56 Mark II carburetion

[depmike38]

Would there be an advantage to having a larger carburetor on the Mark's engine. According to data I've located the 56 uses a 390cfm and the 57 uses a 408cfm. As I have to buy one I've noticed that using the table on Pony carb's website shows it to need one around 440cfm. Can the teapot be built "bigger" or to do it would you have to go to another type?

[Barry Wolk]

The CFM is based on the size of the ports. You'd have to bore out the ports and change the size of the butterfly valves.

Frankly, after doing the Pertronix ignition with hot wires and coil, my Mark II is plenty fast. I think you'll be more than pleased with performance once you've got it running right. Bigger is not always better.:D

[depmike38]

Sounds good to me. Thanks

[Barry Wolk]

I think the increased compression ratio was responsible for the higher horsepower, but I'm sure that a higher CFM helped. It's all about moving air.

[Shelly Harris]

I recall reading somewhere that the increased hp for the '57s can be attributed to the carb and the porting of the intake manifold. I know with motorcycles having a carb, you can get that result by merely porting the intake manifold, which on a m/c is easy and cheap and because of the bike's light weight is a big bang for the buck. So on a Mark II only changing or modifying the teapot would not be the answer --- you'd have to work on the manifold. After that, remember your car weighs 2.5 tons and the increase achieved is going to be hard to notice.

[Mad Scientist]

Bigger is not always better.:D

Most definitely. Going too big will hurt low speed drive ability and economy.

[depmike38]

Thank's Don, I'm hoping not to have to pull mine as none of the usual spots (NAPA,Advance,O'Reilly's,etc) have any idea what a 368 is much less have any parts available. One thing though, years ago I was tearing down a 460 to re-build it and the first three nuts I tried to take loose snapped off the studs::o(I was using hand tools). An older and wiser wrench puller than I proceeded to spin the rest off with an impact and didn't damage another. He told me that the impact hits so much faster it will break the threads loose before the stud/bolt can twist and shear. All I can say is I've never broken another. No guarantees but it works for me. Mike:D

[depmike38]

Ok as an addition to the previous post the carburetor has returned from Pony and I'd have to say it's outward appearance is impressive but unfortunately I have to wait til next weekend to install it. As I mentioned in the earlier post I may have to pull the intake to repair the choke tube. Does anyone know where I might find a top end set for the engine. I can find whole sets(even from J.C.Whitney) but I don't need all the extra gaskets and would end up with a broken set. Any ideas?

[depmike38]

Got the teapot back from Pony and installed it late yesterday. Thus far it lives up to the cost. Primed it and it started quickly and smoothly without choke (haven't got that completely addressed yet) and the motor idles very well on kind of skunky fuel. I think I remember someone saying the tanks have a drain in them so I'm going to check that out this week. I found out the exhaust valve on the back of the passenger side manifold is jammed and the coil spring is gone so I have to take care of that as well as the intake manifold heat riser tube. It is making exhaust out the right side so it must be open. Next up is to get it to the shop and up on the lift so I can start checking the things out. Getting closer, soon as it's outside(and it stops raining here) photo's to follow.:D:D

[Chuck Lutz]

Easy cowboy.. why would you put on the new carb with the potential of skunky fuel. No offense but first things first. :D

[Don Henschel]

Easy cowboy.. why would you put on the new carb with the potential of skunky fuel. No offense but first things first. :D

Like taking a bath and putting your dirty underwear back on:D Drain plug is on the front passenger side of tank;)

[depmike38]

:oDidn't mean to but according to what I was told it had fresh fuel in it two months ago plus an additive(probably sta-bil) to help protect it. It started fine but it just smells odd so I'm going to dump it again as I don't think any additive could change the smell of gasoline. When they backed it in there was room to work on it but now it's semi-trapped by a 42 Continental and a wall so it'll have to pull itself out. Thanks for the plug location!

[Barry Wolk]

If you strip the drain plug you can easily remove the sending unit for a visual inspection and gain the ability to siphon the sediments and rust out of the tank. Just don't use a lighter to look inside!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[depmike38]

It would be an enlightening experience! But seriously can the sender be removed without dropping the tank and is there a source for a new one (sender) if needed?

[Barry Wolk]

Yes, there is an access hatch in the trunk. Be careful not to use screws that are too long to reinstall it. The restorer that did my car distorted the sender frame, making it leak with as little as 1/2 a tank, the distortion was so bad.

I'm sure you can easily adapt another Ford sender if that one doesn't work.

[Chuck Lutz]

There's a tank w/ sender on Ebay now if anyone's interested.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GAS-TANK-1956-LINCOLN-CONTINENTAL-MARK-II_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhas hZitem35a3b663f3QQitemZ230379906035QQptZMotorsQ5fC arQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

[depmike38]

Ford at one time was pretty good about having a lot of the mechanical parts interchange between cars. I'm hoping to get it out and moved this weekend if the weather cooperates. I just don't know about the brakes yet so I may just haul it. As to the sender frame you must have been blessed with one of those guys that constantly looks for new uses for a flat screwdriver.