leaking steering pump

[Keith W Colonna]

Group,
I am having chronic problems with a leak between the pump and the resevoir.
I have gotten the rebuild kit and had everything competently rebuilt...still leaks. I have also gotten a rebuilt replacement which leaks in the same place.
We've reseated the O-rings, etc. Next step is to try to use some aviation glue on the O-Rings. Every precaution has been taken not to overtighten or distort the reservolir housing. Also confirmed is the source of the leak...it's not a loose cover, etc. Suggestions or sources??

[Barry Wolk]

You might have a hairline crack in the reservoir or pump housing. You can have both magnafluxed to find the crack. It doesn't take much of a crack to leak like crazy, especially if there's a crack in the pressure section of the pump.

[vancec]

My power steering fluid is leaking at a rapid rate. I removed the radiator and water pump to be rebuilt and then the driver's side exhaust manifold to access the power steering unit. Hoping to see an easy problem it seems the fluid is leaking not from a damaged or loose hose but from a seal. Do these pictures tell you what the problem might be? I am really not mechanical so I am desperate to find a solution I can implement myself. Does the power steering unit need to be removed? The manual seems to indicate that would be a monstrous job. From the steering wheel, dash and forward. Is there a way to replace parts from a donor car to avoid this? Any help appreciated.

[Barry Wolk]

Due to the fact that the whole steering box is wet the fluid might be coming from the top seals or the adjustment screw.

Personally, I wouldn't be fixing any leaks until you use the car for awhile. My car leaked everything because of lack of use. Once that trans fluid gets hot it will swell the seals and sometimes completely stop the leak.

You can use a transmission leak sealer, which basically swells the seals faster than just using the car. In this case, use it, or lose it.

[SLK]

Vance, join the club. The leak is at the seal but it can be replaced without removing the pump. Search the forums and order the kit. You might want to leave off the ps belt and have someone do the job for you when the car is on a lift.

[Barry Wolk]

I thought Mad tried to replace the seal while the box was in the car and couldn't.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Usually, the pitman shaft seal can be replaced with the steering box in place. The shop manual does not say that way and, I notice Friday that the available space to get at the steering box is rather tight.

[Nick DeSpirito]

If it's the Pitman shaft seal, it can be done from underneath while the car is on a lift.

Pat, can you get the replacement seal number from Lowell and post it? I got it from him years ago when mine was leaking, but didn't write it down.

I took my car and the replacement seal to a transmission shop and they did the replacement in less than an hour.

[Shelly Harris]

According to the Tech Manual you must remove the steering gear box to replace the seal at the Pitman arm. It is great news that it can be done from underneath w/o removing the gear box, as removing the gear box is a project in itself.

I too had a leak but it was coming from the fittings on the hydrlic hoses. I had them removed and brought them to a hydralic repair facility and both were refurbished for $100. Unfortunately after re-installing one end still leaked bad and the mechanic was able to tighten it up.

It's vital to make sure you are certain as to from where the leak is coming.

[Mad Scientist]

I thought Mad tried to replace the seal while the box was in the car and couldn't.

Yes it can be and I did it. Of course I had the engine out at the time which gave me lots of working room. But if you have the exhaust manifold off that is all you really need.

First you will need to go underneath and remove the pitman arm from the gear box, as I recall I left the other end attached to the rest of the steering linkage. Next remove the five bolts holding the cover onto the gear box, do not touch the screw in the center with the lock nut. This is for adjusting the backlash in the steering gear. You should now be able to remove the cover and pull the steering gears shaft straight out, particularly if the exhaust manifold is not in the way. Note the position of the gear for reassembly.

Now going back under the car you can now see that there is a snap ring in the shafts hole. Remove it. Behind it is a thin metal washer followed by a felt(?) washer and another metal washer, remove them. Above that is your leaky seal, stuck in place. To remove it take a 12-18’ long (metal or wood) rod about ¼” diameter and coming in from the top beat the seal out.

Get new seal from any of the usual sources, I just measured the old seal and bought a generic one from McMaster-Carr. Reinstall in reverse order. Note make sure seal goes in the right way so it will seal when pressure is applied.

[AU_MK2]

Hi Guys
I did trans and steering rebuilds for a number of years and we were (in most cases) able to remove and replace the shaft seals in the car even with the shaft in place .
The only thing is that if that seal has gone hard with age you can bet that the others are not far behind, so you may end up chasing one leak after another.
I'd try some seal conditioner first and see what happens failing that I'd look at doing all the seals due to the pressure in the steering system.

[vancec]

Wow, I didn't think I had any responses till I just checked. Thanks you guys!!
It does appear that's where the leak is and so maybe this ain't the end of the world. Looking at the pics I posted, doesn't it look like the pitman arm is not snugged up all the way or that some spacer is missing??

[vancec]

OK, I went ahead and ordered the seals from Mark II Enterprises so in a couple days I'll be ready to start. Jack wasn't too encouraging about the longevity of this fix, however. But I am certainly willing to try anything to avoid removing the gear. Wish me luck.

[AU_MK2]

Don't be too stressed about it Vance
As far as the pitman arm goes it's on a taper so it will only pull up so far
To remove the arm you're going to need a puller because of the taper

Good luck

[Don Henschel]

Like Barry mentioned it could be coming from up above but of course the fan and wind could have blown it up there. I would use a pressure washer first and clean the whole steering gear and surrounding area. If it is your pitman shaft seal, the mechanic replacing it will thank you for cleaning the dirt away first.

[vancec]

Oh boy. Taking the power steering pump off exposed another problem. The reservoir has an old soldered repair that's come undone. Now I guess I need to find someone to solder or weld it or find a used one. Anybody have one?

[Mad Scientist]

Re-soldering or preferably brazing it is the perfect fix. Simple quick and cheep, just be wash out all the old fluid first.

[2MarkIIs]

Mine leaks as well, pretty bad. Mine leaks out of the pitman arm seal as well and it also leaks fluid out of the top lid of the power steering pump, its tight so im guessing that seal on the inside needs to be replaced. My power steering needs some major help so i need to do a lot of work on it.

[lincoln mark]

I have already done what I am about to tell you, and it has worked for me. On tri-axle trucks they have slave cyl assisted steering on the passenger side. When they spring a large leak, most people replace them at a cost of $1800.00. I fill the reservoir with Lucas Power Steering Repair Fluid. If that does not stop it, then I add Lucas Tranmission Repair fluid. I have done this to 2 Marks and 3 tri-axels. Has stopped all leaks after driving them a few times. I also added some to a transmission and stopped a torq conv leak. Good stuff. Mark A Maromonte.

[Don Keller]

Hi Mark,

I may be out of line as this may be considered a change of topic...hope not as I think I'm on probation. My transmission is leaking profusely. I've been debating as to whether to try stop leak. The transmission is supposed to be good and works well, the fluid just drips out totally when it sits and it apparently has dried out seals as it has sat for most of it's life. My mechanic said that it might gum up the works. Considering that the alternative is to have the engine pulled and the seals replaced, it seems to be worth a try, particularly considering your success. I assume that the Mark transmissions have held up okay since?

Thanks.
Don Keller
C56R3838
Jackson, TN