled gear that receives it. I had to adjust mine a couple of times because a burr forms on the gears that will wear off as you use the steering box.

I don't believe your rubber seal will hold up as the steering box gets very hot from the fluid and the proximity to the exhaust manifold.

Crush washers are made of malleable copper that will spread out, sealing the threads of the stud. That's where the fluid is coming from.

http://www.lrseries.com/resources/user/99082b8d79d2ecb57fed799df484be83b8acf318/232042-COPPER-CRUSH-WASHER.jpg

[Don Henschel]

Don't get too greedy with the adjustment or your steering will become stiff and bind. Barry is correct turning the screw in reduces the backlash on the gears. It's better to leave a tiny bit of play than too tight. Check and rock your wheel often making small adjustments. Also get somebody to rock your wheel and look at the the steering bearings (tie rod ends, pitman arm and idler arm) very closly for play.

[depmike38]

Something I've always found helpful in finding steering play is to pull the car up to something like those stops you find in a parking lot and pull the tires up tight so that they would be difficult to turn. Have a helper sit in the car and just slightly rock the steering wheel back and forth. If you feel of the steering linkage one joint at a time you can literally feel the movement in your hand.(Take some surgical-type gloves) This only helps with the steering not the ball joints.

[Don Henschel]

Those worn joints often fool the owner into blaming the steering gear for play. Don't forget the idler arm as well. It will move up and down excessivly if worn out.

[Chuck Lutz]

Chuck,

Have you installed the rebuilt box yet? If so, how's the steering now?

Yes, the rebuilt went in fine and no leaks. I had adjusted the old leaking box to improve the play (marginally) but while driving the car the other day I was thinking that the rebuilt seems about the same as the old one with regard to play. I don't think you'll ever get all the play out but I'm going to give the new box a half turn or so and see how that works.
I think it's important to note that some of this "play" could be coming from the ball joints and steering linkage too. I really want to look at the pitman arm with someone moving the steering wheel to sense how much (or little) play there really is.

[Shelly Harris]

I backed off the screw about 3/4 turn and the steering is much better. You just can't assume that tightening it up is best. What I really have to do is get the steering linkage items examined and if their ok make sure the alighnment is ok

[Barry Wolk]

I think I know what happened. The gears wear against each other raising a lip as the adjustment screw held them in that position. Making the adjustment probably let those two wear marks passing each other making the unused section of the sector shaft gear make much better contact with the other gear, making it stick.

Did you find a crush washer?

[Shelly Harris]

I bought the crush washer but haven't used it because of these trials and the rubber one is holding...but once the trials are over I'll be using it.

[Barry Wolk]

Good idea.