Re-installing under dash components

[vancec]

I am hoping someone can give me the sequence of installation at my current point of replacing the underdash parts. I didn't remove them so I am flying blind, but getting close. I am working left to right and at the point of having to install the center console, speaker housing and then glove box. Who can tell me what goes together first; speaker grill into housing, then... etc.

So far I have replaced the vinyl on the dash, plexiglass on the instrument cluster, light switch and radio area, repainted and reinstalled all the underdash parts except the above. I have all the interior and carpet left to do but stuck here. What's next?

[Mad Scientist]

Going from memory, which might be slightly flawed.
1. install radio if not already in place.
2. install carpet over transmission tunnel.
3. make sure all control cables work smoothly.
4. are any of the control panel light burned out? As now would be a real good time to replace them.
5. mount radio speaker and grill if not already in place.
6. casually place console into place by applying a sufficient quantity of four letter words. As I recall there is a tab on the top of the transmission tunnel that the console needs to lifted up and over, I believe (?) that there were a couple mounting screws in it to hold the bottom of the console in place.
7. install three (?) screws to mount top of console to dash.
8. reach through access hole on drivers side and find the wire coming from the speaker and blindly fumble around the back of the radio to find the socket that it plugs into. Oh and you did remember to replace that speaker wire otherwise you will probably notice that its insulation is crumbling in your hand.:( Also don't forget to connect the wire from the rear speaker.
9. plug the radio's two power leads into their correct harness wires. You did mark them, right.:)
10. put the side access cover on.
11. take a break and go do something else for awhile.:)

[vancec]

Great info, thank you.
So it's time to install the carpet now, eh?
I guess I know what I'll be doing over my next hundred weekends.

[Joseph Stebbins]

OK now the Heater core has spiraled into Glove Box Spring installation then to radio removal for restore then to remove the plastic you broke so disassemble the lower dash...

SO - while I have the dash in a gazillion pieces I am going to replace the vacuum hoses lube the cables and replace any bulb I find (anyone use the new LED replacement bulbs?) Any other suggestions for things I should do/check while I am working on my under-dash-yoga merit badge?

[Matt Cashion]

I seem to recall in another post someone tried LED bulbs but the extra load they put on the dimmer caused it to burn out. Have fun---:)

[richroni]

If you only hear static from the radio, go back and connect the antenna (step 9a):D

[Joseph Stebbins]

If you only hear static from the radio, go back and connect the antenna (step 9a):D

Yeah I noticed that the radio is the size of a small breadbox but they put all the connections on opposing sides from the access panel - what's with that!

[Mad Scientist]

I seem to recall in another post someone tried LED bulbs but the extra load they put on the dimmer caused it to burn out. Have fun---:)
Using LED's should actually reduce the power. But finding an LED with a bayonet base could be a challenge.

Using LED's for the turn signals will not work because they will not draw enough current to operated the flasher. A different flasher would be required. Also they probably will not be as bright as the standard lamp.

[Mad Scientist]

Yeah I noticed that the radio is the size of a small breadbox but they put all the connections on opposing sides from the access panel - what's with that!
That is to test your dexterity. :D
Have you checked out the location where the speaker wires plug into the radio? You wouldn't be able to see them, but if you run you hand along the back of the radio you will be able to feel them. Oh by the way they are polarized so they go in one way.

[Joseph Stebbins]

That is to test your dexterity. :D
Have you checked out the location where the speaker wires plug into the radio? You wouldn't be able to see them, but if you run you hand along the back of the radio you will be able to feel them. Oh by the way they are polarized so they go in one way.

Ok given the polarization WHEN I replace the cracked up stuff resembling speaker wire which pin is which and is there a modern speaker that will fit that the original radio will drive?

[Sean Rollins]

Modern speakers will work. If you can, find out the number of ohms impedence the radio was made to use. Usually four or eight. Im not sure why it matters, but it does...
The rear speaker is a 6x9 , but the front is a 5x7 which you will need to order in probably.
If you are to replace the origional wiring, why not hook up everything before installation, then run the new wires and terminate them at the speakers where you can see what you are doing.

[Joseph Stebbins]

Modern speakers will work. If you can, find out the number of ohms impedence the radio was made to use. Usually four or eight. Im not sure why it matters, but it does...
The rear speaker is a 6x9 , but the front is a 5x7 which you will need to order in probably.
If you are to replace the origional wiring, why not hook up everything before installation, then run the new wires and terminate them at the speakers where you can see what you are doing.

The front speaker is the Ford original and amazingly it is dirty but still good! Not that I am going to use it but the cone is fine and the voice coil still works it will look good on the shelf!

Thats a great idea I am just paranoid about a 60 year old radio I am going to send off for repair - I had a 15 second dream of replacing all the capacitors myself that turned quickly into a nightmare of what have you gotten yourself into - after a water pump turned into half the car apart!

On that note i found a rust spot on top of the radio and traced it to the spot where the center windshield garnish molding clip is SUPPOSED to be. Can the center section of trim be removed by itself or do I need to start at the drivers mirror and work around. I really do not want to touch the windshield wiper mechanism.

[Mad Scientist]

Yes any modern speaker should work, considering the era when it was made it is probably an 8 ohm. In this case 8 or 4 ohm will not make much difference, maybe a slight difference in volume but doubt you would not notice it.
Biggest problem could be the location of the mounting holes.

If you replace this speaker you will need to correctly reconnect the wires to it. Note that the connector on the original has one large and one small pin. Momentarily connect a flashlight battery across these pins, put positive terminal to the large one and the negative to the smaller and note the direction the cone moves when you apply power. The new speaker should move in the same direction, if not reverse the wires at the speaker.

If these wire are backwards it will not harm anything but some say it affects the sound quality.

If the speaker wire from the rear speaker is like mine it will crumble in your hand when you touch it. At the point where it breaks out of the wiring harness I firmly taped a inch or so to the harness to prevent further crumbling. I then replaced the length of wire from there to the connector. Like the front speaker this connector has one large and one small pin. You will want to keep the wire going to each of its pins going to the same pin. Also it you make the length of your new wire a foot or so longer then original it will be easier to plug it into the radio before it is completely mounted.

As far as replacing the capacitors in the radio it doable but it is not for the squeamish. The in the main part of the radio this is not a problem. However there are two or three, I forget, hidden inside the chrome front bezel. Removing this bezel to get at them causes the button assembly to fall into a zillion pieces. Also hidden in there are the panel lamps for the dial. These you would want to replace just on general principles as once the radio is back in the car the very last thing you will ever want to do is to have to go back just to replace a burned out light bulb.

[Joseph Stebbins]

If the speaker wire from the rear speaker is like mine it will crumble in your hand when you touch it.

Oh yes it was serious toast. I will solder and heat shrink some new leads for the speaker. I trust there in not enough voltage to worry about a fire given the condition of the insulation.

As far as replacing the capacitors in the radio it doable but it is not for the squeamish. The in the main part of the radio this is not a problem. However there are two or three, I forget, hidden inside the chrome front bezel. Removing this bezel to get at them causes the button assembly to fall into a zillion pieces. Also hidden in there are the panel lamps for the dial. These you would want to replace just on general principles as once the radio is back in the car the very last thing you will ever want to do is to have to go back just to replace a burned out light bulb.

I sent the above to Rene at South Texas Antique Electronics - Thanks!

[Matt Cashion]

Mad's right for sure!! It may have been halogen bulbs that drew more than the dimmer could handle when turned down to an acceptable brightness. Duhh!! :rolleyes:

[richroni]

I would opine that, like Mad, the radio's output impedance is not critical for a vacuum tube output. It's just a matter of efficiency. Cancel that if you have a conversion radio with a transister output. And neither is matching the front/rear speaker wires. That would be important if you had a stereo system for proper phasing of the channels.

[Joseph Stebbins]

I would opine that, like Mad, the radio's output impedance is not critical for a vacuum tube output. It's just a matter of efficiency. Cancel that if you have a conversion radio with a transister output. And neither is matching the front/rear speaker wires. That would be important if you had a stereo system for proper phasing of the channels.

I am having the original restored and an Audio input added as the AM choices are diminishing to talking heads, evangelical stations and Latin programing. I want to keep the tubes just so I can say hold on a bit while she warms up.

Of course this is coming from a guy who has a Bang and Olufsen Beomaster 1900 for his home stereo... a beautiful piece of equipment and it hooks up to the iPod.

[Shelly Harris]

Here's the under dash way to listen to AM-FM-FM HD-- CDs- Aux (for your Ipod) and the radio was on sale for $89. I use the original front speaker for the left channel and the rear deck speaker for the right channel. Oh and it has a wireless remote so I don't have to lean over and push buttons.

http://www.markiiforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1153&d=1278987306

[Bob Barger]

That is to test your dexterity. :D
Have you checked out the location where the speaker wires plug into the radio? You wouldn't be able to see them, but if you run you hand along the back of the radio you will be able to feel them. Oh by the way they are polarized so they go in one way.

For ease of installation I attached 8 inch pig-tails of wire to both power and speaker and added a plug. This will eliminate the reaching and cuts and scrapes that go along with that.

[Bob Barger]

I noticed the access panel on the drivers side is in place. Remove it and replace it last in the process. The tab on the bottom of the console attaches to a tab on the tunnel, It butts up against the tunnel tab and is attached with 2 screws. You probably know there are 4 10/32 screw holes on the firewall that hold the back ot the console to the firewall. One suggestion I have, there is an oval shaped hole on the passenger side top of the console where the stop for the glove box passes through. I cut this into a slot so that the glove box and framework can be installed without having to remove the console. It's a small thing but can save a lot of work down the installation road. I did the same with the hole in the passenger side kick panel. As noted before, make sure all the levers in the hcav panel work before you put it together. If you have to go back after to fix something you are looking at a lot of work. I assembled everything in the console, except for the access panel with the console on the floor as close to the dash as possible. Working it into place from there is a pain in the butt and you have to be very careful not to scratch the paint. Just take your time and be careful. I think I have pictures of the slots I cut if you want, I will post them.

[Joseph Stebbins]

Working it into place from there is a pain in the butt and you have to be very careful not to scratch the paint. Just take your time and be careful. I think I have pictures of the slots I cut if you want, I will post them.

I'd like the pictures of the slots for sure - I don't want to modify anything wrong as I can only imagine how much the console costs! As it is I have to have the passenger side cleaned up by a body man as the last time someone had it apart they put a small dent in the passenger side of the console and since it is out I want to get it cleaned up. I am waiting on a larger sample of the leather so I can match the paint anyway.

[Joseph Stebbins]

I noticed while I was polishing the reflective area the bulbs fit into that there is a spot for an additional device/accessory nearest to the column in the retainer (by the curved end in top of the photo.) Does anyone know if there was an accessory there and if so, what?

[Bob Barger]

I noticed while I was polishing the reflective area the bulbs fit into that there is a spot for an additional device/accessory nearest to the column in the retainer (by the curved end in top of the photo.) Does anyone know if there was an accessory there and if so, what?

That one is for the wiper switch, next is the lighter, ignition switch, radio off/on-volume. I will dig up the pictures, I did the same on the passenger side kick panel as the other glove box stop goes through it. This is a small un-noticable modification but it will make the glove box assembly much easier to install/remove. When you get to that point I will explain why.

[Joseph Stebbins]

Actually the hole is only in the backing plate between the windshield wiper switch and the steering column. The metal decorative plate and plastic have no hole. I was wondering if there was some Option that had a switch or other some such.

Also I now have the whole under dash out and spent the afternoon pulling the steering tube since it was a fairly simple item to remove and I might as well paint the whole lot while I am waiting for the new plastic to come in. I am also going to clean and repaint the defrost blend boxes while I am there.

I started to trace out the vacuum tubing to replace and I found the tee for the windshield washer but no hose to it and despite some serious yoga moves I could not find the connections for the washer. Is it buried behind the defroster vents? I can see the sprayers on the sides of the wiper cams but not a place for the connection under dash... Anyone got a pic?

[Bob Barger]

Here are the pictures of the slots I cut in the console/kick panel. If you do this you can install the console, then the glove box complete with the 3 mounting brackets, then the kick panel in that order. It makes the whole installation much simpler.

[Joseph Stebbins]

OK despite the general pain of taking all the stuff apart I have to say the instant gratification of replacing the plastic inserts for the dash controls was definitely worth the $55.00 for the parts.

Also the foam rubber gasket at the fire will for the steering column seems to be one of those "don't make it" kind of parts. Has anyone found a supplier or found something you can modify? I was thinking of cutting one from Armorflex insulation but I haven't thought of a way to make the angled hole in the doughnut neatly yet.

[Sean Rollins]

I can't remember who needed this, but I made notes on the wiring under the dash for the steering column.


Neutral safety switch


wire on terminal ------- wire on terminal

red spade ------------ black w/ red band

red spade--------------black w/ red band

note:black wire slips over mounting bolt on right hand side


Column wires to block:

Blue end/ red wire---- green/ green----spare lug---- White end/ green wire

red end/ green wire--white end/ blue wire---spare lug---blue end/ white wire


Loose wires from column. Horn???

blue/ blue to blue/ blue

blue/ black to red/ blue

God I hope my notes are accurate!:o